Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Messy Hair 101

Members
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

24 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nottingham

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My setup is working pretty much perfectly at the moment. The only issues I have are clouds and improving my processing. Why then do I have the urge to buy new kit?! Does anyone else get this? I like having a problem to solve and buying the right tool for the job. Beyond higher quality replacements for what I have, I don't need anything.
  2. As long as you are polar aligned and your scope is in the home position, I would get rid of the hand controller and just use APT. The alignment procedure will tell your mount it's orientation, platesolving does the same thing so there is no need to do both. In terms of the polar alignment outline, did you turn your declination axis to 90 degrees so your telescope tube is at right angles to your mount? This will allow you to see the outline. It's worth looking at this thread to make sure APT is set up correctly for platesolving and save your self a lot of trouble shooting. There are loads of videos about setting your scope up for the first time, home position and PA. These are old but did the job for me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fO6hyYtPwM
  3. I'm a firm believer in buying once (after having bought astro gear, realised it wasn't up to my expectations, sold it and bought the more expensive option anyway!) I would definitely go Pro straight off the bat. FLO recommended the 183 for my ED80 which pairs really well, although some of the shots I've seen with the 294 are amazing and make me wonder if I should have gone with that. I also shoot mono and, although I'm no pro, it hasn't been hard to pick up and get reasonable results but there is a lot more headroom to go further with mono and filters. So for example I can shoot narrowband on a full moon and still get OK data (for me anyway). Of course you need to factor in the cost of filters and a wheel which isn't to be sniffed at. I'm pleased with my 183mm but I feel like half the great pictures I see online are with a 294mc so who knows? I don't want to be responsible for restarting the mono vs. OSC debate!
  4. Like a lot of astro stuff, it seems so overpriced "for what it is". Then you use it and wonder how you worked before. The PPA is a fantastic bit of kit and just works. I think once you add in the cost of a dew heater control box, powered USB hub and some way of powering all your devices, plus cables, you're not all that far from the cost of this. The PPA sticks all that in a small box with auto dew and an app to control everything from your laptop, plus 4 power leads to connect your mount, cameras etc. I run a main cam, guide cam, two dew heaters, mount, filter wheel and focuser off mine. I have room for a rotator if necessary. My only annoyance is finding the optional brackets atm is nigh on impossible.
  5. I've only platesolved in NINA and APT but there's no way it should take an hour! If it hasn't solved after a minute, something's wrong. Assuming your settings are all correct, are you also starting in the home position? The "Things to know" section here https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/sharpcap/features/plate-solving suggests you need to be pointing the right way fairly acurately to ensure it works. Have you tried blind plate solving? Hopefully someone who knows about Sharpcap solving will come along soon.
  6. That does sound like a pain. I bought my HEQ5 about 18 months ago and watched lots of videos and the belt mod was easy. Not that that really helps you... I can tell you thought that it has made a noticeable improvement to my tracking. I definately feel the benefit. Don't feel like there was a real reduction in noise when slewing though although I never really had an issue with that.
  7. I have pretty much an identical setup bar the 183 mc, I have the mono. I also shoot 3 minute subs for LRGB! The detail for me is faint when stretched so I imagine it would be fainter with the colour camera. As others have said, learn something like APT which will teach you how to platesolve so you know you are bang on target, then take a shot and use the autostretch tool to stretch the histogram and you should really see something, even if faint. You could also upload one of your frames to https://nova.astrometry.net/upload and it will solve the image and show you exactly what you've taken a picture of and if it includes the Rosette. Definately post one of your shots here and I imagine the answer will come to someone looking.
  8. Good shout. Longer FL but not crazy long, can do planets and small DSO's, not too heavy and the price is reasonable. By jove old chap, I think you've cracked it! Day 367 of regretting selling my 6se 🙄🙄
  9. You're right of course. I haven't outgrown the ED80 yet and got to the point where CA is the limiting factor. An Esprit 80 is hard to justify, better but not drastically. The 120 would necessitate an eq6 or the like which my wife is BOUND to notice. Might be back to a secondary Mak for planets and galaxies (if I can guide well enough).
  10. Yes I have an EAF and that does help with one issue I had with the focuser i.e. when I did up the lock nut, it moved the focus point away from where I wanted to set it which was infuriating. I did also do some work on the friction material on the drawtube to flatten that and give it greater purchase although it would sometimes still slip under weight which a focuser wouldn't stop. I must have just had a really bad one. I feel like this thread is turning into me ragging on Skywatcher ED80 stock focusers!
  11. £700 for an 8SE is not too shabby. It feels like people are asking that for the 6SE atm. I only paid £300 for my 6SE but that's another story. I agree with John, it's high risk, especially if you've never touched a scope before. The price would need to reflect that. In terms of an equivalent scope, Meade and Celestron are probably the main players for large SCTs. A better question is probably the classic what do you want to do with it? If you want something the whole family can use visually for example, a dobsonian might be easier and cheaper.
  12. Really hard to tell from pictures if that's just dust, dirt or something worse. If it is just cosmetic, it's a bargain and can be calibrated out or cleaned if it's that bad and you're careful. A new power lead and eyepiece are no issue. If it is really damage, a new corrector plate isn't cheap... Great scopes though. Is there any way you can see it or even test it out? Even a quick test in the daytime with a diagonal and eyepiece would tell you quite a bit. Try defocusing as well which will show issues more easily than an in focus image (If it looks bad in focus, might be best to walk away.
  13. Another cracker! You can see the increased detial at the longer fl but the ed80 isn't a million miles away. I would probably go more extreme fl wise with maybe a skymax 180 for planetary work which I miss
  14. True but the DS Pro Outfit (which is what I have) is £499, plus the Steeltrack and other odds and sods is over £800. You get the idea. I hadn't factored in selling off any parts. Did you sell your old focuser with screws or not? I had to drill mine out in the end as they're glued in which would effect resale value.
  15. Fantastic image. You're right of course. Perhaps I'm just after some retail therapy. There's certainly more I can do with this rig, improving my focussing and post processing for starters. I need to master it all before I need to upgrade the ED80. Maybe I go back to looking for a longer focal length scope to compliment my setup. Thanks for your input.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.