DSLR - basic mod, advice needed.

[Aenima]

Hi,

Ive got a kind of two part question, one thats from an earlier post - but relevant now, and new one with very similar content. I hope someone with more of an idea than me about imaging and mods can help.

1#

I have a canon 300D which I only occasionally use with lens, and a spc/toucam webcam - both unmodded. I really want to make my long exposure images so they arent missing that huge chunk of red-ish colour and/or detail that unmodded dslr pictures always show (not helped by my limited exposure times ~ 30sec - 60sec).

So i'm hoping to work out whether to mod my dslr IR filter, and hope to capture the missing wavelengths (also hope to still use lenses?) or to get my webcam long exp modded and (again, hoping) use it instead of the canon, but not really sure of the quality and colour of a LX webcams DSO imaging...

As im into planetary too the idea of replacing the ccd chip popped into my head but with a small budget I have to prioritize my options and better dso images are needed more.

Thnx

2#

I want to get a modification on my canon 300D but still have trouble working out the difference in the various mods, and which kind will work with my current requirements -?

Ideally i'd like to get the basic ir removal - in most web sites its advertised around 150 pounds, unless thats another filter removal?. Firstly auto focus is not an issue as my clip broke causing little mirror to block sensor area - its now stuck nicely inside the main mirror, so i dont mind losing AF, but i'd like to a) do custom balance to continue 'normal' photography, and not have to use extra external ir etc. filters whilst imaging with a scope.

Can anyone tell me whether I can just get the ir filter removed and use it in the usual way i did before? And if so are there any suggestions of who can do this modifation for me at a reasonable price?

The two questions both remain a little confusing for my brain boggles....

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Aenima

[Merlin66]

As mentioned on the other thread...

The 300D only has one filter element....removing this will improve the red response.

Custom white Balance will make the corrections for you.

A webcam (modded or not) is probably better for planets.

[Psychobilly]

with the older Canon cameras the Filter was a relatively thick single piece (around 3mm) and if it's removed and not replaced with an alternative filter then most camera lenses will not allow infinity focus - the more expensive L series ones have significant extra focus travel beyond "infinity" and still come to focus on my filter removed 350D. It's not a problem on scopes though.

You will also loose UV/IR blocking so that will need to be taken care of elsewhere in the imaging train. If you don't take care of the UV/IR blocking and aren't using a reflecting scope you will suffer from star bloat... You may also suffer from "soft" images when the camera is used for normal photography

The more modern cameras have a multi part "filter" stack so you can remove just the part that is blocking the Ha wavelengths the thickness removed is much less and you will still be able to achieve infinity focus with camera lenses...

Custom white balance will help and is pretty much essential if you are shooting "jpegs" for your day to day shots as the WB correction is applied in camera before the image is saved tot he card... It will also help if you shot raws as it would be one of the "presets" available in the post processing...

Ken beat me to it

Peter...

[Naemeth]

Personally, I'd never shoot in jpeg. Much more options in RAW.

I agree about the white balance - my 350D which is modded used to display a kind of red-tint, but with the right settings it's not really visible.. either that or I've stopped noticing it. Who knows?

Generally speaking, DSLR for Deep Sky, Webcam for Planets,

HTH.

[Aenima]

thank you guys,

My 'main' interest is astro - primefocus newtonian- so would the 'basic' filter removal be quite an improvement in this area, even without external filters?

Otherwise the 'next' mod up, a filter replacement - can that be done on the 300D? i noticed astronomiser only mentions full spectrum when it came to the 300d so not sure on that.

I do love planetary but my 2nd ccd cam could be both lightweight (i have 200p/EQ5) long exp with possibly better red response, and used for guiding so long as its LX modded. (?)

With this in mind i'm trying to figure out how best to use my budget to improve my AP. (a synguider has occurred to me but with unmodded dslr it might be the wrong move right now?)

Thanks lots for the advice guys

Regards

Aenima

[lensman57]

Hi,

Ive got a kind of two part question, one thats from an earlier post - but relevant now, and new one with very similar content. I hope someone with more of an idea than me about imaging and mods can help.

1#

I have a canon 300D which I only occasionally use with lens, and a spc/toucam webcam - both unmodded. I really want to make my long exposure images so they arent missing that huge chunk of red-ish colour and/or detail that unmodded dslr pictures always show (not helped by my limited exposure times ~ 30sec - 60sec).

So i'm hoping to work out whether to mod my dslr IR filter, and hope to capture the missing wavelengths (also hope to still use lenses?) or to get my webcam long exp modded and (again, hoping) use it instead of the canon, but not really sure of the quality and colour of a LX webcams DSO imaging...

As im into planetary too the idea of replacing the ccd chip popped into my head but with a small budget I have to prioritize my options and better dso images are needed more.

Thnx

2#

I want to get a modification on my canon 300D but still have trouble working out the difference in the various mods, and which kind will work with my current requirements -?

Ideally i'd like to get the basic ir removal - in most web sites its advertised around 150 pounds, unless thats another filter removal?. Firstly auto focus is not an issue as my clip broke causing little mirror to block sensor area - its now stuck nicely inside the main mirror, so i dont mind losing AF, but i'd like to a) do custom balance to continue 'normal' photography, and not have to use extra external ir etc. filters whilst imaging with a scope.

Can anyone tell me whether I can just get the ir filter removed and use it in the usual way i did before? And if so are there any suggestions of who can do this modifation for me at a reasonable price?

The two questions both remain a little confusing for my brain boggles....

