1st RGB imaging Advise wanted

[zakkhogan]

I've recently upgraded to my first mono camera + filter wheel.

I used my cpc800, 2.5x barlow and a bahtinov focus mask. (removed for imaging)

I cant help but feel that all the images are 1. Lacking in detail. 2 A little blurry.

I know atmospherics play a big part in the clarity of an image but i think im doing something wrong.

I also noticed that the camera was at it's best only capturing at 20fps  but did fluctuate  regulary down to around 8 / 10 FPS

I've reduced the final image in size by over 50% to get it to a reasonable quality.

All comments and help is welcome.

RED

[ASI120MM Camera (ZWO Design)]
Frame Divisor=1
Resolution=640x560
Frame Rate (fps)=Maximum
Colour Space / Compression=MONO8
Pan=0
Tilt=0
Exposure (s)=0.067261
Brightness=3
Gamma=1
Gain=34

GREEN

[ASI120MM Camera (ZWO Design)]
Frame Divisor=1
Resolution=640x560
Frame Rate (fps)=Maximum
Colour Space / Compression=MONO8
Pan=0
Tilt=0
Exposure (s)=0.037511
Brightness=4
Gamma=39
Gain=50

BLUE

[ASI120MM Camera (ZWO Design)]
Frame Divisor=1
Resolution=640x560
Frame Rate (fps)=Maximum
Colour Space / Compression=MONO8
Pan=0
Tilt=0
Exposure (s)=0.037511
Brightness=4
Gamma=39
Gain=50

[knobby]

Its a start !

Only thing that springs to mind Craig is the gamma is recommended at 50 on the MC version, should it be the same on the MM ?

Also did you refocus between filter changes , apparently you have to, thats what put me off RGB.

[daz]

Also did you refocus between filter changes , apparently you have to, thats what put me off RGB.

Depends on the filters... Ideally you'd want par-focal ones so you don't need to refocus.

[lensman57]

Hi,

You have not stated what filters u r using but the filters need to be either IR blocked or you have to use a quality IR block filter in front of them, the second is the issue of the filters being Parfocal not only with themselves but aslo with the scope. As you are using an SCT it is safe to assume that there are no problems with all the wave lengths coming to focus at the same point so as long as the filters are Parfocal with themselves there should not be any reason for refocusing between filter changes provided the filter wheel can keep and locate all the filters at the same distance from the sensor, in another other word the rotator is not wonky which in cheap filter wheels they often are.

A.G

[zakkhogan]

this is my filter wheel

http://www.365astronomy.com/skywatcher-5position-filter-wheel-for-imaging-or-visual-observations-p-3211.html

and this filter set.

http://www.365astronomy.com/ccd-rgb-filterset-125-for-beginners-p-767.html

i use the IR filter in one of the chambers on the wheel, should i put it on the nosepiece ?

[knobby]

No expert Craig but I believe the ir filter should go on the nosepeice so it can be combined with the rgb filters

[Pete Presland]

yes put the ir filter in the nosepeice so it can be combined with the rgb filters. do you have the histogram visible on screen when imaging?

[Pete Presland]

the histogram should be around 80%-90% full when capturing, it does make the image look a little bright when capturing, but it captures more etail for stacking/processing. 

[lensman57]

this is my filter wheel

http://www.365astronomy.com/skywatcher-5position-filter-wheel-for-imaging-or-visual-observations-p-3211.html

and this filter set.

http://www.365astronomy.com/ccd-rgb-filterset-125-for-beginners-p-767.html

i use the IR filter in one of the chambers on the wheel, should i put it on the nosepiece ?

yep , on the nosepiece please, just leave the 4th chamber empty and with IR filter on the nosepiece you can do the lum subs but you need to refocus for this as with even  parfocal filters yo'd be imaging through 2 pieces of glass for the colour but just one for the LUM. I don't think those filters are parfocal but you better check the specs. I would also suggest that u cover the filter wheel with a light proof material to minimise inevitable light leaks , when i was using my manual filter wheel last year i'd wrap it with a black bin bag.

A.G