Wanting to image DSO's and possibly planets -- is the AVX + Sky-Watcher Pro ED80 an ok combo for this?

[robalexander]

I'm planning on using either a Canon 6D or T2i to image them (I can never decide which camera would be better either...)

I'm also curious what accessories beyond the mount and scope themselves I would need or would be helpful to have.

[wxsatuser]

Nice combo and should be ok, you may want some gear for guiding.

Some dew bands may come in handy as well.

One thing, I would use the T2i as I think the ED80 will be hard pressed to cover the 6D frame.

May be someone else will be able to comment on that with a better idea.

[robalexander]

Thanks for your advice! I was absolutely thinking about the orion ssag for later down the road.

Do you think there is any situation where I could take advantage of the 6D's low light capability? Maybe if I were to get a longer focal length scope instead? Would the pros outweigh the cons?

Not sure, I'm way too new to all of this...

[ronin]

The ED 80 should be fine for the DSO aspect, without guiding you are likely limited to 60 second exposures, so something like a remote timer or intervalometer will be required. They set the DSLR up to get say 20 exposures each of 60 seconds. Leave an interval between each exprosure to allow the sensor to cool.

So you set something like 60 second exposure, 60 second wait, 20 cycles.

Not 100% sure of planets and a DSLR, have seen them but in general people use a webcam type camera, and they also use a Mak/SCT. Planets are bright and so the image size can be increased. Even with a CPC9.25 they seem to use a barlow as well. Image wise the f number is commonly up at f/25 to f/30. That is going to be not so easy on an ED 80. What will happen is that you get a small image, so a bright one and all detail is lost, it is overexposed. From the mention of webcam you can see that what is obtained is a movie of the planet, the best movie frames are stacked.

Just in case the DSO images has to be raw not jpeg.

You will need a t-ring to attach DSLR to ED80, you may need a short extension tube, 2", expect the arrangement to be Scope-Focuser, Extn tube, T-ring, DSLR (no diagonal). Spare battery for DSLR, nice big memory card.

[carastro]

Generally speaking you need different kit for planets and DSOs.

DSOs need faster scopes and a DSLR using long exposure will be fine, but you will need to guide to get long enough exposures.

Planets need a webcam and long FL scope and possibly barlow as well.  Planets are generally too small with a DSLR.  

Carole 

[wxsatuser]

Thanks for your advice! I was absolutely thinking about the orion ssag for later down the road.

Do you think there is any situation where I could take advantage of the 6D's low light capability? Maybe if I were to get a longer focal length scope instead? Would the pros outweigh the cons?

Not sure, I'm way too new to all of this...

If you have any decent camera lenses use those.

Canon EF 200mm L  can be used wide open @ f/2.8

I do widerfield imaging with a Sigma 105mm macro, see my images, link in my sig.

BTW...........the T2i has crop video mode as well, ideal for planets and the moon.

[PeterCPC]

I would advise using the reducer with the ED80 and Canon. Backyard EOS is a great capture software.

Peter

[hjw]

The combination is fine. The scope is just great and from what I hear the VAX is on par with the HEQ5 (give and take). As mentioned before, you will need an intervalometer to automate the picture taking and I bought a field flattener virtually after my first imaging session. I did not opt for a reducer/flattener because it increases the field of view (makes objects smaller) but on the upside it makes the scope "faster". Only other gizmo I've got, which had a big impact, was the Baader UHS-C filter.

Guiding will come next... and a longer scope... and a sturdier mount... once I win the lottery .

Good luck!

HJ

[robalexander]

Thanks everyone, what an awesome community! I greatly appreciate all of the input. I think I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on this!

[MattJenko]

Another vote for the dedicated ED80 flattener reducer. It also has the benefit of being a screw attachment, so you screw the reducer directly to the focuser and then screw the M48 adaptor for your DSLR directly onto the reducer. Very tight and it means the focus tube is not out a long way as well. It is pretty essential as those large chips in your DSLR will result in curved field (ie distorted) stars as you move towards the edges without one.

You can use your 6D, you will just have to crop the image a bit, as the edges won't be illuminated properly.

Guiding is key, so an ST80 and guide cam would be my next step.

Onwards and upwards!