Mandy D

It's going to gather more light, so from that point of view it is certainly a step up. I have a 200P, but I also have a 250PX which is even better in my opinion. It's not much heavier and assembled with the tube vertical takes up exactly the same amount of floor space. I bought the 200P thinking it would be easier to store and move around. I can't feel any real difference in weight either. So, I almost regret not getting a second 250PX.

I can only imagine that they sent the scope to an advertising agency with the simple instructions to photograph it and create an advert to go in some magazine or other, then never saw it prior to publication. Of course, it was obligatory back then to have the father and son image for this hobby. I can't imagine how awful the view is through that finderscope, which really does not look anywhere near 42 mm to me. It probably has a spherical mirror. Price increase just in time for Christmas, too!

Yes, I agree it does look like the designer might be "cheaping out", but very often it is the customer that is forcing such a decision on the designer. The domestic microwave oven is the best example I can think of where such cost-cutting is taken to the extreme and transformers of 1500 VA rating are not uncommon! These are produced on a production line with one transformer hitting completion every 30 seconds as part of the "cheaping out" process! Thermal fuses are used in these and once the transformer has been running hot enough and long enough for that fuse to fail, the insulation will be in bad shape and no way should you risk putting it back in service. If that PSU is designed for 13.8 V, 25 A output, as I think I have read, then a properly rated transformer feeding a rectifier with capacitor filter and having sufficient overhead for the regulator will need to be closer to 600 VA for continuous use, or is it assumed that the supply will only be used intermittently? Anyway, I guess this does not help resolve the OP's problem, so I'll leave it at that.

Would it not take half of one rotation to visually move completely across Jupiter's equator, or have I missed the point, somehow?

OK, fair enough. If the transformer is working, then clearly it cannot be what I suggested. BTW, that is a small transformer. 😁 Here is a link to the thermal fuses we use inside small transformers like the one in that power supply: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-fuses/7976030/ They are 15 A rated.

Don't count on it. Because this is an integral part of the transformer, it might not be shown on a schematic.

I looked at this picture and thought it looked odd, then it dawned on me. Why would anyone have run that ad for a telescope?

If a transformer has overheated to the point of insulation breakdown or conductor failure, it will smell pretty awful. There would be no mistaking that kind of failure. A more likely failure mode for a small transformer like this would be a thermal fuse embedded in the primary windings. Check the windings for continuity with a multimeter on the ohmss range. Expect a few ohms to tens of ohms for a 230 volt primary and a fraction of an ohm or two for a 15 volt secondary. I really would not worry about the goop on top of the core. It is not charred so all is well there.

My new Quechua rechargeable lantern from Decathlon. Red, white, bright white. Comes with a USB charging lead, but no mains charger. Also has a nice soft-start feature so your retinas don't suddenly get hit with full brightness when dark-adapted. The white is actually much brighter than the red, even on dim.

Absolutely! The 8" will see objects that are a lot fainter than you will see in the smaller scope. Everything will appear so much brighter in the 200P: 78% brighter.

An 8" aperture gathers 78% more light than a 6"! You are going to lose an awful lot of light by trading down. The base on a Skywatcher 150P, 200P and 250PX all appear to be the same size. I have both the 200P and the 250PX. Looking at the Heritage range, I'm not sure the base is that much smaller. Will the 200P tube not lie down on the back seat? Then, you need only put the base on the front passenger seat. Use seat belts on both!

They are quite tough. You are more likely to strip the thread on them, then it is just a case of picking out any remains from the hole they are screwed into or running a tap through to clear the remains. Tensile strength of nylon is 50 - 90 MPa, mild steel can be as low as 300 MPa. Remember, these are only thumb screws and you are not tightening with a tool, so you will get nowhere near the torque that you might apply to a steel screw of the same size.

Nylon tipped screws seem to be thin on the ground. Try solid nylon, at least it won't strip the thread in the expensive part and they are for pennies. Have a look at this link: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/filter/screws-bolts/572?s=N4IgTCBcDaILYFYAEA7AngGwPYqQFwAsBXOAIyQGcBjAJwFMB3EAXQF8g I would go for a pack of 10 or 25 to have some spares.

Very soon the constellation of Orion will move into the evening sky. It is very obvious and easy to spot and great to photograph. See if you can spot it in my photo. If you are not sure what it looks like, search for it on the web. Jupiter is a great one to spot and as you already know where it is, look along the sky to the right of Jupiter, quite a long way and you will see Saturn, which is much dimmer and glows a fuzzy yellow. If you look towards the eastern horizon a few hours after you spot Jupiter, you might see Mars. Follow @TheycallmeRiver's advice and get yourself an app. It makes life much easier.

It's only a Harrison M300! I believe it weighs 1650 kg. Had to get a 2 tonne fork truck in to lift it off the trailer.

Yeah, it's over-rated!

Yes, but you might be blocked from using it until you have scored enough brownie points or been here long enough (probably a month, if I recall correctly).

I've got a lathe with a 13"+ swing over the bed and can probably squeeze another 5" with the gap out. Do you not have a removeable gap in the bed?

I totally agree that the view through a 2" is superior. I used to keep my Baader in my camera case, but somehow it got left in France. Now that you have me thinking about this, I want it back. I'm sure I recall that I could use it as a focal extender and I could do with that right now.

Hmmm, I have a Baader Hyperion 8mm modular which, I believe, covers 4.3 - 21.8mm, but have not used it in four years because it is in France. It's far better than any other eyepiece I have. Why do you think you are seeing no-one using them?

I guess being an engineer helps! Glad to be able to assist.

Stick a ruler across the thread and estimate the diameter. It'll be a whole number of millimetres, most likely 4, 5 or 6. That will be the M size, e.g. M6. Final check is to measure the length of the threaded section and count the turns. Divide length by turns and that gives the pitch of the thread. M4 is 0.7mm pitch, M5 is 0.8mm and M6 is 1mm. This is standard metric coarse. Skywatcher will almost certainly be using standard metric fasteners. Or, take it to your local nut and bolt purveyor and get them to try a selection in it to determine correct size. They also sell nylon screws that won't damage the surface you are screwing onto.

You could ask ZWO on Facebook in their very active group.

My new Evoguide 50ED, purchased from a member on here, arrived this morning, beautifully packed and in one piece.

Or, for £24.99, a rechargeable version with 15 lumens red and 200 lumens white, against 20 L red and 100 L white. You get 130 hours red mode on a single charge. Choices! Choices! https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/camping-lamp-bl200-rechargeable-200-lumens/_/R-p-324939?mc=8584584 I think I'll order, now.