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Longest Exposure with Synscan


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Tested out the accuracy of my polar alignment the other day on my new 127mak eq-5 and it tracked jupiter perfectly for a good 20minutes without any adjustments and even through the 10mm it was centred and tracked smoothly !!

Just got my canon 450d and t-ring and adapter and was wondering what the longest exposures I could achieve for DSO's like Andromeda which I plan to image first ??

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Agree with tinker, try it and see, although due to the f12 fl of the mak you wont get long before trailing, I suspect around 30 seconds or 60 if you are really lucky with getting spot on pa.

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Tested out the accuracy of my polar alignment the other day on my new 127mak eq-5 and it tracked jupiter perfectly for a good 20minutes without any adjustments and even through the 10mm it was centred and tracked smoothly !!

Just got my canon 450d and t-ring and adapter and was wondering what the longest exposures I could achieve for DSO's like Andromeda which I plan to image first ??

About 30~60s unguided. Tracking a planet visually is very different to tracking a point source of light for imaging. Even  with excellent PA and a wide scope you'd be lucky to hit 180s unguided.

A.G

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First I would see how many seconds you can get before unacceptable star trailing, then with that exposure length look at the iso setting want to aim about 70% on the histogram.

Make sure in camera noise reduction is turned off if you are going to take darks too.

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I agree with philj, i never really gave the FL much consideration, a 130 P-DS would be a lot better and @ £159 from FLO not to bad on the wallet.....

130 pds is rubbish... have you see the dross uranium 235 is putting out ;)

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/239003-flame-to-sword-update-130pds/?p=2591175

Sorry, got sidetracked...the mak is quite a long fl but hey,it won't cost you anything to give it a go...I might be inclined to bump up the iso to 1600 with exposures only 30-60 sec long.

As tinker147 has rightly pointed out, the 130 pds is showing itself to be an incredible imaging scope in the handsof the compitent and are very reasonably priced

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With a DSLR your main aim is to get the histogram away from the lefthand side.

The histogram runs left to right and the first line from the left in Canons is 20%.

The 20% mark is a good starting point for the correct exposure for your sky conditions.

As Martin, I normally aim for 25% but you can push that to 40%, the further you push to the right

the more likely it will be harder to seperate the faint stuff from the sky.

There is no harm in experimenting with your camera to find the sweet spot but I prefer not to waste good

imaging time and just get that histogram peak somewhere in the range of 20 to 40%

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