Budgie1

I've run a weather station since 2007, both here in Fort William and previously in the Western Isles. I have a dedicated PC which runs all the weather software and uploads to my website (click on the banner in my sig' below). It also includes a lightning detector, aircraft radar and forecasting software, called WXSIM, which produces a 5 day forecast for my own location using GFS & my weather station data. Strangely, Storm Dunlop published one of my photos (see below) for another one his books, just called "Sky" back in 2009.

I use the Pegasus Pocket Powerbox Advance on my rig and it just works. I have it powering the mount, ASI1600MM Pro + filterwheel, ASI220mm guide camera and two dew heaters, all from a 12v 10a PSU. It means I only have the power lead and a USB3 cable running to the pier and everything else is on the mount. It you don't want to go that far and don't need the USB hub, then there's also the Pegasus Pocket Powerbox Micro, which has 4x 12v power sockets and 2x RCA sockets for dew heaters.

ZWO do a replacement fans, which may be better quality than the spares you have: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-cooling-fan-for-pro-series-cameras.html

I have a set of Alt bolts like THESE, with the ratchet type handle for under the polar scope, and there is enough space (without the polar scope cover) and I'm at nearly 57°N. I actually cut about 10mm off the North facing bolt to give more clearance from the counter weights.

This is exactly what I did, went outside and looked North but saw nothing other than a few clouds and stars. It wasn't until I turned around to go back into the house that I saw the purple aurora in an East to Southeasterly direction, above the roofline. A direction I've not seen it from before, either living here in Fort William or when I lived in the Western Isles. So don't take it from granted that it'll always be towards the North!

If you live above 56°N, then it's two & half months of Twilight all Night (TAN), so time to fettle with the kit ready for mid-August, when you can start imaging again.

If you really want to catch the best of it then go with 1.0 to 2.0s exposures every 10 seconds. Every 30s will mean you miss too much as it's changing all the time, it can move quite fast and also has periods of strong & weaker light.

Nice show from here in Fort William, although normally we get the Aurora from the North. Tonight is was overhead and more towards the Southeast. Anyway, here's some shots from tonight using Canon 2000D at ISO 800 and ISO400 for 10 seconds.

There's also the Baader Solar Filters (50mm & 60mm filters in stock) and other types of solar filter can be found on THIS PAGE.

Mine was made from the corrugated plastic box our greenhouse kit arrived in, and some gaffer tape to hold it all together. The gaffer tape has lasted 3 years so far and not needed to be replaced. The plan I used was copied from here: https://www.dewbuster.com/dewshield-laptop.html Only mine has a base panel added to it, so the weight of the laptop stops the wind from catching the cover and blowing it off the desk.

Good tip, Pete. The insulation I have now works really well in hot weather, keeping the temperature down inside the obsy. I wonder if I can find some polystyrene sheeting that can cover the current stuff to stop the condensation.

I couldn't agree more, Jim. And it's not just the reduction in the setup time, the fact that when the clouds come over you just have to park the scope and roll the roof over. There's no rushed tearing down of the rig to get it back inside before the rain starts or having cables trailed across the garden, like I used to have. I also find it less frustrating than I used too, if the clouds roll in just after your first image (or before it). Before I used to pack everything away and call it a night, now I park it, roll the roof over and wait to see if it clears again. This has given me more imaging time in total, even if I only get a few subs in a night.

For anyone reading this thread and thinking about building their own ROR Obsy, cost is obviously a large factor in the process. I totted up what I've spent on it to date on this one, right down to the nuts, washers, threaded bar and even the caps for the nuts on the pier. Everything mentioned in this thread to this point is included. Using the prices I paid at the time (2022/2023 prices), the total cost of the Obsy is £1858.82. For what I've ended up with, I'm really surprised (& pleased) that it's all come in at under £2K. I know that not everyone is willing or able to do a self-build, but I hope this shows what can be achieved for less than the cost of a ZWO ASI2600MC Duo.

I've got 50mm WO guide scope or Evoguide 50 I can use with it. The ASI294MC is a little undersampled but it should be fine. The other option I was considering was the Esprit 100, but that's a lot slower at f5.5 and I think it'll be too heavy.

So, my imaging rig to date has been using refractors, Evostar 100ED DS Pro, Evostar 80ED DSO Pro & WO Zenith 73 III, which has been alright but the number of clear nights seems to be getting fewer and the West Coast of Scotland isn't renowned for it's temperate rain forests because it's very dry! So that I can try to get the most out of the clear nights we do get, I would like to upgrade to a faster scope and I'm thinking about the RASA 8, which should suit my ASI294MC Pro but I'm not too sure about the weight on the HEQ5. My HEQ5 is about 3 years old, has the Rowan belt conversion fitted and is mounted on a solid concrete pier (see my Obsy build thread for details). With the RASA 8, ASI294MC Pro, dew shield & guide scope & camera (I would rather have guiding than not) then it's getting very close to the maximum imaging payload for the HEQ5. I know it could really do with the EQ6-R or similar, but I can't justify changing the mount & scope, and there's no point just changing the mount and sticking with the scopes I already have. So, has anyone got or used a RASA 8 on the HEQ5 and how did it handle? Any issues balancing the rig and did you use a guide scope or not? Thanks for any advise.