Still having DSLR problems

[Bondred]

How do people set up there scopes for capturing images?

I am currently trying to capture images of the moon, if I use no barlow there is no way of getting focus and I just get a round circle with a black cross through it in the viewfinder of the camera.

If I use a x2 barlow, the zoom is too much and miss parts of the moon and cannot get a perfect focus, some part of the moon is always out of focus ruining the picture.

Is there a way of connecting the camera to a 10mm or 20mm eyepiece? or I am doing everything completely wrong?

Many thanks in advance.

Edit: This is my first effort after some touching up in photoshop

[Stephen]

It's just a problem with reflectors I'm afraid. (I presume you can't move the camera "in" enough)

Your best bet (for no investment) would be to stitch the images together with the barlow to make one image.

Options to fix using the DSLR without the barlow involve cost or modifying the telescope.

[Bondred]

It's just a problem with reflectors I'm afraid. (I presume you can't move the camera "in" enough)

Your best bet (for no investment) would be to stitch the images together with the barlow to make one image.

Options to fix using the DSLR without the barlow involve cost or modifying the telescope.

What are the options of using the DSLR without a Barlow?

I can't move it in or out enough

[Merlin66]

Either change the focuser to a "low profile" type - to gain that extra few mm

or

move the main mirror upwards within the tube to move the focus.....

[Stephen]

Well the problem is you can't get the camera close enough to the secondary without the barlow. To fix this you need to do one of the following :

1. Replace an adaptor / fitment with one that is of a lower profile (I don't know how you are connecting your DSLR to the scope. I'm not sure if this will give you enough room however.)
   
2. Move the primary mirror up the tube
   
3. Replace the focuser with a lower profile one
   

[Bondred]

Either change the focuser to a "low profile" type - to gain that extra few mm

or

move the main mirror upwards within the tube to move the focus.....

Well the problem is you can't get the camera close enough to the secondary without the barlow. To fix this you need to do one of the following :

1. Replace an adaptor / fitment with one that is of a lower profile (I don't know how you are connecting your DSLR to the scope. I'm not sure if this will give you enough room however.)
   
2. Move the primary mirror up the tube
   
3. Replace the focuser with a lower profile one
   

I am using T-adapters to connect the camera to a x2 Barlow and then connecting the barlow as normal to the scope.

As you know once the main lens of the camera is removed there is no way of focusing or zooming the camera, I am not scope or camera savvy at the moment and have no idea of the best way to overcome these obstacles and work around them to achieve the results I would like.

[gdheib0430]

I don't believe they sell a low pro focuser designed for a 130 I know they don't have them for my 3"....you can try and unscrew the focus eyepiece mount off the focuser and try just screwing the cameras T-adapter straight to the focuser...mine wasn't threaded right so I am going to try and just place the camera on the focuser, obtain the right focus and just tape the mount tightly on the focuser...if that doesn't work I am just going to continue taking wide field photos until I get my mono ccd and then try my dslr again when I finally upgrade to 200mm

[Stephen]

There's an argument that says if you are trying to "zoom" with a DSLR, you're doing it wrong Barlows remove the problem (usually) of insufficient inwards movement of the telescope focuser. It's not really how it's done though.

You need to use one of the techniques we have described in order to get your DSLR to focus on your telescope - you then can image without needing the Barlow.

[Stephen]

I don't believe they sell a low pro focuser designed for a 130 I know they don't have them for my 3"....you can try and unscrew the focus eyepiece mount off the focuser and try just screwing the cameras T-adapter straight to the focuser...mine wasn't threaded right so I am going to try and just place the camera on the focuser, obtain the right focus and just tape the mount tightly on the focuser...if that doesn't work I am just going to continue taking wide field photos until I get my mono ccd and then try my dslr again when I finally upgrade to 200mm

Fair point, I didn't know there wasn't a focuser - moving the mirror would be the best bet (I have scary visions of duck taped DSLRs!!!!)

[gdheib0430]

Fair point, I didn't know there wasn't a focuser - moving the mirror would be the best bet (I have scary visions of duck taped DSLRs!!!!)

All good only reason I knew is I just got done looking it up for my scope as I just started the whole dslr thing as well...to be honest before you look at moving your mirror...this is your current setup...focuser/ep-mount/t-mount/t-adapter/camera . the reason like stated you can't focus is because you are too far out with the camera...take away the ep-mount and t-mount and screw the t-adapter straight to the focuser....this will lower your camera's distance to the focal point to the same place as what your eye pieces are at...this will allow you to focus the camera properly. Your 130 should have the same threads as the t-adapter on your camera. If not, probably best to stick with a camera lense and either get a ccd or just save up for an 8" scope so you can get a nice low pro focuser for it.

[Bondred]

All good only reason I knew is I just got done looking it up for my scope as I just started the whole dslr thing as well...to be honest before you look at moving your mirror...this is your current setup...focuser/ep-mount/t-mount/t-adapter/camera . the reason like stated you can't focus is because you are too far out with the camera...take away the ep-mount and t-mount and screw the t-adapter straight to the focuser....this will lower your camera's distance to the focal point to the same place as what your eye pieces are at...this will allow you to focus the camera properly. Your 130 should have the same threads as the t-adapter on your camera. If not, probably best to stick with a camera lense and either get a ccd or just save up for an 8" scope so you can get a nice low pro focuser for it.

