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StuartT

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Everything posted by StuartT

  1. StuartT
    sorry. problem solved. Pls delete post
  2. StuartT
    that sounds fine to me Louis. Totally take the point about sweating tho! I wear a hat and use a cloth around my head for viewing
  3. StuartT
    Right. So it is the wedge itself that's the potential concern, rather than the OTA. That's good. I think I can live with the wedge heating up. I'm about to upgrade from a 90mm to a 150mm frac so I don't really want to have to buy the 2" wedge when I already have the 1.25" one.. unless it absolutely necessary.
  4. StuartT
    Thanks, but I am using just a USB A to USB B cable. So no drivers to update, i think
  5. StuartT
    Ok, i tried connecting the usb direct to the mount and now COM3 shows up in my windows device manager, but the ASCOM telescope chooser won't let me select COM3 (I assume I need to have ascom connected up right?) All this stuff is SO massively confusing
  6. StuartT
    Thanks for sharing this thread Stu. So just to be clear, even a 150mm refractor would potentially be ok with a 1.25" wedge? i.e. without any objective filter on it? Are objective filters ever necessary on refractors? I guess I am just worried about heating up the tube with so much aperture, but maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily
  7. StuartT
    Ok, I have a new EQ6R Pro and I can seem to get this connection to work. I am using the USB cable that came with the mount (Type A to Type B ) and plugging the type B end into the hand controller. But the stellarium plug-in doesn't seem able to see the mount
  8. StuartT
    I have the Lunt 1.25" on a 90mm achro and it works really nicely. I also use a Baader continuum filter. For larger apertures they recommend the 2" version (presumably you would get a LOT more heat building up with a 150mm)
  9. StuartT
    I see focusers designated as 2” or 3.5” etc, but I’m not sure what is being measured. If it’s the diameter at the front, surely that would depend on the size of the OTA it’s fitting into? But if it’s the diameter of the back end then surely that would need to match a standard eyepiece size (1.5” or 2”) Can anyone help? thanks
  10. StuartT
    having the guide scope off to one side means you can't get a perfect balance on your mount (as the guide scope's centre of gravity is not lined up vertically with that of the scope). Using rings allows you to 'roll' the scope about its longitudinal axis and line them up. See this video
  11. StuartT
    Good point. A longer bar would probably be a better idea
  12. StuartT
    Yes. The Esprit 80 comes with a dovetail shoe and the EQ6 AZ has a dual saddle which will accept either Losmandy or Vixen dovetail bars. So you're good to go https://www.firstlightoptics.com/esprit-professional-refractors/skywatcher-esprit-ed-80-pro-triplet.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/equatorial-astronomy-mounts/skywatcher-az-eq6-mount.html
  13. StuartT
    I also got one from Cases and Enclosures.
  14. StuartT
    Dismantle Lens, Service motor locating track Remove excess grease from motor track Reassemble and test Cost: £85.00 VAT: £17.00 Total: £102.00 The lens was unusable before and now is as good as new
  15. StuartT
    Skears did a great job fixing the autofocus on my Canon zoom. Good price and fast service. Top recommendation 🙂
  16. StuartT
    thanks again everyone for your time and expertise. Full disclosure - I can tend to get terribly tempted by the notion of buying a load of fancy stuff in the hope of that alone delivering great results, rather than going more slowly and carefully and properly learning the craft step by step and then evaluating what I genuinely need and could make proper use of. I have poor impulse control, basically 🤣 On balance, I think I need to do a good amount of acutal astrophotography using the gear I've already got (incl focal reducer on the way). Then re-evaluate.
  17. StuartT
    this looks very interesting! It sure talks the talk. Anyone else have experience of this camera? good review here https://astrobackyard.com/altair-hypercam-183c-review/
  18. StuartT
    sorry, supplementary question.. most people seem to shoot video and stack the frames (rather than shot individual RAW files like I've been doing so far). So is it possible to do that with a DSLR also? i.e. use canon's native video format in something like Deep Sky Stacker?
  19. StuartT
    yes, I know my existing camera can be modded, but I want to keep that for daytime photography and the filter removals can cause problems with that, I gather
  20. StuartT
    wow!
  21. StuartT
    Ok, I think being practical I am still very much starting out so it might not be wise to spend a lot up front until I know a) I can actually master the technology and b) it sticks with me and is not a passing fad So I think I'll look for a modded camera in the first instance. I guess a decent quality APS-C would do the job (a three digit EOS) Thanks very much for your advice.
  22. StuartT
    I have a DSLR that I have been starting out with, but I want all that nice red stuff so am thinking about buying a modded DSLR for astrophotography (as I don't want to mess up my regular camera). But then I thought, why not just buy an actual astro camera (CCD or CMOS). Advice please.... modded DSLR (only used for astro) or actual astro camera? Thanks
  23. StuartT
    Actually, I don't think I got any instructions with it! At least, if I did, I didn't read them. It's so easy to use, I can't really think why you'd need instructions. It's an absolute delight!
  24. StuartT
    Hi. I think what I was meaning is that many people have told me that an f/10 scope is not really ideal for astrophotography without guiding. Not that it is impossible, of course. So, I have ordered a 0.63 reducer with which I hope to be able to get reasonable 1 minute subs.
  25. StuartT
    perfect! thanks
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