Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Psychobilly]

if i"m not mistaken, most EOS T2 adaptors have 3 grub screws that can be removed to reveal an M48 thread for filters to be screwed on.

Alistair

Most T - adaptors split apart by loosening the three grub screws - to reveal a dovetail like arrangement... the two part design allowed you to rotate the lens after it was screwed into the adaptor make sure that the focus index marks ended up in the right place - the top when screwed in...

Peter...

[Gina]

The one I've got doesn't have a thread in it.

[Tf2k]

Thanks. Why did you feel you had to use the wooden tool? wasn't it enough with a microfiber after applying the solvent??

Is it difficult to remove the glass in a nikon D80? I'm waiting for a sensor to arrive and have a go.

Many thanks

The microfiber did not remove everything of the CFA, as mentioned some posts before. Could be that i was too impatient, happens a bit often these days.

Removing the Cover Glass:

Didn't tried heat or anything else on the D80 Sensor, so i took the hard way, smashing the Glass.

It is a bit difficult, because the D80 has wires on every side of the sensor. So you can't get a lever on at a side to remove the glass, like on the Nikon D40.

But there are some spaces, where you can get safely between Sensor and glass.

Did a round cut with a glass cutter to make sure the glass will break where i want it to.

Then, did a gently "tip" with the head of the glass cutter on the middle of the glass, to make it break. (Be careful, don't be too harsh, we dont want to break the sensor).

As soon as you get a little space between the glass and the Sensor, you can start prying off the glass.

I am searching for my pictures of the sensor, but it seems i lost them somewhere on my HDD.

Image taken with Nikon D80, not completely debayered (but stopped to work on that sensor):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11450954/DSC_7807.NEF

Good Luck! With your D80 Sensor.

Two next D40 Sensors arrived today, lets get to my last debayering round tomorrow.

(I hope, this time with success)

[Gina]

I've found my other working 1100D BUT... Now I have to have the patience not to attack the cover glass until I'm completely in the mood, not feeling tired (oh dear, that's never then ) not had a bad night, no meals pending in the next hour etc. etc. and maybe had some more more practice on other cameras. This "sensor destruction" pasttime is beginning to get expensive and the rewards have been somewhat lacking so far...

[Gina]

Faulty 300D came this morning. How trying to get it apart Someone's already been inside - found one screw with worn screwdriver hole, inside a ribbon cable (MB to back panel) loose and one connector clip broken. No battery so will have to connect bench PSU inside.

[Gina]

Got inside alright and removed sensor unit. Got inside that and removed sensor itself. Attacked cover glass with craft knife and after going round removing excess glue it gradually turned white - easy peasy Then I carefully went round again applying tension to the joint. After a little while... "ping" off it popped - all looking well. So I put the sensor aside and attacked the frame and filter, working around both sides of that with the craft knife until I got it out. My word, it's THICK - over 2mm I'd say. I've now put sensor assembly back together then screwed it back into camera. Now I just (??) need to get to the battery connections, put everything back together and see if I can get the camera to work. I wanted the filter out so that I could use the frame as a guide for debayering and protecting the fine gold wires.

[Gina]

Come to a problem reassembling the camera. There's a broken connector that I don't think I can repair - the ribbon cable won't stay connected and without that the camera is useless. OTOH it's probable that the sensor is alright so worth it for that. It's just that I will need a working camera if I want to test the sensor. Mind you, if I were to succeed in debayering both sensors I could sell a mono camera and a mono replacement sensor I have a used but working 300D in my sights

[JamesF]

No chance of fixing it in place with some hot-melt glue or something like that?

James

[Gina]

No chance of fixing it in place with some hot-melt glue or something like that?

James

It might be Worth a try perhaps. The working 300D I was bidding for fetched too much for me - £108 + carriage. I'll see if I can get my camera working.

[Gina]

I think the sensor ribbon is secure with a blob of hot melt glue either side of the connector. Whether the connections are alright remains to be seen

I have the camera back together and have made up a "battery eliminator" to replace the battery. A piece of strip board, cut to size and with wires soldered on that makes contact with the battery contacts - help in place with a lump of foam rubber (piece of flooring tile ). I removed the rubber bung at the side and led the wires out as designed. Power was supplied from my bench PSU at 7.8v and when switched on the camera drew about 200mA - rather more than later models.

