Messy Hair 101

I think I need to go back to stacking school before I try to process! I'm going to try restacking and changing background calibration as I have a feeling it is working on the assumption these are colour lights and not mono. I will report back with findings.

Yes I will have another go at the flats - or even try without and see what that does. Can you expand on the single colour RGB stacks point? A few people have commented on there being RGB channels on mono images. I stacked each channel seperately and saved a Tiff from DSS, then opened in Photoshop. I then stretch them a little and paste them into the RGB channels of a new RGB document in PS. Anything I'm doing wrong there?

Thanks Viktiste. They look pretty good. The data should be separate channels of LRGB but as was hypothesized above, I wonder if it's displaying like that because of Photoshop perhaps or DSS when you put them into Pixinsight? The shots were taken with a mono camera, ASI 183MM Pro.

I know. I just bodged that image and shouldn't have really tried with it. Uneven illumination is still an issue but with Gradient Xterminator applied, I feel like I'm making some progress. I'm just glad I could get the calibration better. It's a learning process and there's a lot of trial and error, especially jumping to mono from a DSLR. I'm finding processing quite hard so was just curious what others could make of the data to see if it was the data or my processing. I think I know where the issue lies!

Yes I guess what I was trying to show was that the amp glow and dust from the first images was gone. Maybe this overstretched luminance file will demonstrate it better. I probably shouldn't have had a go at processing late after a few drinks! Below are the updated channels with improved calibration if anyone wants to have another crack. Luminance https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fLVXtgmaVdCqibMsnAebDmJswKq3wJUf/view?usp=sharing Red https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E79FZ7_DNPeU9zS_1cXsiSUhTNQaYOk9/view?usp=sharing Green https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HHBlrlsyhR0xa_KNQHk7c66eg9jgn1Di/view?usp=sharing Blue https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LsPqZmv5Fq803NzMJoVNhHp6-MvFpmxO/view?usp=sharing

Quick update. I restacked my LRGB data using Auto Adaptive Weighted Average and that seems to have removed the dust and amp glow. Below is a very quick and dirty, after two rums and a bear re-process to show the principle works.

If you try APT (Astrophotography Tool), you can use a plan for darks, lights etc to automatically take exposures. It will also name the files for you with the relevant prefix and other useful info like date and time. If you shoot mono with filters, it will also name each file with the filter number so you know which one you used. It's definitely worth trying the free version. The paid version has more features and is reasonably priced. You would need to plug your camera into a laptop though which is an issue if you don't have one kicking around. It's a real game changer though and will allow you to automate a lot of processes if your camera is supported.

Wow so the data is there, just need to work on calibration and perhaps stacking. I did take darks, flats and flat darks. Flats for each channel but I will start again I think as something has clearly gone wrong. Thanks both for all your efforts. It has helped to restore my faith and given me something to work towards

Wonderful thanks for that. I think I know part of the issue. I did two imaging runs a couple of days apart. I also did the second with an l pro attached which might cause issues? I also clearly need to work on my darks, dark flats and flats as they haven't worked as well as they should. I didn't take bias frames as I heard they can cause issues. One question. When you say the red channel should only have red in it, how do I ensure that happens? I've used Astronomik LRGB filters and unless I mixed up some frames, not sure what else I would do.

Much appreciated John. Thank you.

Hi, I wonder if anyone could help me, I'm pulling my hair out! I've spent a couple of nights gathering LRGB data on the the Triangulum Galaxy, about 2 hours per channel with a bit more for luminance. I feel like my setup is sorted and I can acquire data relatively easily now, it's the processing that's the issue! Also need to work on my calibration (there are some circles on here which must be dust spots and residual amp glow still visible when you stretch but anyway...). Below was an early attempt at processing and since then, reading more and more tutorials, my attempts have got progressively worse! I'm wondering if someone would like to have a play with the TIFFs from DSS to see if they can do better and if so, give me an idea of workflow and any pointers. These were 3 minute exposures stacked in DSS, taken with an ASI 183MM Pro and Astronomik LRGB filters with a Skywatcher ED80. Luminance https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A5lafKfB5mBaSAl_1Y-cvxEK0kAODmvv/view?usp=sharing Red https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lYSCMxz4BARrERCnjnVUWQrQsn9V_o6n/view?usp=sharing Green https://drive.google.com/file/d/161ozMFioeQ9trK3f73sP2gLjyuyfvwNv/view?usp=sharing Blue https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zCLO_fmSlMnVGwmmfn67tgLZ6q1x9jet/view?usp=sharing

As everyone says, checking you can achieve focus in the day is key. Then try the moon or a planet and then maybe DSOs. What have you tried to shoot so far? 20 seconds is quite short for a sub.

I still have the stock focuser and had to flatten the drawtube with a wet stone to improve the grip. Quite a common mod. I've hung full frame DSLRs and large astro cameras off the back and it doesn't slip. It does the job but a better focuser is a worthwhile investment down the line. It seems to be luck of the draw on how well it grips from the factory. Great scope though. Definitely great bang for buck.

APT will platesolve for you. Basically you will need to download All Sky Plate Solver or another programme (forget the name and don't have laptop to hand), enter your setup details like focal length, it will take a picture and work out from the stars exactly where you're pointing, then shift to your target. It can be found under the mount tab in the point craft section. Not sure if it's included with the free version. Its definitely worth paying for. You won't use your hand controller any more. Search YouTube for pointcraft APT and there will be plenty of more detailed guides.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a power supply for the cooler for a ZWO 183MM PRO? I'm amazed they don't come with one but apparently not. I'm not an electronics expert so am wary of plugging the wrong thing in. Just wondering if anyone found something on Amazon or such which is cheap and readily available (Which seems to be an issue with a few astro shops at the moment). Thanks

Not that I know what I'm talking about but I hear good things about the Optolong L-Enhance filter. You probably won't need the L-Pro under class 4 skies.

