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About Realtimedoctor

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  1. Hey, any chance you'd sell the coma corrector separately?
  2. PM sent if the coma corrector is still available!
  3. Bump up with pictures Now also including TEC cooler for £300 in total. Plus shipping. The TEC cooler is fully removable - there are two copper shims inside the camera body on the sensor plate to help cooling. There are small heat sinks on the LCD well over which the TEC cooler attaches for cooling. Controlled with a temp controller. Cools the camera to a degree above dew point in about 30-45mins. I've also included some pictures shot with the camera, and the capability of TEC cooler. As you can see, the camera sensor temp only reads 16* even after almost two hours of continuous shooting. Pictures are light frames only. I'm too lazy to shoot darks or flats
  4. With all due respect, but a lot of information in this is not correct. 1. A Standard 200P will do just fine with prime focus imaging. You don't need to move the mirror up or down anywhere in the scope. (the 200P comes standard with a T2 thread for direct attachment to a T2 adaptor) 2. You don't need to add any extensions tube for visual if switching between camera and eye pieces. 3. I've DSLR, guidecam, auto focuser and a tec cooling device all attached to the 200P and mounted on a EQ5. Last session over 3 hours of 5 mins subs, I discarded 3 subs in total. Not sure where you are getting the 40% number from. 4. I agree EQ5 and 200P are more suitable for visual astronomy, but payload of a mount isnt everything. You need to factor in your pixel scale of your setup, and if that is under your guided RMS there is no reason why you can't get the same image with this setup instead of a ££££ setup.
  5. I ordered an arduino uno from ebay - £3.59 And motor controller shield from Ali express - £2.20 RJ-10 cable - 4.50 Had a spare 12v 2A adapter from an old BT box. The build is very simple, though might require you to tinker with the code a little bit. Depending on how the pins are arranged in your motor shield. Took me a total of 1 hour to get everything connected and running. Though, if you are doing this I'd suggest getting a cheap NEMA stepper motor off ebay/Ali express as that will massively improve the autofocus routine, plus a consistently repeatable performance, unlike a DC motor. My PA is usually under 2-3 arc minutes. I guide in both directions, with good PA I've had very smooth Dec graph, but my RA often jumps a bit now and again. About tuning the mount, I didn't no anything more than adjusting the worm gears, as my mount is still under warranty so don't want to open it up just yet. You can probably get a better performance out of it, if you tune it up more extensively with better grease and bearings. One reason I automated my setup, is because I work mad number of hours, and have a mad work rota. The RPi helps me fully automate the whole process, if I know the weather is going to be fine overnight. I just turn everything on, sequence the setup on EKOS and, forget about it,until next morning when I just shut down everything and cover the mount up. Ready for next session whenever the weather is good. I hope that helps.
  6. In increasing order! Bodes 45sec subs - unguided Pinwheel - 60 & 75sec subs - Unguided Crescent - 3 min subs - Guided avg RMS 0.82" Veil Nebula - 5 min subs - Guided avg RMS 1.22" When I started guiding, had a few issues with Dec and calibration - "large Dec backlash error on Phd2" - frustrating night to say the least. Tuned the worm gears next day as much as I could on both axis, balanced the scope, and haven't had much issues with guiding. I only lost 3 frames over the course of 3 hours shooting 5 min subs . All of which were due to the fact mount failed to settle down after dithering and was still jumping around a bit when the exposure started.
  7. I've been a ghost member of this forum for some months now. I'd just like to show the newcomers into this hobby like me, that you don't need to spend a fortune to get acceptable results. My setup is what most would classify as inappropriate. (scope and mount combo) I'll list my setup and price for each, and share a sample picture. Just because I believe a cheap setup is the perfect way to start in this hobby, as there is so much to learn, and it's not easy! I'd not want to spend 1000s and not able to fully utilise it. Whereas if you get into this on the cheaper(relatively speaking) , and then you can upgrade to a better set up which will enable you to maximise your chances of using that ££££ mount/scope/camera to its full potential. Few things on this setup is according to me, just luxury items, and absolutely don't need to have them. If you are just starting out. Setup Scope 200P skywatcher £269 Mount - EQ5 - self upgraded with Synscan Goto = £580 Guidecam - ZWO 120MM-S on the 9x50 finderscope £180 Main camera - Canon 600D (did the astromod myself) £159 Skywatcher auto focuser - £45 (luxury item) Raspberry Pi - £60 (luxury item) DIY arduino focuser controller - £10 (in parts and wires) -(luxury item) USB Hub - £15 Utility box - £6 (All my automation and wires run to this box, I've four wires that go out of this box to the mount. Saves a lot of time when setting up) DIY telescope cover - £30 in material (luxury item) Miscellaneous cables £50 Total Expense - £1404 Now this a an almost automated setup! The only thing I do manually, is remove the covers and pulg in the electric socket. Results below. These are compressed images(plus I still don't have a coma corrector so some are cropped) Both galaxies are Unguided shots Both nebulae are guided shots Thanks for reading through, welcome any criticism and comments
  8. Selling my astromodified canon 600D, has served me well over the years. I'm planning on buying a dedicated camera now. Under 15000 actuation. Price £250 + shipping *note this is not a full spectrum mod, the original LPF1 filter is still in the camera*
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