skipgazer

Interesting thought on the filter and CC, thanks. Worth a try. I have completely nailed my flats now, using the Ekos automation and exposing for 4". They've made no difference. I also thought it might be a power issue because I was using a 12v splitter into the power bank. Removed that. Made no difference. So, yes pared down to basics next. Unfortunately we have clouds forecast forever . . .

Well, here's a short stack (less than eight minutes) on a bright target, with the middle stretched. No flats, no darks, so they're not the problem. Lights and bias only. (Oh and a full Moon, as you see in the corner). Have I just got a dud, or are they all like this? I'm used to seeing noise from my DSLR; I'm not used to seeing stripes!

Thanks everyone. Like I said I'm familiar with a Nikon DSLR so am accustomed to using flats, flat darks and darks in stacking my lights, which I've been doing successfully in Astro Pixel Processor. The new ZWO camera has thrown me so I'm still learning what's different, and wasn't expecting this banding - which I guess is probably fixed pattern noise in the sensor? I can process it out but I'd rather it wasn't there in the first place. It's not discernible in the individual lights: stacking brings it out. Not what I'd expect. On some of the questions: my setup is (as it has always been): camera on Explorer 150P focus tube through Baader coma corrector (with 37.5mm spacer to get the right back focus). Power supply for the camera is USB 3.0 from the Stellarmate Plus controller [I've just ordered a tester to check the output but it should be more than enough for the camera] which is power via its transformer from a 12v Jackery power bank; fed via ethernet to Ekos on the iMac in my garden office, which is a quick and very reliable connection. Darks: usually shot (as in this case) at the start of the session, so the setup is entirely the same, just with the rig's coverall on as well as the cap on the OTA (and a dark cover on its primary end). Flats: I've always used an A4 LED light panel. With the 585MC I've got that on its lowest (of 10) brightness levels, through three sheets of 80gsm A4 paper and double thickness white T-shirt, which let me shoot 1" exposures. The master dark and master flat produced by APP look fine to me. (attached). EDIT: also attached a sample bias frame - I shot 30. If I can see anything, it's some horizontal stripes but certainly not vertical bands. Dithering: between each frame @ 500ms pulse (unguided dithering in Ekos) with a 1" delay before the next frame. I do not think this is working correctly given the walking noise I'm seeing, but I think that's a separate unresolved INDI issue which I'll pursue elsewhere. Anyway the walking (rain) noise is very different from the regular vertical banding that's at issue. Like I say, maybe the camera is just like this, but I was surprised to see such obvious vertical stripes.

I've been imaging successfully for two years on my Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P with a modified Nikon D750 - but I now have a new ZWO ASI585MC astro camera so I feel like I'm having to learn things all over again. I have taken some great Moon images, really pleased with those. But an issue that is plaguing my deep sky attempts is obvious, precisely vertical, mostly orange and blue banding in the images. I cannot work out what is causing it. I have attached an overstretched (to highlight the issue) example: 566 x 20", gain 252 offset 10, dithered - but I've tried different settings and it makes no difference. I have stacked in Astro Pixel Processor, which I usually use, and also in Siril - again, makes no difference, the banding is still there. I managed to use Siril's banding reduction to eliminate it, but I'd rather it wasn't there at all. People have suggested maybe my flats are the issue, but it's the same with or without flats, and my master flats look fine to my eye. Any thoughts? There's a UV/IR cut filter and MPCC III coma corrector in front of the camera, fwiw. Is it something about the 585MC?

Ah: Optical Trains ... I realise the update I have from late December has silently introduced an entire new concept in Ekos. I'm now watching Jasem's YouTube tutorial which, I hope, will explain what's going on. I'm surprised this isn't flagged up somewhere in the actual software but is on a corner of the KStars website! EDIT: it did. In case this helps anyone else: For whatever reason, my Optical Trains table does not pop up automatically as shown in Jasem's video - I had to click on the Edit (pencil) next to where it said Train: Primary at the top of the Align module. Then - also for whatever reason - this had pre-filled my mount and camera ... but there was nothing under Scope/Lens, perhaps because that information is not in the devices list in the main Ekos profile I'm using, along with mount, camera and focuser. (This makes sense because the telescope isn't a device anything controls, as such). Using the dropdown in the Optical Train profile revealed that telescope information, and this then autocompleted the required fields in the Align module. It's not dark yet so I can't test it, but it seems pretty obvious that was where the problem lay. EDIT: it was. Works perfectly now.

Has anyone got a clue what is causing this? I'm using a Nikon DSLR on a Skywatcher Newtonian on an EQ-5 Pro mount. Control is via Stellarmate into KStars/Ekos on my computer. Exactly the same set-up as I always use. After a break of a few weeks I have come back to it and for some reason the Align module has stopped working, with the error message shown in the title. I'm stumped. Telescope aperture and focal length are there in the INDI Options tab, same as always. I'm sure I must have overlooked something obvious but I don't know what it is complaining about. Can anyone help please?

I've had only two nights of clear skies to try it, while simultaneously learning KStars/Ekos, but certainly the focus motor works extremely well and seems solidly attached. Used 'manually', by which I mean not via software but with the optional plug-in hand controller, it's a dream compared with trying to do it by turning the focuser knobs by hand, with all the wobbling around of the OTA that entails.

Update in case anyone else is searching for the same topic. It does need a bit of juggling but it attaches OK and feels solid. The biggest issue is the way the ZWO bracket has two ridges on its underside, parallel to but also fairly close to its longitudinal centreline, which means you have to balance tightening the attachment bolts to level it against the surface of the focuser housing - which itself is slightly curved - because it can wobble from side to side. I acquired two 3mm x 16mm hex head bolts to attach it, and used one of the supplied M5 bolts as an additional anchor point in the hole where the (useless) Sky-Watcher focuser lock bolt normally goes, although that's not really necessary. Pic:

Thanks for that idea. Well, I've ordered one. Already increased tension, having initially tried Sky-Watcher's own focus motor. It worked well as a standalone but coupled with the HitecAstro DC controller I could not get it to work with Ekos - whereas I'm assured the ZWO one does work.

Hello everyone. Bit of a niche request for my first post, but is anyone using the ZWO EAF focuser on the standard Crayford type 150/750 Sky-Watcher Newtonian? The focuser is stated as being compatible only with Sky-Watcher's astrophotography OTAs with their dual-speed focuser, but I can't see why that is except perhaps that ZWO assume you wouldn't do imaging with the standard tube - whereas it works fine with my Nikon D750. I'm intending to get one but seeking reassurance it will work. I've seen this video: it's on a bigger OTA by the looks of it, but the focuser looks the same as mine (in French, but very clear even if you don't speak it):