Nicola Hannah Butterfield

OP already established that.

Is it was what supplied, providing your supplying the right voltage, the user will only accept the current that is right, even though the provider promises more

Something cheap like me, to fix some bad vignetting, 2" to M48 T-mount This is the result Total cost about £15

Did no one teach them nowt in school.

Get a 6v reachable battery like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultramax-NP12-6-12Ah-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00J4PZIVS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=6+Volt+Rechargeable+Battery&qid=1605896720&quartzVehicle=138-266&replacementKeywords=6+rechargeable+battery&sr=8-3 Spade connectors should be a simple connection, but need a 6v charger

I use a Skywatcher 200P which is an 8" reflector focal length 1,000mm giving an f stop of f5, most of my images with it are at prime focus, which can be achieved with this scope, the barlow which I have used isn't great it is the kit barlow. This is the very first image I took with it 10/01/20, more to test the prime focus as to its sharpness, but as you will seem it isn't to dissimilar to your sheep image. This was taken exif says 16:41 suspect that was bst, so more like 15:41, not sure how far the windmill is a good few miles. This is the very first moon shoot, hazy cloud. This is what I got 2 days later, single frame 1/200th f5 1,000mm iso 100 Then this towards the end of the phases Which shows a similar softness to your crescent moon. I have shot the moon through the barlow and even eyepiece projection exposure for this was 1/50th iso 12.800, effective f/l was 18m at f90 the c.a. you see towards the bottom I think was the kit barlow lens. Non of them are very sharp, so practise with the better barlow you have, do different exposures in manual mode, focus in and out using the 10x live view as sharp as it can been, live view is never as sharp as the final image, and has been said, remote shutter or timer and if possible mirror lock up.

It was a joke. I do understand a little about forces under tension.

I did look at the pictures, but obviously can't repost without permission, the cr2 file from the info, was taken 26/8/20 20:57 1/10th's ISO 100 pattern metering, shows a half moon, alot of blue/cyan C.A. upper right of the moon, on that date and time from my location in West Yorkshire would have put it 12 degrees above the horizon, so quite low a lot of atmosphere, the slow shutter will not have helped, but in terms of sharpness, not much worse than I can seem to achieve at the same altitude. The Tiff, taken 18/11/20 18:06 1/100th ISO 1600 metering pattern, again from my location, at 18:00 was just over 3 degrees, so very difficult at best, Sharpness is quite good given it very low altitude, and high ISO no sign of heavy C.A. What my conclusions would be, are to try to shoot in manual mode for the exposure, take several shots at different speeds, and try to shoot the moon at higher altitudes, judging from the differance in C.A. I would suggest the barlow in the tiff is better than that is the cr2. For the OP to compare, I shot this the day after the tiff image, so much higher, but about the same as the cr2, 19/11/20 16:54 ISO 200 1/320th Skywatcher P200D f5, only edit is a crop, I only got this because I was doing a series of test shots, but it does show the tiff image is not far away, when you consider the problems of low altitude imaging, nor can I work out the true focal lengths and magnification, my original is 20x as it is shot at prime focus. If you look at the east of the moons edge (as viewing the image) you can see air convection currents distorting the edge, but they could be within the scope as I said I was only doing a test and the scope hadn't cooled down fully,.

So is this a case of lost ancient technology then.

My NE6 was supplied with a 12v car auxiliary jack, so crocodile clips to a female auxiliary connected to the 12v battery, unless I am missing something. I use a 240v to 12v 3amp ( I think it;s 3 amp) transformer that used to charge AA type batteries, it has worked fine for me since March, I will add the high voltage is in the shed and only low voltage outside.

I do flats usually unless just testing something, like my first 5 min exposures last Ftiday, got two 5 min, one 2 min and 60's of a star field around PU Aur You can see the stars trailing towards the edges. no flats, darks or bias.

My last attempts were M32 and M33 in early August. Can be seen here https://sites.google.com/view/nhb-astro-photo-site/deep-sky if they are not in my gallery.

Just got to wait for some new bolts for the mount (on order), and some clear weather, which has been in short abundance these last 4 months, and virtually non since I got the guide scope bar a quick test with it last Friday. If this all goes well coma corrector next purchase, but before I do that, I want to see what improvement this will make, the improvement should also help in stacking. The t-Mount is a little loose on the camera but it was on;y a cheap one, I wasn't going to spend £30+ on something that might not work

I have tried to cure the server vignetting with my full Canon 6D and Skywatcher 200P using flats, but to no great success, so I had been thinking of an M48 T-mount to 48 mm 2" adaptor, anyway pick up a couple cheap version to test the theory and here is the result, all I have to do now is safe for a cheap 2" lpf and see where it sits in the train. Both exposures 1/320th f5 ISO 200

I think we read too much and not enough practise really, but no the basics seem easy enough.

Sorry wrong image, two ticks M33 area in twilight should have been the one. 300's at iso 100 not the best of images to demonstrate, but it clouded over after this.

I used Sharpcap to polar align for the first time Friday 13th Nov, and got This managed to give me a 60's exposure 1600iso on a Skywatcher 200P and a Canon 6D star field at prime focus, around PU Aur Regarding software, check cable try another if you have one, try uninstalling and reinstall, I had an issue with backyardeos, that cured the problem.

As @Jamgoodsay's, set mine up last Friday as above and managed two 5 min exposures before the clouds came back. Edit The above is unguided at 60's after sharpcap polar alignment, I then went on to try guiding with phd, which I managed for 5mins, but skies were still light anf the clouds came in,

Tell me about those that fail, We have one lighting the steps down from the main road at the front, one on the side door, one facing the steps into the rear garden (though this is actually turned off 99% of the time), I then have two solar charged ones facing into the garden one on each shed, again these are turned off 99% only being used to pack up of a might on occasions, usually just use a torch, there is also a bulk head light on the top shed only on if needed, but because of where the switch is, I have a habit of leaving it on till I see it shining in the bathroom window when I go upstairs, also a further light at the bottom shed to aid visibility, as this is the darkest part of the garden, not that anything is really dark, and whilst I have an issue with next door re her bathroom window (there is a youngster living there so maybe a reason) and she is happy to turn it off if I ask, it is nothing with what the OP has to contend with, the children's letter published in the local press seems a good idea, also the environmental issue another possible route. Another annoying one is who can turn on their Xmas lights first in the year, all ready got two on near here. I have the lights for a reason, the lady I care for share the house with has several health issues, including severe mobility issues. That is the neighbours earlier this year (2020) I have moved the scope down the garden where it is shielded from most, but the bathroom, however I might have a plan.

If they are L.E.D. lights not likely to be very much, something like that might only use 80W's or less.

Dark equates to ghost stories, once we got the electric light they disappeared very quickly.

I know this, but would be, much better if people were aware of wasted energy from the light they think they need and actually need.

The only elongation was in one sub of 4 I took,