Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

The difference when using a moon filter.


Connect2space

Recommended Posts

So this is my first photo taken through my Skywatcher skyliner 200p without a moon filter (I think I used a 10mm eyepiece although it could of been a 25mm)

704767 549870828359725 286290966 O (1)

This is my second photo taken through my Skywatcher-Heritage 76 with a 10mm eyepiece, a 2x barlow and a moon filter.

169224 566580940022047 1683313316 O

Maybe I made a mistake somewhere but im pretty sure that the moon filter made a big difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Photo links don't work. Have another go or let a moderator know. Good idea though!

I couldnt get it to work when using a URL either, thats the one problem with this forum is it doesn't have a simple add a photo option like other forums I have used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

They are both over exposed, try playing with the setting when you take the picture, Sadly with over exposure you cannot get the data back by adjusting the picture. Far better to go for under exposure and then you can adjust it.

Focus also looks a bit suspect in the second one.

What camera are you using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

They are both over exposed, try playing with the setting when you take the picture, Sadly with over exposure you cannot get the data back by adjusting the picture. Far better to go for under exposure and then you can adjust it.

Focus also looks a bit suspect in the second one.

What camera are you using?

I was using my phone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was using my phone.

Be Careful, ET might nick it to phone home :D

Seriously, I would not bother with the phone for this, you have no control over any of the setting such as shutter speed, ISO ratings etc. The Moon, or any really bright object, is best photographed at high speed with either an ISO 100 or 200 setting, this prevents a lot of the issues you have in those pictures. Good effort though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be Careful, ET might nick it to phone home :D

Seriously, I would not bother with the phone for this, you have no control over any of the setting such as shutter speed, ISO ratings etc. The Moon, or any really bright object, is best photographed at high speed with either an ISO 100 or 200 setting, this prevents a lot of the issues you have in those pictures. Good effort though.

I heard somewhere its impossible to do astrophotography with a dobsonian telescope so I have not bothered getting a camera, thanks for the feedback though I will take that into account for the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard somewhere its impossible to do astrophotography with a dobsonian telescope so I have not bothered getting a camera, thanks for the feedback though I will take that into account for the future.

If you want to get half decent luna images with your dob, use a point and shoot digital camera and an A-focal camera bracket http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/skywatcher-universal-camera-adapter.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to get half decent luna images with your dob, use a point and shoot digital camera and an A-focal camera bracket http://www.firstligh...ra-adapter.html

Woah that looks like a crazy little thing!! :D Thanks for the link though, I can borrow a fujifilm finepix s2950 from someone, will that camera be okay?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard somewhere its impossible to do astrophotography with a dobsonian telescope so I have not bothered getting a camera, thanks for the feedback though I will take that into account for the future.

Nothing is impossible, it is just not possible for long period exposures, but as the Moon only requires shutter speeds in the 1/125th second region (depending on camera and scope) the limitations of an undriven Dob are removed. In fact you can get exposures up to about 30 secs before noticeable trails occur. I have taken images with unguided scopes and simply stacked multiple short exposures to get the desired image...you can take 50-60 10 sec exposures of an object and stack them with the right software and end up with a reasonable image. Just takes a lot of messing about and practice to get it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.