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Adam1234

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Everything posted by Adam1234

  1. I had a brief look last night and mirrors didn't look out of alignment so hopefully no adjustments needed yet!
  2. This is so much more help than some of the other very long winded and complicated instructions I have found. Some of the other sites on RCT collimation physically gave me a headache.
  3. Just bought the StellaLyra 8inch f/8 Ritchey Chretien. As I like to name all my astronomy gear, I have decided to call it Lionel (Lionel Ritchey Chretian ). FYI I have named my Barlow lens Gary . Now just need to figure out/learn how to collimate, so if anyone has any good instructions let me know!
  4. My image of Jupiter with transit of Ganymede on 11 Oct 2021. 30 x 45s videos at 58fps, gain 68, exposure 5ms. Best 5% of frames from each video stacked (Autostakkert 3), sharpened (Registax 6), and derotated (Winjupos) to create final image. SkyWatcher 250P, 2 x barlow, ZWO ASI120mc-s. Included a gif of Jupiters rotation just for fun. Adam
  5. Nice. I might have to get some of mine printed
  6. Not as yet, I'm still processing at the moment, I wasn't too happy with my first attempt so giving it another go. Hopefully will post up tonight or tomorrow!
  7. I happened to be imaging Jupiter on Monday and captured the transit
  8. Image of Saturn from last night. This is my best to date so I'm very pleased. 20 x 2min videos captured between 20:15 and 20:45 at 58fps using Sharpcap. Exposure 14ms, gain 100. Each video stacked in AutoStakkert 3 (best 25% of frames of each, or anything above 60% quality). Each stacked image sharpened in Registax 6, then derotated using Winjupos. SkyWatcher 250px dobsonian, ZWO ASI120mc-s, Celestron 2 x barlow. EDIT: forgot to also add I'm in the South UK, so still quite low in the sky, and I'm having to image over the rooftops of the houses opposite my garden Jupiter to follow soon! Adam
  9. Yeah less can definitely be more. I tend to process my images at least twice, the first time I seem to tend to slightly over process, not necessarily on purpose, but it helps to see how far you can push the data, then I dial things down a bit on the 2nd go and have more of an idea what is going to work
  10. I usually start off by mapping 100% Ha to red, and 100%Oiii each to Blue and Green, then experimenting by say adding 20% Ha 80% Oiii to the green or blue, seeing what I get, adjust the ratio maybe 10% Ha or 50%. At the end of the day, the amount of Ha you add in to either the blue or green channel is personal taste. Depending on the amount you add you can get an RGB type look (straight 100% Oiii in both green and blue), but you can also get a Hubble type look by adding in Ha to the green I think. For me personally, I try these experiments but usually end up finding that 100% Oiii in green and blue works best for me
  11. I personally think the Veil Nebula suits the HOO palette best. To me it is more pleasing to the eye and I love the blues and reds that it offers
  12. Thanks! Looking forward to seeing yours!
  13. My rendition of the Western Veil Nebula in bicolour HOO imaged over 4 nights between 10 - 18th August. This is my first deep sky target since April, owing to the lack of darkness during the summer, and the general lack of clear skies. 5 hours each of Ha and Oiii (300s subs) at gain 200. Equipment as per my signature. I'm hoping at some point to image the rest of the Veil and make a mosaic, but that may be some way off yet. Western Veil Nebula2_Tiff.tif Adam
  14. Thanks! For the foreground I used one of the single images from the run, added it as a new layer in Photoshop, and then (very carefully) masked out the sky. I didn't need to take a longer exposure for the foreground as I had sufficient light from the fishing trawler and cars coming in and out of the carpark! ISO probably depends alot on other factors such as light pollution, your exposure time, whether you're tracking etc. If you're tracking for example you can do longer exposure so may not need a high ISO so 800 or 1600 would probably be ok. If you're on a static tripod you would be limited to shorter exposure so you would need to up ISO. I usually do some test images of different ISO and exposure to see what works best for that night. ISO 1600 and 30s exposure is probably a good starting point.
  15. The Samyang is a good choice. Here's some images of the Milky Way I recently took with mine https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/383631-milky-way-in-cornwall/?tab=comments#comment-4148109 I would definitely recommend the ball head. @900SLI would also be interested in how to check if the Samyang is de-centered or has optical issues
  16. First one looks lovely. Shame about the helicopters though! A lot of mine were ruined by the trawler boat moving closer and closer towards the Milkyway and cars that kept coming past.
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