I need help with equipment!

[Mikaellm1234]

Hello. I am a completely new stargazer, and I would love a bit of help with getting equipment.

My main goal is to watch the planets of our system and perhaps photograph some them.

This is the equipment that I have thought of buying (money is not really a problem as long as it doesn't exceed ~ 1200 £)

Links are provided.

Explorer 200P OR Explorer 200P-DS

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-200p-ds-ota.html

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-200p-ota.html

HEQ5 SynTrek Mount

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-heq5-syntrek.html

Now it is time for the questions:

1. Which one would you recommend: Is the 200P-DS good for visual or is it ONLY for photographing.

2. Will the SynTrek Mount be able to "track" objects so that the mount rotates against the Earth's axis correspondingly and will I get counterweights with the mount

3. The Explorer 200P-DS says that it comes with this eyepiece:

• Eyepiece Supplied 2" 28mm long-eye-relief

Is it possible to use 1,25" eyepieces too, or does it have to be 2".

4. How much magnification do I need to see Jupiter and Saturn up close like in this picture and what eyepieces are good for this (I take no credit for the photo)

5. What eyepieces would you recommend for magnification EG: 80x 100x 200x

(please post links for great eyepieces which give nice magnification and fit with the telescope)

6. For photography, I have considered these two things for setting up my Cannon EOS: (which ones would you recommend and how do I use them)
http://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/skywatcher-coma-corrector.html

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/skywatcher-dslr-m48-ring-adapter.html

Please be honest with me, and thank you in advance! Looking forward to hearing from you!

And by the way, I am EXTREMELY new, so please explain it in a simple and understandable way

Cheers,

Mikael

[Paul73]

Mikael

I'm not sure about the scopes, but it is very unlikely that you will see an image that will compare to the picture when you look through the eyepiece. Unfortunately it will be Nowhere near as big and clear as the picture. However, with practice and the right kit you could take a picture or two that will get close to it!!

Don't worry though. Your first clear view of Jupiter and Saturn through these scopes will leave you breathless.

The expert kit reviewers will be along in a minute to advise.

Good luck.

Paul

[GuillermoBarrancos]

Ehmm.... first thing you need to do, is immediately put that Picture out of Your mind and forget about it.

You never going to see Jupiter that large and detailed in an Eyepiece. Unless you win the lottery and buy a huge observatory with a huge Professional telescope.

This image is taken at very high magnification with a very sensitive planetary camera that takes thousands of frames within a very short period of time. All these frames are then stacked and processed to produce that image you see.

If you would look through the telescope at such high magnification, you won't see anything but an extremely dim and blurred image of Jupiter, as Our telescopes cannot support those kind of magnifications for visual observation.

The average size of Jupiter in for example the reflector telescope you mention, will be pea sized. But still impressive tho! And on good seeing Nights will show you plenty of detail still.

You really just have to keep your expectations in check, so you don't dissapoint yourself.

[ronin]

If you intend imaging then the PDS is more suited to this.

The Syntrek will track, but would have thought that the full goto is better at least then the mount aims the scope at the object, you do not spend time locating it and the goto makes adding guiding easier.

Focuser will take 1.25" and 2", Has an adaptor with it to use either.

That image will have been taken with a BIG SCT and then processed to death, you will not get near it visually.

For the magnifications given 12mm, 10mm and 5mm.

Suspect you will need both the items for attaching the camera and getting good images.

[Mikaellm1234]

Ofcourse I am not going to see it as that, what I meant was being able to see it in colours, and planet shaped instead a star which it looks like with the naked eye.

Thanks for answers

[Mikaellm1234]

If you intend imaging then the PDS is more suited to this.

The Syntrek will track, but would have thought that the full goto is better at least then the mount aims the scope at the object, you do not spend time locating it and the goto makes adding guiding easier.

Focuser will take 1.25" and 2", Has an adaptor with it to use either.

That image will have been taken with a BIG SCT and then processed to death, you will not get near it visually.

For the magnifications given 12mm, 10mm and 5mm.

Suspect you will need both the items for attaching the camera and getting good images.

What do you mean by focuser? Will a 1,25" eyepiece work with the  Explorer 2000P-DS or not?

[Mikaellm1234]

If you intend imaging then the PDS is more suited to this.

The Syntrek will track, but would have thought that the full goto is better at least then the mount aims the scope at the object, you do not spend time locating it and the goto makes adding guiding easier.

