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About FrankieValley

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  1. Can I ask that you stop picking holes (or not), in people's understanding and help Sara overcome the problem she posted. Thanks.
  2. Oh, absolutely. Forgive me for typing so fast as to be inaccurate.
  3. Not sure how DSS works in practice, but essentially, subtract bias from darks and flats to make master dark and master flat. Then subtract bias, master dark and master flat from your lights. It can be even more complicated..... but I tend to leave it there!!
  4. Yes, subtract flats, bias and darks from your light frames, but also subtract the bias when you make up the flat.
  5. It is a good idea to use a bias control frame to remove the bias from all your flat subs before stacking and making your flat control frame. That way, any gradient caused by the camera bias will be eliminated from the flat. My Canon 1000D shows a gradient across the ccd in a bias frame.
  6. I hope he got the ladder thrown in for free! What a whopper!
  7. I thought I'd leave out the flat frames, that were introducing vignetting, from the DSO's above and spend some more time post-processing to see if there was anything to improve on. I think there was. I must say I'm very impressed with the Atik314L+ considering M1, M81 & M82 were just 6x2min subs - much less noise than I was expecting. I guess that's what you get with a sensitive chip, less noisy electronics and set-point cooling.
  8. Hi, I had a good night of imaging last night and I thought I'd share the results with you for thoughts, comments and suggestions. Equipment used for DSO's was my new Atik 314L+ (colour), purchased at a bargain price from Astrofest. This is my first cooled camera. Scope is my trusty 250PDS on NEQ6, guided by a Lodestar through an OAG with Baader MPCC. The OAG guiding part, I am still a novice at and this was made all the more tricky because I decided to do away with the ST4 cable and ascom pulse guide for the first time. Talk about trying to bite off more than I can chew! The planets were taken
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