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Aenima

Hi,

Use your DSLR unmodded for now and start saving for an ATIK or a StarLight of some sort. Even if you modded your camera now in about a years time you'd still be wanting to upgrade to a proper Cooled CCd. So save the money. A modded camera will have slighly better response for the red region of light but unless you have somesort of cooling for the chip, after a few long exposures the heat build up will severely affect the quality of your images and ultimately your patience.

A.G

[Photosbykev]

Personally I think you are throwing money away by looking to modify an obselete camera that really is a dinosaur and no longer supported by anyone.

The cameras that have superceded the 300D are significantly better in all areas and in the long term replacing the camera now with something like an 1100D would be the better option. Further down the road modifying the 1100D will give you good results.

[Aenima]

I appreciate the advice regarding the 300D and generally i'd like to try out a cooled CCD, but my budget is literally restricted to 200 bucks - for quite a long time to come - so as I already have a dslr and a toucam I can get them both modded for 200.

If I had more money coming my thoughts would be the advice is good and i'd be looking to buy pre-modded 1100 or ATIK style CCD - but it was sheer luck to have been given the 300D body and without yet being able to upgrade my mount or start guiding the best I can get is a minute or so exposure. I might be wrong but all things considered I'm struggling to think of other options for that 200 bucks, maybe my patience could last long enough to slowly add to the money but it wouldnt be easy

Anyway, thank you for the straight up advice, I can see the merit of looking at the long term - it just seems like a compromise for now that can take me up a notch whilst I wait for the chance - a fair while from now - to be able really upgrade my imaging set-up.

Much appreciated, and please feel free to correct me if my thinking is way off in the above post.

Regards

Aenima

ps. the 300D is very used and not going to be worth selling - i'd actually thought of that option but its not worth much, and the toucam modded might be a guide cam later in life

[Aenima]

Still wondering if this is really the wrong move?

With my budget, other equipment, etc. to consider im still thinking that modding my dslr and webcam will better my images, keep me going til the old finances improve - if they improve - but kinda have doubts now..

Anyone have opinions on this?

Regards

Aenima

[Gina]

This is a dicfficult one. I agree with the others that getting your 300D modded would be wasting your money. I've been looking around and there is a ready modded 350D for sale in the Classifieds here for £100. That would be cheaper than paying to get your 300D modded and you would still have the 300D for ordinary photography. I believe this is also a model with a single filter so won't infinity focus with most lenses but should be fine with your telescope. Of course, I can't vouch for the quality of the £100 body - I only know what the advertiser has posted, so as with everything second hand it's "buyer beware".

Link here :- http://stargazerslounge.com/classifieds/item/1684-modified-canon-eos-350d-power-supply/

[billhinge]

My camera is admittedly not a canon but I modded it myself - you would probably need a good PH00 & PH000 screwdriver and a couple of good tweezers (do at your own risk of course )

It is now full spectrum and as well as being infrared sensitive there is also a 1.5 to 2 stop gain in normal visible so in theory you could get quadruple the light for the same exposure (thats for my camera I can't speak for the canon)

Also since the AA filter is gone then the image is sharper - I don't think moire is an issue in astrophotography ?

If you want a custom clear full spectrum filter I found a source who will cut me a custom spectrosil 2000 'quartz' windows for about £40

If you went full spectrum then for normal and astro you would need a screw on UV/IR cut filter and you would need to be able to set a custom white balance as your image would be reddish tinged

So it depends if you want to do terrestrial and astro or terrestrial infrared as well, if you do want to do terrestrial infrared then get full spectrum, if not then just replace the stock filter with a Baader or similar

If you contemplate terrestrial infrared then you need to ensure that your canon has real live view otherwise you wont be able to see to focus

[Aenima]

Hi,

Thanks for the input. Gina I'm unfortunately in the position of undergoing the mod/payment so really I should've looked around more, but thank you.

My intent is purely astro, and the 300D only - i think have the option to remove filter, does this mean it will be unusable for astro/newtonian purposes without having to put an extra filter or two in place?

My thought was the filter gets removed and allows red/Ha through, maybe making terestrial use difficult but i'm only wanting to do long exp with my newt - do I have this wrong?

Regards

Aenima

[Merlin66]

Aenima,

You're correct. On the 300D removing the filter will dramatically improve the sensitivity to the red and Ha.

As billhinge says above, you'll need to add a UV-IR cut filter somewhere in the optical path for "conventional" astro imaging.

[Aenima]

Aenima,

You're correct. On the 300D removing the filter will dramatically improve the sensitivity to the red and Ha.

As billhinge says above, you'll need to add a UV-IR cut filter somewhere in the optical path for "conventional" astro imaging.

Hi, thanks. Would this be the case even with a reflector? I can really only find references that regard refractors or lenses, otherwise the results seem non too affected.

I will be using A LPF but will seriously need uv/ir too?

Appreciate the response, thanks.

Regards

Aenima

[Merlin66]

Reflectors bring all wavelengths of light to a common focus, so at least in theory, a UV-IR is not required.

(You'll probably find the LPR already has the UV-IR build in)

[Aenima]

Ahh, slightly relieved to hear that, cheers.

Last thing i want is to lose my best means of imaging in an attempt to improve it!

Its the 2" skywatcher Light pollution filter - taped under the focuser so there's no need for eyepieces or thread attachments, just stick the T-ring straight in with camera attached.

But i'm glad my camera will still work with my newt, generally speaking.

Thank you Merlin.

Regards

Aenima