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Monochrome/Debayered DSLRs


Aeseir

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They open new possibilitites for sure :) Mono of course makes it possible to use narrow band filters, but also Ha-RGB combinations if you have a IR filter modified DSLR.

I'm posting links isntead spamming more images on this thread..

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/250891-nikon-d600-monochrome-images/page-1

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/236643-nikon-d5100-monotec-narrow-bands/page-2

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2 hours ago, al-alami said:

Interesting thread ... a bit old though. :(

Anyone still debayering DSLRs?  I don't think I would have the heart (or resources) to give it a try.

A current thread on debayering a Nikon D70 sensor over on iceinspace,  the linked camera build thread is a good read if you have the time, that Brendan has had his finger in a few interesting projects.   (Now where did I put that new ZWO ASI094 camera?)  :happy6::happy6::happy6:

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26 minutes ago, Mick J said:

A current thread on debayering a Nikon D70 sensor over on iceinspace,  the linked camera build thread is a good read if you have the time, that Brendan has had his finger in a few interesting projects.   (Now where did I put that new ZWO ASI094 camera?)  :happy6::happy6::happy6:

Thanks, will look into it.   Honestly,  I wouldn't mind a QHY 163M ... wouldn't mind it at all. :p

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23 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I think it became less appealing when someone experimented and showed that the gain in sensitivity was largely offset by the loss of the microlenses.

I am sure that many other people also conducted those experiments, but I was one of them.

About 8 months back I did a back to back comparison of two identical DSLR's one mono, the other RGB under scientific conditions using a Ha filter and a OIII filter. 

My conclusion was that it almost broke even for Ha and you actually lost out allot with OIII. The hit to QE was just too large from loosing the micro lenses.

I do not recommend it, its allot of effort for very little gain.

You are best off choosing a DSLR of about 16 to 18 mega pixels, use super pixel debayering (with that resolution you will still be left with a decent image pixel scale) and imaging through the colour filters using narrow band filters.

Yes with a low resolution DSLR camera you do gain resolution but for most of the modern ones your resolution will be limited by aperture and atmospherics anyway.  

 

On 14/03/2017 at 16:36, al-alami said:

Interesting thread ... a bit old though. :(

Anyone still delayering DSLRs?  I don't think I would have the heart (or resources) to give it a try.

I could do it for you but I would not take your cash. Build yourself a DSLR cooler mate it will be much more useful. 

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13 hours ago, Adam J said:

I am sure that many other people also conducted those experiments, but I was one of them.

About 8 months back I did a back to back comparison of two identical DSLR's one mono, the other RGB under scientific conditions using a Ha filter and a OIII filter. 

My conclusion was that it almost broke even for Ha and you actually lost out allot with OIII. The hit to QE was just too large from loosing the micro lenses.

I do not recommend it, its allot of effort for very little gain.

You are best off choosing a DSLR of about 16 to 18 mega pixels, use super pixel debayering (with that resolution you will still be left with a decent image pixel scale) and imaging through the colour filters using narrow band filters.

Yes with a low resolution DSLR camera you do gain resolution but for most of the modern ones your resolution will be limited by aperture and atmospherics anyway.  

 

I could do it for you but I would not take your cash. Build yourself a DSLR cooler mate it will be much more useful. 

Very interesting Adam.  I am actually considering the cooling option at the moment.  The question is, how much colder will it get?  I know this is off topic (sorry).

 

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4 hours ago, al-alami said:

Very interesting Adam.  I am actually considering the cooling option at the moment.  The question is, how much colder will it get?  I know this is off topic (sorry).

 

Depends on how you chose to cool it / how well you engineer the cooler. I consistently geta drop of 20c or more at the CMOS. If I am honest while that is great for the UK as it will get you negative temperatures almost all year round, its not so great if you live in Jordan. It will help you lots as any decrease in temperature will improve signal to noise in your images. However, you will not match the performance that I have been getting in narrowband with my camera as 20c is not sufficient for your ambient temperatures.   

 

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