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My new leisure battery case


kingboya

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Hi

Well, it has taken a little while, but I wanted a case, like so many others here, that insulated the battery, and provided all of the power connectors that are needed.

I is a bog standard Stanley large tool box. The two orange straps are there simply to support the weight and provide a little more rigidity to the plastic box.

post-19531-0-58856100-1362134210_thumb.j

The two accessory trays house firstly, the master on/off switch and the volt meter with switch. Both switches are led illuminated, and when the switch is illuminated, the system is on.

post-19531-0-36519800-1362134354_thumb.jpost-19531-0-88731600-1362134388_thumb.j

The other side has the 6 marine waterproof 12V cigarette sockets, labelled up. post-19531-0-44996900-1362134468_thumb.j

Opening the case, reveals the wiring, that is simpler than it looks!

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I used quick release battery clamps, so that when it comes to charging, I can totally isolate the battery from the case, and charge as normal. I have a smart charger with crock clips so this for me is the easiest and best way.

30A cable goes to the 30A LED master switch, then to an inline fuse of 30A (blade fuse) using 30 cable, and then into a distribution block. The disttribution block then has 6 15A cables going to the fuse box (blade fuses) and then each seperate fused circuit to the corresponding socket that will be power each device. For example, The NEQ6 mount has a 5A fuse, and the Canon 1000D SLR has a 3A fuse etc). Now I know that this is probably overkill, and that each 12v plug has a fuse in it, but I wanted a belt and braces approach, to protect all this valuable equipment!.

From the -ve of the cigarette sockets, 6 15 A cables go to another distribution block, and then 30A cable back to the quick release battery terminal.

The voltmeter circuit is unfused (very cheap components and I couldn't be bothered!). I used 15A cable which is massive overkill, but it is what I had.

It is all crimped together with various crimp ends etcpost-19531-0-11076300-1362135081_thumb.jpost-19531-0-47148400-1362135118_thumb.jpost-19531-0-02076500-1362135142_thumb.j

The base of the case simply has a piece of approx 3/4 inch of polystyrene, with a section of ply (10 Ply I think) with blocks to hold the battery in place to stop it sliding around. Thats it.post-19531-0-00113300-1362135577_thumb.jpost-19531-0-89245200-1362135602_thumb.j

I really enjoyed this project, and would encourage anyone else considering it to just go for it!

A lot of this stuff was just lying around in the garage, but 12v sockets cost £24, various switches, fuse box distribution blocks etc , all from ebay, cost approx £35-40. Not too bad ;)

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Nice package. I might want to get something like that, as my early forays into imaging show that my current battery is inadequate.
I would recommend going down the leisure battery route. This beast runs everything all night.... Laptop, dew heaters, slr, mount etc:o
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Very neat layout , i like the tool box designs used for diy power packs, i find the sheer weight of the leisure batteries (i use a 90Ah gel battery in a plywood box) to be cumbersome , it would be great if big Ah rated light weight Lithium batt's were as affordable as lead-acid :D

Great build you have there.

Dave.

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Thank you :rolleyes:

I had '1st light' with it last night and it worked like a charm. One seriously big improvement I have noticed today is that the battery did not drain anywhere near as fast as when I plonked it on frosty ground as before. Chuffed with that if nothing else.

Onwards and upwards! :D

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Nice bit of construction. I had noticed how an accidental short can lead to "fireworks". :p

If you don't have the bits lying around - Some nice DVM modules:

http://uk.farnell.co...ower/dp/1339257

Also "discovered" existence of low resistance SHUNTS to display the current:

http://uk.farnell.co...-20a/dp/1339338

Do CHECK the exact modules / shunts you require. The price escalates rather quickly! ;)

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