I tried to straighten the bent CF card pin but it broke off and fell out. There is nothing stopping a CF card being inserted now and I'm just wondering out if the camera will recognise the presence of a card. ATM it won't take a photo due to "No CF Card" it says. I can't find a menu option to let it run without - like I have on some other models. I'll try that shortly - and running off my netbook.

[Gina]

I have put an empty CF card in and it's been recognised and seems to work but I'm getting a blank image. So I think the sensor connection isn't working or there's something wrong with the sensor. I'll strip it down again later and see if anything can be done.

[badgerchap]

Well this thread has been running for a while! Interesting stuff though

[Gina]

Been thinking more about getting the cover glass off the 1100D sensor. Mark of JTW Astronomy (Rottweiler) says heat is the only way and may well be right. I'm thinking that if I were to apply less heat than I did before with my little hot air gun and DIY nozzle, very carefully and not enough to produce visible results, then I might weaken the bond enough to use the tip of my craft knife to gradually break the bond. Rather hit and miss though...

[Gina]

I've stripped the 1100D down and removed the sensor assembly complete with cold finger then removed the filter housing revealing the cover glass ready for action later. Although tempted, I'm not tackling it tonight. Need to be fresh and have plenty of light. All put safely away in a box for now.

[astromerlin]

I've stripped the 1100D down and removed the sensor assembly complete with cold finger then removed the filter housing revealing the cover glass ready for action later. Although tempted, I'm not tackling it tonight. Need to be fresh and have plenty of light. All put safely away in a box for now.

Hi Gina, If I remember rightly, the last sensor you tried to remove the cover glass with heat you still had the cold finger on and said it was very hot and the sensor didn't survive. I suggest that you remove the cold finger from the sensor so It does not conduct heat through the sensor.

Another thought is to apply a dab of heatsink compound to the center of the cover glass and rest a small block of aluminium on it so that any heat you apply will be conducted through the glass towards the aluminium and away from the sensor.

[Gina]

Hi Gina, If I remember rightly, the last sensor you tried to remove the cover glass with heat you still had the cold finger on and said it was very hot and the sensor didn't survive. I suggest that you remove the cold finger from the sensor so It does not conduct heat through the sensor.

I think the problem was that I overdid it with the heat - a lot!. I would have thought that removing heat from the sensor and lowering it's temperature, would be a good idea.

Another thought is to apply a dab of heatsink compound to the center of the cover glass and rest a small block of aluminium on it so that any heat you apply will be conducted through the glass towards the aluminium and away from the sensor.

Sorry to disagree (again) but I think that would put thermal stress on the glass and encourage cracking.

[astromerlin]

Your quite welcome to disagree, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread so far and crossing my fingers that you suceed. I'm sure I would have given up a few sensors back.

ATB

[Gina]

Thank you John

Action planned for today - my mood is good and I feel fine, no pressure so I'm going to attempt 1100D cover glass removal

[Gina]

I've started Couldn't find the little copper nozzle I'd made so had to make up a new one. I think this one is a bit better. The hole in the end is 3mm diameter and I applied the hot air right on the glass above the bond for a couple of seconds. I started with the corner and let it cool then I proceeded slowly along the edge for about 3 seconds. By the time I got half way I saw a change in the bond. At that point I stopped. I checked the sensor frame and cold finger and it was barely warm to the touch.

This photo shows the sensor assembly and cold finger placed on a 5mm thick aluminium plate. The heat treatment was on the cover glass at the top and towards the left. I started with the top right corner (as in the pic) and then from the corner towards the left. The unit was arranged to show the change in the bond to it's best - in the sunshine.

[Luis Campos]

One more with the mono Canon 350D with tec cooling, NGC 6960 the Witche's broom nebula, it's just 8x7 min. @ 800 ISO:

Cheers,

Luís

[Gina]

Great image Luis Fantastic detail and looks good for S/N

[Gina]

My 1100D sensor is still working well I put it back in the camera and replaced main board etc. Tested with netbook and EOS Utility. So far so good

[Luis Campos]

Great image Luis Fantastic detail and looks good for S/N

Thank you Gina

[Luis Campos]

My 1100D sensor is still working well I put it back in the camera and replaced main board etc. Tested with netbook and EOS Utility. So far so good

Good to hear that, this time it will work!

Good luck!

[Gina]

Thank you Luis Here's hoping I'm feeling more confident this time - and taking my time