Focuser will take 1.25" and 2", Has an adaptor with it to use either.

That image will have been taken with a BIG SCT and then processed to death, you will not get near it visually.

For the magnifications given 12mm, 10mm and 5mm.

Suspect you will need both the items for attaching the camera and getting good images.

I know that the goTo is easier, but it kinda removes the good experience. I would like to locate the objects by myself, but being able to have the Scope stay on there would be really nice

[Dubhar]

Others may give you better answers.

There shouldnt be a difference with the scope. Ive never used it though so dont take my word for it.

3. the focuser accepts both 2" and 1 1/4" eyepieces 

4. You wont see it that large or detail but depending on the skys you can see detail and pick out moons easily.

5. the included 28mm will give you a power of 33x

a 10mm would give you 100x

if you get a 2x barlow that would give you 33x 66x 100x and 200x

I have seen mentioned here that the BST explorer eyepieces are pretty good and decent prices if your on a budget, (correct my if im wrong on this eyepiece)

[Paul73]

Ofcourse I am not going to see it as that, what I meant was being able to see it in colours, and planet shaped instead a star which it looks like with the naked eye.

Thanks for answers

In that case. You won't be disappointed. You'l get coloured bands (a bit blurry but recognisable), moons x4 and potentially the Great Red Spot on good nights.

Then try Saturn.......

Paul

[Mikaellm1234]

Others may give you better answers.

There shouldnt be a difference with the scope. Ive never used it though so dont take my word for it.

3. the focuser accepts both 2" and 1 1/4" eyepieces 

4. You wont see it that large or detail but depending on the skys you can see detail and pick out moons easily.

5. the included 28mm will give you a power of 33x

a 10mm would give you 100x

if you get a 2x barlow that would give you 33x 66x 100x and 200x

I have seen mentioned here that the BST explorer eyepieces are pretty good and decent prices if your on a budget, (correct my if im wrong on this eyepiece)

Are you sure that it accepts 1,25" too? What is a barlow lens? How much magnification would you recommend?

[Paul73]

What do you mean by focuser? Will a 1,25" eyepiece work with the  Explorer 2000P-DS or not?

The focuser is the bit that you stick the eyepiece into and wind it in or out to obtain a sharp focus. The majority of scopes have two adapters which mean that you can use either 1.25" or 2" eyepieces.

[Mikaellm1234]

Is the HEQ5 SynTrek going to cut the deal? All I expect it to do is stay on the target (counteracting Earths rotation), I know I will have to find the object manually which is a part of the experience.

[Dubhar]

Are you sure that it accepts 1,25" too? What is a barlow lens? How much magnification would you recommend?

If you look at the specs.

> 1.25"/2” Dual-Speed 10:1 Crayford Focuser

1.25"/2" means it will take both 1.25 and 2" equipment. It will have a removable 2" - 1.25" adapter.

Magnification would probably depend on conditions and what your looking at ive never used anything over 200x really, but my mount wont track so high magnification is hit and it runs away for me.

a barlow lens will basically has the effect of increasing the magnification. 2x barlow, 2x the magnification.

[Mikaellm1234]

If you look at the specs.

> 1.25"/2” Dual-Speed 10:1 Crayford Focuser

1.25"/2" means it will take both 1.25 and 2" equipment. It will have a removable 2" - 1.25" adapter.

Magnification would probably depend on conditions and what your looking at ive never used anything over 200x really, but my mount wont track so high magnification is hit and it runs away for me.

a barlow lens will basically has the effect of increasing the magnification. 2x barlow, 2x the magnification.

So if I have an eyepice which is EG 10 mm (gives 100x magnification) I can then add a Barlow which will make it 200x magnification (without having to swap the eyepiece which saves me money). Is that correct?

[Dubhar]

So if I have an eyepice which is EG 10 mm (gives 100x magnification) I can then add a Barlow which will make it 200x magnification (without having to swap the eyepiece which saves me money). Is that correct?

Basically yes. Though with the 2" eyepiece youd need a 2" barlow (which normally also come with 2" - 1.25" adapters. There a little more expensive. Can't really give advice on that since Im actually looking to get a 2" barlow sometime in the future as i only have an old old old  1.25" 2x barlow.

