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1100D DIY filter removal

palebluedot

By palebluedot
in Discussions - Cameras

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palebluedot

palebluedot

Posted
Posted

I finally sat down and modded my 1100D this morning and got a little more than I bargained for. On the whole it was fairly straight forward and Gary Honis' instructions were pretty sound except for one critical part. When it came to removing the low pass filter (which I intended to keep) the description given was that it was glued in at 4 points, this was not the case for me and it was secured along the entire edge with adhesive, and when I tried to pry it out as instructed it cracked. Not the end of the world as it is dedicated to astro, but I would have liked to have retained some protection for the sensor. Also, I was surprised at how soft the screws were, anyone attempting beware that it is easy to strip the tops of the screws off.

All done now, weather is looking good for this evening so I might get to try it out.

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Gina

Gina

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Great :) Well done :( You'll need an IR blocking filter for normal AP. I shall be doing the full filter removal before long and be getting an IR block filter. Best option is to get an Astronomik clip filter I believe. An IR block clip filter will stop dirt getting in as well as stopping the IR. That's what I'm going to do.

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ghonis

ghonis

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Hi Lee,

Congratulations on your successful modification!

The link you provided is not to the instructions for removing the 1100D filters. The instructions are HERE.

This is the wording of the step for removing the filter:

"24. Low-pass filter #1 is glued inside the plastic frame at four locations shown by the yellow arrows in the photo below. Use a razor knife to cut the adhesive along the side edge of the filter glass at these four locations. Use a small flat head driver to pry the filter up as shown in the photo. Work your way around the entire filter, applying only a little pressure to work the filter free. Do not apply too much pressure in order to avoid stressing or breaking the filter. Some adhesive is under the filter's edge so the filter needs to be worked loose by prying it up. When the filter is loose, remove it, wrap it in lens paper and place in a container for protection."

Were you following this instruction or the instruction on the page of the link you posted?

A good quality phillips driver of the correct size is needed to avoid rounding any screw heads.

Astronomik now has MC Clear Glass DSLR replacement filters in the size needed for the 1100D, so you can replace that cracked front filter if you want.

If you are not already a member, please consider joining my support group DSLRmodifications for discussions on DSLR modifications and cooling.

Looking forward to seeing your first light astro pics,

Gary Honis

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Gina

Gina

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Thanks Gina, I had the same idea regarding the clip filter, but going to go for the CLS. Will this not be sufficient?
Well sufficient I should say - considered that myself but the problem for me is the cost.
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Merlin66

Merlin66

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I have a FULL spectrum modded 1000D ie both filters removed.

Great for spectroscopy!

I can still use standard EF lenses by using an Astronomik MC clip in filter - to regain the lost optical thickness.

For astroimaging, yes, you'll need at least a UV-IR filter somewhere in the optical path.

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palebluedot

palebluedot

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Hi Gary, thanks for taking an interest in my mod. I was following the correct instructions, sorry for posting the wrong link. I must have completely missed the end of that paragraph where it tells you to work around the edge of the filter, I didn't intend to cast any aspersions, I just assumed that there might be minor differences between model revisions. I couldn't have done the mod at all without your instructions and it was a success even with my minor balls up.

In your opinion, do you think that I should put a clear filter in it's place?

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Gina

Gina

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Been searching the net for best price and delivery on CLS clip filters and it looks like Rother Valley Optics have a good price and I've used them before and had great service. I've taken the plunge and ordered one. I think this will be a better bet than just an IR block. We have fairly low LP here but there is some to the east and south. CLS filters seem to be more readily available than IR block alone.

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ghonis

ghonis

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Hi Gary, thanks for taking an interest in my mod. I was following the correct instructions, sorry for posting the wrong link. I must have completely missed the end of that paragraph where it tells you to work around the edge of the filter, I didn't intend to cast any aspersions, I just assumed that there might be minor differences between model revisions. I couldn't have done the mod at all without your instructions and it was a success even with my minor balls up.

In your opinion, do you think that I should put a clear filter in it's place?

Hi Lee,

I really appreciate the feedback. It allows me to improve the instructions to help others doing the mod. I have heard from one other modifier who had the filter break and I know from modifying many 1100Ds that the filter is difficult to remove. Based on your comment, I will revise the instruction to read: "There is adhesive under the entire filter's edge so the filter needs to be worked loose carefully by prying it up." Let me know if you think the wording could be better.

I know many remove both original filters and replace them with nothing. That disables the camera's autofocus from working correctly and also use of the optical viewfinder for focus. Focusing with liveview would still work because focusing is done on the imaging sensor. Most camera lenses will not reach focus at infinity if both flters are not replaced. Some camera lenses will be able to reach focus at infinity if a clip filter is added to the body. Adding a clip filter will not allow the camera's autofocus or optical viewfinder to work correctly because it is located in front of the flip mirror.

The other reason to replace with a clear filter is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime such as tree sap. Even worse, there have been reports on DSLRmodifications of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. You should be able to correct artifacts in long exposures caused by unremoval spots, grime or scratches if using a scope and taking flats, but they can be troublesome for normal photography with camera lenses at high f settings. They can be annoying as well when doing planetary imaging with barlows. With a front filter removed, you would need to clean the surface of the CMOS imaging sensor itself. It is placed further back in the camera body and is more difficult to clean. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly.

The advantage of not replacing both filters is the lower cost. If a clip-in type filter is kept inside the camera body, it would provide good protection of the imaging chip.

Gary Honis

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palebluedot

palebluedot

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Been searching the net for best price and delivery on CLS clip filters and it looks like Rother Valley Optics have a good price and I've used them before and had great service. I've taken the plunge and ordered one. I think this will be a better bet than just an IR block. We have fairly low LP here but there is some to the east and south. CLS filters seem to be more readily available than IR block alone.

Gina, I am not sure that this is the correct filter. There are two flavours; The CLS-Visual and CLS-CCD. The visual is cheaper than the CCD, does not contain an IR block and is designed for non-modified cameras, whereas the CLS-CCD has the IR block for cameras with the filters removed. I suspect from the low price and no mention of an IR block that this might be the Visual version. But then I do have form for not reading things properly, so correct me if I am wrong :)

They have both here.

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Gina

Gina

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Gina, I am not sure that this is the correct filter. There are two flavours; The CLS-Visual and CLS-CCD. The visual is cheaper than the CCD, does not contain an IR block and is designed for non-modified cameras, whereas the CLS-CCD has the IR block for cameras with the filters removed. I suspect from the low price and no mention of an IR block that this might be the Visual version. But then I do have form for not reading things properly, so correct me if I am wrong :mad:

They have both here.

Thanks for pointing that out :( You're right, I've just phoned RVO and they can get the CLS-CCD filter in, in a couple of days. As you say the CCD version is a bit more but RVO have quoted the about the same price as the firm you mention so I'll let RVO get it and pay them the extra. Thank you for your prompt reply - I was able to correct matters before they sent it :p It was me who read it wrongly - I have that problem too :)
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