Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Skywatcher 150PL owners. Tips and Mods

ChrisThePuma

Recommended Posts

ChrisThePuma

ChrisThePuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, so off i go...

Started by masking over the outside of the focusser area, and then lined the inside with tin foil, including blocking off the rest of the tube to stop bits/sparks heading to the main mirror or damaging the flocking (tip - if you havent done it yet, do the focusser mod before flocking),

Then i placed the baseplate on the tube and marked out the 4 holes to drill - drilled the holes (the metal is supprisingly hard/thick). After this i attached the baseplate and marked out the circle to allow the wider fucus tube in. It was hard to measure, but with some cunning calculations i worked out that you need a circle 8mm out all round from the existing one. So measure 8mm from the current hole, mark it and carry on around the hole and you will have a serias of dots to join up.

Drilling the multiple holes was easy enough just time consuming as there are lots of them.

I used my multi-tool file/metal saw rather than a mini hacksaw blade for ease of holding and joined up all the holes. Then used my friends dremel to grind the hole into a circle (this is when the sparks start to fly).

Once done i attached the baseplate again, attached the focusser and all good. I still need to tidy things up (dust the tube, remove any stray bits from the inside, then collimate and test it all works (no reason why it shouldnt)

All in all this was much more straight forward than i had expected (easier than the flocking) and took me just over the hour to do.

I should be able to finish the rest this evening, ready for some clear skys this weekend?

cheers

chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply
ChrisThePuma

ChrisThePuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi PM

If you mean this one:

Base for Newtonian focusers for tubes with D= 160-205mm

Yes it fits like a dream.

You will need longer bolts as detailed in my previous post. I currently have the 20mm ones in place but will double check this evening to see if i can get away with the 16mm ones as the 20mm ones do stick out a bit.

The focusser - you just remove the baseplate from the focusser (held on with allen screws) and the new base plate slips on perfectly and does up with allen screws.

its a suprisingly easy mod - with the correct tools.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ChrisThePuma

ChrisThePuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, cleaned everything up, got stray bits of sawdust off the flocking with doublesided tape, re-attached the spider and front rim and put the focusser on - it is great, fits really well.

Took the scope into the lounge to collimate (its brighter in there with a smooth plain wall to look at). Collimated ok (was a bit worried at first because it was miles out and i thought i had put the fucusser in position incorrectly) but all good.

Just need to wait for the cloud/fog to clear now to see if everything still works ok :-)

cheers

chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Parus major

Parus major

Posted
Posted
What is flocking all about? What does it do for the scope?

Welcome to the thread.

Flocking is about applying a matt black non-reflective coating to the inside of the telescope tube. The aim is to vastly reduce the amount of light bouncing around the inside and to actually colour the inside black instead of the bolt gun grey that passes for black.

In practice this should reduce glares, flares in the eyepiece end and increase overall contrast. This does actually work but just how apparent the results are is down to opinion. What is true is doing it will increase the desirability of it on the second hand market and it looks AWESOME.

I'm on the side of it working and working well, the difference looking down the tube is that now I have to angle the tube towards a light source to actually see anything other than the mirror.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
russ.will

russ.will

Posted
Posted
What is flocking all about? What does it do for the scope?

I've just flocked my 200p, but went with the option of only flocking parts of the tube visible from the EP, or through the focuser. That means the half of the tube opposite the focuser and about 200mm of tube up from the primary. Whilst I had the primary and secondary out, I 'blacked up' every visible edge of the two mirrors and the rear of the secondary with a permanent black marker pen.

The visible difference in viewing ain't small. M81 and 82 went from being visible, to surprisingly detailed. Whereas before you could tell which was which, you could now see the dust lane that bisects the Cigar galaxy and make out real structure in the Bode Galaxy.

This was not an imagined improvement, as this detail was seen on a night of seeing that was worse than the one previous. I could just see the sky glow of the next nearest village, which I couldn't on the clearer night before. This and the dew/light shield I made have easily been two of the most cost effective upgrades I have made. Total cost about £20 and a couple of hours of my time.

