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re: Planetary Imaging Equipment advice


Tyson M

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Hi all,

I just wanted to say again I appreciate this community for all of its helpful advice and forums. 

I have been visually observing for almost a year, still very new to the hobby but my main plan was imaging all along. 

I finally have the right set up I am happy with. I would like to image Jupiter at opposition (or close after) to start learning. Then tackle Mars, Venus, Saturn in no particular order (perhaps order of oppositions). Short vid captures is all I can do without guiding with the EQ5 I think anyways.

There are plenty of tutorials online which is nice, but my questions are regarding equipment for imaging or general advice.

I have a SW Equinox 100mm, and an EQ5 (skyview pro) mount. Vibration suppressing pads, Baader UV/IR filter. Tele vue 2x barlow and various EP's. I want to buy the 4x or 5x powermate too.

I think I will buy the ASI224 (it is called the ASI120MS-C here I believe)

If I wanted to image Jupiter/other planets well, what would be the minimum for a laptop I should look at? 8 GB of RAM? Or could I get away with a 4GB of ram?  Would a refurbished 4GB laptop solely used for astroimaging work or would it frustrate the heck out of me. 

What is the noticeable difference with USB2.0 and 3.0? I assume this would relate to RAM of a laptop and capturing frames at high speed which I will be doing?

Will I need external storage capacity or any extra equipment that I haven't listed? I don't think I will because I am not doing long exposure.

Things like a focal reducer made for this Equinox?  I don't think I would need one as I would barlow or even use a powermate to extended focal length. Until I wanted to image the sun close to full disk which would be in the future.

Also, batteries. I don't think I want the powerpacks because I heard they don't last long. I need one that can run the camera + laptop and the GOTO. I have no problem with learning how to build modified deep cycle marine battery box, I think it would be a fun project but I am worried about overdoing it.  I would like to keep it somewhat portable. Any suggestions?

Sorry for the thousand questions all over the place! I have a plan mapped out for all of this, but chances are I am probably wrong, hence why I am reaching out.

 Thanks for reading

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If you are doing planetary imaging with a USB3 camera it is a very good idea to use a laptop with USB3 ports otherwise you will be limited to the USB2 transfer speed which will limit your frame rates.

Storage is also important, a fast SSD is best but you will need quote a lot of space. If you get external storage try and make it SATA or if not possible USB3. Write speed to your storage device can cause a bottle neck if you aren't careful. If your imaging laptop has a good size internal SSD you could use that then transfer to external storage after capture.

Are you imaging from a dark site? If you are at home you could always set up a mains supply.

Certainly you don't want to use a reducer for planetary or you will get no detail.

I think your mount should be capable of shortish unguided subs if you polar align correctly.

Using the asi camera you suggest you could use PHD2 to drift align the scope.

Good alignment will help for planetary too as it will keep the planet centred on the sensor for longer.

/Dan

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Thanks for your replies!

I will not be imaging at home under any circumstances unfortunately. Always a drive, to in town or dark site ( a longer drive). 

I will have to learn this drift align and using PHD2.

And I will look for refurbished laptops with those specs. Thanks for your help! 

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Well, if you are planetary imaging then messing with drift alignment is not necessary. The polarscope will be fine. A bit of drift in the FoV is desirable in planetary imaging.

You need not concern about exposure length either...planetary imaging is done with fast framerate cameras.

No need to travel to dark sites either...planetary imaging isn't a problem under light pollution as long as you don't have bright lights shining directly into the scope.

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I suggested learning to drift align as the OP assumed that they would not be able to do anything except for planetary with an EQ5. I think they should be able to achieve long enough exposures for DSO's unguided on that mount if they align it well.

/Dan

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Thanks Dan, you're right on my assumption. I didn't plan on DSO at all even when I bought it. It would be nice if I could crack out a few once I purchase the focal reducer for my frac. Or use the ST80.

For now, it is planetary/solar though. 

I live in an apartment so I have to drive somewhere no matter what. But at least I don't have to go to a dark site each time for planetary. Getting away from street lights do pose a problem, but I have some spots that should work. 

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