What is a CCD?

[cosmological]

Your best option would be something like this Universal Camera Adapter.

[Stephen]

Your best option would be something like this Universal Camera Adapter.

I think you may of misunderstand the OPs issues here. That's not an appropriate tool.

[Shibby]

If you're really interested in astrophotography, I wouldn't bother with a low profile focuser anyway to be honest - it will cost more than your telescope OTA is worth. Which is why I upgraded to a 150DPS very soon after buying my original 130P. The DPS range is specifically designed to avoid the in-focus problems you are having. For now, your only options are those that the other posters have stated.

Is there a way of connecting the camera to a 10mm or 20mm eyepiece? or I am doing everything completely wrong?

I tried eyepiece projection once but the results were awful.

[cosmological]

I think you may of misunderstand the OPs issues here. That's not an appropriate tool.

You can capture an image of the moon with that. While not ideal but it would be a cheaper alternative to modifying the telescope.

[spaceboy]

If you're really interested in astrophotography, I wouldn't bother with a low profile focuser anyway to be honest - it will cost more than your telescope OTA is worth. Which is why I upgraded to a 150DPS very soon after buying my original 130P. The DPS range is specifically designed to avoid the in-focus problems you are having. For now, your only options are those that the other posters have stated.

.

Ditto the above.

[Bondred]

If you're really interested in astrophotography, I wouldn't bother with a low profile focuser anyway to be honest - it will cost more than your telescope OTA is worth. Which is why I upgraded to a 150DPS very soon after buying my original 130P. The DPS range is specifically designed to avoid the in-focus problems you are having. For now, your only options are those that the other posters have stated.

I tried eyepiece projection once but the results were awful.

So what would you say is my best option for now?

[Stephen]

You can capture an image of the moon with that. While not ideal but it would be a cheaper alternative to modifying the telescope.

How would you seat a DSLR + lens on the back of that? It's only just big enough to hold a compact isn't it?

So what would you say is my best option for now?

It really depends on where you want to go with this, but as said above a fair few have just sold the 130s on and moved to a 150 or 200.

[John_New]

I had a similar problem with my skywatcher 150p. With this scope it is possible to reattach your t adapter by removing part of the focuser Sorry if this sounds obvious but it took me ages to spot. Good luck.

[Capricorn]

CCD simply refers to the type of sensor that is the camera imaging bit.

CCD stands for Charge Coupled Device.

Used to be (maybe still is) CID = Charge Injection Device.

The two types "take" the data off from the chip differently to process it, and I cannot remember what they are.

Basically CCD = Camera sensor.

[Spackbackle]

Hey Bondred,

I had the same problem when I had a SW130 scope and tried to attached my DSLR. Not wanting to risk some of the mods mentioned above to make it work I gave up an purchased a Philips SPC900 webcam. It achieved focus very easily and I even managed to get some pics of jupiter that showed some banding. Full lunar shots where mosiacs of about 7 images i think.

It certainly is a cheaper way of getting some images if you dont want to take the chance and fork out £££'s for a new scope. If you did then decide to upgrade to a new scope (as i did!!) depending on you new scope the webcam can still be used for planetry imaging so it wouldn't be a waste of an investment!

Not sure if this is your best bet or not, it depends on what you want to get out of this as a hobby, but having taken this route myself I dont have any regrets.

Hope this helps, sorry if it doesn't!!

stu

[FrankieValley]

I had a similar problem with my skywatcher 150p. With this scope it is possible to reattach your t adapter by removing part of the focuser Sorry if this sounds obvious but it took me ages to spot. Good luck.

The above may be the solution for a xxxP, but possibly not a P and a Pentax. The 1.25" nosepiece should unscrew to reveal a low profile T thread and I know you can get T mount rings that will attach to the T thread for Canon/Nikon, but don't think you can for a Pentax.

[Bondred]

Hey Bondred,

I had the same problem when I had a SW130 scope and tried to attached my DSLR. Not wanting to risk some of the mods mentioned above to make it work I gave up an purchased a Philips SPC900 webcam. It achieved focus very easily and I even managed to get some pics of jupiter that showed some banding. Full lunar shots where mosiacs of about 7 images i think.

It certainly is a cheaper way of getting some images if you dont want to take the chance and fork out £££'s for a new scope. If you did then decide to upgrade to a new scope (as i did!!) depending on you new scope the webcam can still be used for planetry imaging so it wouldn't be a waste of an investment!

Not sure if this is your best bet or not, it depends on what you want to get out of this as a hobby, but having taken this route myself I dont have any regrets.

Hope this helps, sorry if it doesn't!!

stu

That sounds a good idea, the scope is new, so I wont be upgrading for a long while yet. Are there any places that sell that cam cheap?

[Stephen]

The above may be the solution for a xxxP, but possibly not a P and a Pentax. The 1.25" nosepiece should unscrew to reveal a low profile T thread and I know you can get T mount rings that will attach to the T thread for Canon/Nikon, but don't think you can for a Pentax.

You can

[Stephen]

That sounds a good idea, the scope is new, so I wont be upgrading for a long while yet. Are there any places that sell that cam cheap?

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