The flock, in my case, was this - scroll down a bit.

Russell

Link to comment
Share on other sites
russ.will

russ.will

Posted
Posted
Is it really difficult and a faff to do, could you not just paint/spray the inside with a matt black paint (I take it you have to take all the insides out to flock it anyway).

It honestly isn't that difficult, or much of a faff. Do it on a cloudy night and you will feel like you accomplished something, even if you just guaranteed it will be at least a couple of weeks before you can tell. I was lucky, on the nights I did it, but the payback seems to have rolled in now... ;)

Russell

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Parus major

Parus major

Posted
Posted

My tip for simplicity is to measure the circumference of the tube and cut the flock into just a bit too long pieces then cut those in half and do it with them. By far the most difficult bit was the middle but only because it was one whole piece. I did the end in two pieces and that went perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ChrisThePuma

ChrisThePuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi All

Here is an update on my scope - now with the dual-speed focusser in place.

I finally settled with the slightly shorter (16mm) bolts and these are just the right length.

Tip 1: If your scope is flocked before doing this mod, make sure you line the inside of the scope with tin foil to stop shavings/sparks/dust from messing up the flocking.

Tip 2: Make sure you clear a small patch of flocking around the inside where the focusser bolts are going to go so the nuts hit metal rather than the flocking. They will do up tighter and make the focusser more steady.

It is now a dream focussing on objects - rather than a 2mm turn going from out of focus into focus and back out again, i can now make sure it is really focused and it is far less frustrating going back and forwards wondering if i can get any better.

Well worth the effort and anguish of cutting into my nice shiny OTA - i recomend it to anyone - if i can do it (usually rubish at DIY) then you can. :icon_salut:

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GreatAttractor

GreatAttractor

Posted
Posted

Hello, I just recently got mine and have a few questions:

- What's the exact size of Allen bolts that adjust the secondary mirror?

- Has anyone used WO SWAN 20 mm with this scope?

- Will SW's motofocuser (aka "auto focuser") work with the 150PL's "vanilla" R&P? I've read it has mounting accessories for several types of SW focusers included.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
alientrader

alientrader

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I've had my 150pl for around 10 months now. Haven't yet flocked it but bought the SW 'auto-focuser' after a few weeks of having the 150pl (was a choice of a dual focuser with drilling or the 'auto-focuser', the drilling did not put me off, what put me off was the need to touch the focuser even with a dual focuser).

Anyway the 'auto-focuser' fitted on my stock 150pl focuser no problems. As many have said before it's truely amazing, zero scope wobble, not a tad. For visual I leave it on the 'fast' setting, for imaging I use the 'fast' setting to get what I think is focus then swith it to 'slow' and play around. It moves the focuser very very slow! Search for Dion's youtube vid reviewing it, you'll see just how finely it moves at 'slow' setting. I image with an spc900 for lunar/planetary and have just started using a dslr.

I personally would not consider a dual focuser as an upgrade after having the 'autofocuser' as that'll mean touching the tube.

I'm no expert, still a novice, but see my pics, www.alientrader.co.uk

and this is my latest DSO using a dslr

test03_12f_800x572.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
alientrader

alientrader

Posted
Posted

SW 'Auto focuser' was very easy to fit, came with a heavy duty small bracket that uses existing screwholes.

Recently I've been doing dslr long exposures and feel I feel to tighten up the focuser tube. I'll be doing this by sticking two or so strips of self adhesive teflon tape longways either into the tube or onto the eyepiece tube barrel.

(sorry, for some reason I can change my avator picture but no option of a signature)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
ChrisThePuma

ChrisThePuma

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ooh hi - i forgot all about this thread....

well...

over the summer i have motorised my EQ5 and am now chuffed that i done have to keep turning wheels to keep my target in view - the next mod needs to be an auto focusser as i am fed up with the wobbles everytime i focus.

Other bits and bobs i have "accumliated" are an SPC900 web cam, a couple of barlows and eyepieces (BST explorers)

All set up for some imaging now :-)

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.