[Tinker1947]

If your going to do some imagine then the GoTo is a must have, a lot of DSO's are very dim, there not going to show up in a camera view finder, with the GoTo you sycn the mount to something close a bright star, then slew to the hidden DSO, its been typed already but just so you're aware, you will not see galaxies like the images, through a EP there all grey fuzzy patches mostly very small, bigger scope and good EP's plus  dark skies will show the spiral arms on a few of them. you have a long way to go to on the AP trail...good luck. 

[Mikaellm1234]

If your going to do some imagine then the GoTo is a must have, a lot of DSO's are very dim, there not going to show up in a camera view finder, with the GoTo you sycn the mount to something close a bright star, then slew to the hidden DSO, its been typed already but just so you're aware, you will not see galaxies like the images, through a EP there all grey fuzzy patches mostly very small, bigger scope and good EP's plus  dark skies will show the spiral arms on a few of them. you have a long way to go to on the AP trail...good luck. 

What is a DSO? And I really don't want a GoTo, they remove the experience of having to find the objects yourself... Will the SynTrek be able to stay on target?

[Dubhar]

What is a DSO? And I really don't want a GoTo, they remove the experience of having to find the objects yourself... Will the SynTrek be able to stay on target?

DSO = Deep Sky Object.

Id add that I do agree with you getting to know the sky is a good thing. Ive been using a manualy driven mount for years, im only now thinking of upgrading and a goto is something ill be including. Theres no requirement to use the goto function. Thats maybe something to keep in mind. The goto version of the mount your looking at as far as i can tell is identical it just has the goto controller. Its definitely worth considering for objects you cant or are having trouble finding, as im not sure if you can buy the controller on its own (?)

[Mikaellm1234]

DSO = Deep Sky Object.

Id add that I do agree with you getting to know the sky is a good thing. Ive been using a manualy driven mount for years, im only now thinking of upgrading and a goto is something ill be including. Theres no requirement to use the goto function. Thats maybe something to keep in mind. The goto version of the mount your looking at as far as i can tell is identical it just has the goto controller. Its definitely worth considering for objects you cant or are having trouble finding, as im not sure if you can buy the controller on its own (?)

It says that I can always buy a controller to upgrade later, so if I decide that I want a goTo in 5 years I can simply upgrade

Also, will the HEQ5 SynTrek mount be able to "lock-on" to objects (counteracting Earth's roation)

[Cornelius Varley]

It says that I can always buy a controller to upgrade later, so if I decide that I want a goTo in 5 years I can simply upgrade

Also, will the HEQ5 SynTrek mount be able to "lock-on" to objects (counteracting Earth's roation)

The Syntrek mount, plus all other driven equatorial mounts, (including goto mounts) will track at 15 degrees per hour (sidereal rate). This is the speed at which the earth rotates and the mount also moves at this rate to compensate for the earth's rotation. With careful polar alignment of the mount an object should stay within the field of view for several minutes before the observer need to make adjustments using the hand control.

[Mikaellm1234]

The Syntrek mount, plus all other driven equatorial mounts, (including goto mounts) will track at 15 degrees per hour (sidereal rate). This is the speed at which the earth rotates and the mount also moves at this rate to compensate for the earth's rotation. With careful polar alignment of the mount an object should stay within the field of view for several minutes before the observer need to make adjustments using the hand control.

Thanks a lot!

[Tinker1947]

It says that I can always buy a controller to upgrade later, so if I decide that I want a goTo in 5 years I can simply upgrade

Also, will the HEQ5 SynTrek mount be able to "lock-on" to objects (counteracting Earth's roation)

You don't have to use the GoTo its there just incase, my 77 Messiers were all found star hopping with a NEQ6, just Stick a Telrad on the scope , download the free telrad maps and install Stellarium this has Telrad circles built in.....

Telrad

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/telrad-finder-astronomy.html

Stellarium

http://www.stellarium.org/

Telrad Maps

http://www.astro-tom.com/messier/messier_finder_charts/messier_maps.htm

[skywatcher58gb]

Hi

The difference between the two scopes is that the 200P has a single speed focuser (one course knob) while the DS has a secondary focuser knob which turns 10x to get one revolution of the course knob, this enable finer focusing adjustment. Otherwise the scopes are near identical. All telescopes can be used for visual observation and the 2" focuser normally comes with an adaptor to take 1.25" eyepieces if preferred. The 200P has a focal length of 1000mm and a mirror of 200mm therefore the focal ratio is 1000/200 = f5.