Yes Jupiter and Saturn nearing opposition did rekindle my interest in planetary. I'll be curious to see if anyone wants to weigh in with some mono experience as well although colour is back on the table (and a mak!)

I feel like I'm on the psychiatrist's couch a bit but you're right, I do sound like I want mono don't I? Or I at least think I should want mono. It's reassuring to know you are seeing a big improvement with a similar setup to me. Funnily enough I've looked at Maks and SCTs as well during my long search. I had a 6SE which I let go when I got the ED80 and have always regretted it a bit. I bought it with the mount and accessories for £300 a number of years ago. Astro bargain of the century! Probably worth considering to truly get some decent planetary shots. Thanks for your help with this.

Ah I had a 400d! Great camera, and a really nice pic as well. We're so lucky to have such a prominent comet passing us in our lifetime.

Thanks Dan. Yes I've spent countless hours on Astronomy Tools! The 294 was a consideration as well. I have also run them through Bintel's tool to check for over/under sampling. After smooth talking my wife and pointing out I'd already got her a Christmas present, I can cover the cost of filters. I'm wary of reigniting the great mono vs OSC debate again. I do like colour for convenience and I imagine I would see better results initially as the learning curve is shallower. I just don't want to get a year down the line and regret not going mono. I know there is a strong argument that, once you're set up, mono doesn't take as long as although you are taking several passes with different filters, you are building up data more quickly, but yes, it would be annoying if you are half way through a sequence and the sky turns to cotton wool. I do want to stick with ZWO as well because I know their kit and have looked at it a lot, plus, you know, they're red 😀 Ideally I would like 1 camera which can cover the gap of my 550d and take better planetary images than my 120 (although I'm aware with a 510 focal length, planetary is never going to be amazing). I have an L-pro as well and will be looking at the L-Enhance at the same time I think. I know there is an L-Extreme which looks interesting...

I'm going to be that guy. Sorry. I'm after some advice on the "best" camera for my setup. A little background - I have been into astronomy for about 7 years but have become more involved in the last 18 months and trying to push what I can do. I'm looking to upgrade my AP setup, ideally with 1 ZWO camera. The question is, which one? Current setup is the classic Skywatcher 80ED with a 0.85x FR on a HEQ5 Pro with belt mod. I'm guiding with a 120mc-s on an Evoguide 50. I sometimes use the 120 for planetary but the main imaging camera at the moment is an astro modded 550D (Thanks @Adam j, still enjoying this). The question is basically an upgrade path from here. I am interested primarily in nebula and galaxies, but do like to do some planetary and lunar work from time to time. I like the convenience of OSC but my brain is telling me mono would be better in the long run, although more of a learning curve. Camera wise, I would like to stick with ZWO and the 183 and 1600 are on my wish list (cooled), in both mono and colour flavours. Would one of those be the best compromise or would I need to invest in a smaller, planetary camera too? Is the mini filter wheel and filter set bundled with the 1600 good enough or is there something better for a similar cost? I would look to keep the 550d for wider field shots so could go with a smaller pixel size on the dedicated astro cam to make targets appear a bit bigger. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I realise this is a bit of a stream of consciousness rather than a specific question. I just want some reassurance before I make a big investment.

You just need the USB lead that comes with the camera to connect it to a laptop, turn it on and APT should detect it. If I recall, the visual back is screwed on and there is a tube into which you insert the diagonal. You would just take out the diagonal and attach the t adapter to that. The T ring then screws onto the t adapter which is connected to your camera (put them all together before you insert the t adapter!) I would get all that working as it will keep you busy for quite a while! In terms of guiding, it doesn't really work for your alt az mount (guide star will be sharp but other stars on the edge will trail). You really need an equatorial mount for guiding and long exposures as field rotation will become an issue. The moon and planets will be fine though - They might be your best targets with that mount and focal length. Have fun with what you've got and reach the limits of what it can do first. You will probably be limited to fairly short exposures of 30 seconds or a minute for DSOs but see how good you can get it, then you can decide on next steps - assuming you're not happy with what you get.

If you're running your scope off the mains, I would get a dummy battery with mains adapter for your camera as well. Monitoring battery usage will drive you nuts! You can find cheap ones on Amazon. Canon do an official one but it's crazy money - probably a half to a third what you paid for the camera. You have a t-adapter and t-ring so connecting to your telescope should be OK as long as you have back focus. Just double-check that in daylight if possible before you get set up. I think it will be OK though. Further down the line, you might want to look at connecting your camera to a laptop and controlling it with something like APT which is a real game-changer.

I remember driving back from the shop with my first scope, snow started to fall.....

I find if I set the RA clock so north is zero or midnight, if I turn the RA so the clock reads 21:30, the reticle is orientated correctly. I then set it back to zero for the home position. Best way to set the RA clock is to rotate RA until your weight bar is horizontal and use a spirit level to check it's level (take the weights off first!). When that's done, set the clock to 18:00, then it will be 0:00 in the home position. This is with the counterweight bar rotated to the left if you're standing "behind" the mount, looking north. Loads of videos about it online.