This is classed as a fast scope because the focal length to mirror size is quite short, the result is this scope will give a relatively wide field of view. Now for observing or photographing planets the opposite would be the preferred ie f10 or 2000mm / 200mm mirror. The same eyepiece say 10mm will give x100 in the 1000mm but x200 in the 2000mm scope (divide the focal length of the scope by the focal length of the eyepiece). The 200P would be better suited to photographing wide field objects such as star clusters or nebula. Refractor telescopes are better suited for planetary work as they can take lower focal length eyepieces such as 7mm or 5mm, here is the catch, refractors of large aperture say >125mm diameter  start to become very expensive, also they come as achromatic or apochromatic, the latter being even more expensive as they are corrected to remove colour fringing. This is why so many people buy reflectors as more aperture can be bought with not as great an outlay in cost. The down side of reflectors is that they may need collimating at regular intervals (aligning the optics by adjustment), the mirror may degrade over time resulting in re-coating and the central obstruction of the secondary reduces the light gathering and they take up more space. The HEQ5 syntrek mount will track the night sky to allow you to take photos of Jupiter but not with a DSLR, you will need a webcam or a dedicated planetary imaging camera. Jupiter rotates at a very fast rate any long exposure will just result in a blurred image, a planetary imaging camera take many frames per second over a maximum time period of 2 to 3 minutes, the frames are then stacked and processed to give the final image. A DSLR is normally used for deep sky imaging galaxies, star clusters and nebula, or with a wide angle lens imaging the milky way. If you put imaging to one side for the time being why not go for an 8" or 10" dobsonian until you learn the sky and get experience, then think about upgrading to an equatorial mount, you may even consider mounting the 8" or 10" scope onto the EQ mount using rings.

Dave

[Mikaellm1234]

Hi

The difference between the two scopes is that the 200P has a single speed focuser (one course knob) while the DS has a secondary focuser knob which turns 10x to get one revolution of the course knob, this enable finer focusing adjustment. Otherwise the scopes are near identical. All telescopes can be used for visual observation and the 2" focuser normally comes with an adaptor to take 1.25" eyepieces if preferred. The 200P has a focal length of 1000mm and a mirror of 200mm therefore the focal ratio is 1000/200 = f5.

This is classed as a fast scope because the focal length to mirror size is quite short, the result is this scope will give a relatively wide field of view. Now for observing or photographing planets the opposite would be the preferred ie f10 or 2000mm / 200mm mirror. The same eyepiece say 10mm will give x100 in the 1000mm but x200 in the 2000mm scope (divide the focal length of the scope by the focal length of the eyepiece). The 200P would be better suited to photographing wide field objects such as star clusters or nebula. Refractor telescopes are better suited for planetary work as they can take lower focal length eyepieces such as 7mm or 5mm, here is the catch, refractors of large aperture say >125mm diameter  start to become very expensive, also they come as achromatic or apochromatic, the latter being even more expensive as they are corrected to remove colour fringing. This is why so many people buy reflectors as more aperture can be bought with not as great an outlay in cost. The down side of reflectors is that they may need collimating at regular intervals (aligning the optics by adjustment), the mirror may degrade over time resulting in re-coating and the central obstruction of the secondary reduces the light gathering and they take up more space. The HEQ5 syntrek mount will track the night sky to allow you to take photos of Jupiter but not with a DSLR, you will need a webcam or a dedicated planetary imaging camera. Jupiter rotates at a very fast rate any long exposure will just result in a blurred image, a planetary imaging camera take many frames per second over a maximum time period of 2 to 3 minutes, the frames are then stacked and processed to give the final image. A DSLR is normally used for deep sky imaging galaxies, star clusters and nebula, or with a wide angle lens imaging the milky way. If you put imaging to one side for the time being why not go for an 8" or 10" dobsonian until you learn the sky and get experience, then think about upgrading to an equatorial mount, you may even consider mounting the 8" or 10" scope onto the EQ mount using rings.

Dave

Thanks for a nice answer! I really like reflectors, and I would like a scope which I can stick with for a long time (cant afford upgrading too much)... Do you know any good cameras for photographing planets? Do you think I should go for the 200P-DS instead of the ordinary 200P? How do I callibrate the mount to follow the sky?

[adavies8900]

At the moment im in two minds which scope to get to. But im more confused about the mount more then anything. Not sure if i want the Skywatcher AZ EQ6-GT http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-az-eq6-mount.html or this set up http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-200p-eq5-goto.html but then i found out i will need a powertank. This is my first time using this advance mount so a little confused. 

Sorry for hi-jacking