masjstovel

Thanks alot @teoria_del_big_bang, this is very informative and helpful for me, so i appreciate it alot! You mean splash-proof extension-cord or 12adaptor? The extension-cord is IP44 standard, so thats splash-proof with lids on it. I will definately look into the 12V 5A. plug size is 5.5mm x 2.1mm right? I've found several of these. What do you mean by this? I'm sorry, my english isnt 100% This was my intention yes. I dont understand the sollution with the HUB - can you explain how this would be? Wouldn't the HUB need to be connected back to the computer inside, and the cable-length still be a problem? Or you mean something like the ASIAIR? The current plan is to use a Bahtinov (my friend is 3D-printing one as there are so few astrogear-suppliers in Norway), and just go back and forth between scope and computer until i'm satisfied. Further down the line i will maybe go for an auto-focuser with software, but for now i feel i must start up with the equipment i have provided. The need for more gear never stops in this business I've learned

Hi, Background: There will probably be too much information below, but my level of knowledge in electronics is unfortunately low. I own a EQ-5 - upgraded to pro with synscan, a SW 150pds and a SSAG guidecam on a 9x50. I bought this with the purpose of AP. I have my telescope on the porch, so i can sit inside with the PC (5m distance) and power everything from the socket in the wall inside. I live in Norway where there is 230V 50hz AC in the wall. I have understood most telescope equipment (?) is powered by 12v DC. The mount came with a 12V "car-connector" which im sure people are familiar with. But i didnt wish to use this, so instead i bought a plug (European), which the picture below shows. It is like a multipurpose plug where i can choose 12V and also choose different "pc-style" connectors in the other end. I am currently powering the mount via this plug to a 20m extension cord with 4 sockets. It's labeled "250V AC 50HZ". (picture below) I plug the USB3-powered SSAG straight to the computer. I plug the synscan controller to the computer with an adaptor to make it USB in the other end. So to the core of this post: I now have an ZWO ASI1600MM PRO (DC 12V 3A), with a 8 slot ZWO filter-wheel (USB2.0 powered - guess this connects to the camera). On its way. I also have a NEQ6 PRO on its way (12V 2A) - so no more EQ5 - but same power requirements. And lastly i have a HitecAstro 4 channel dew controller on its way (12V DC) - which i plan to use with a Omegon secondary mirror heating strap, SMALL (https://www.astroshop.eu/heater-bands-controls/omegon-secondary-mirror-heating-strip-small/p,56529#tab_bar_1_select), and maybe something else down the line. The strap uses 0,18amps the product specifications says. So....... With this setup, and from home like described: 1. -Plan is to use the 12v 2.25A adaptor-plug from the EQ5 on the NEQ6. -Buy another one just like it, for the dew-controller. I dont know what Ampere it needs, but the dew-strap is only 0,18A. -Buy a upgraded 12V 3A (or 5A) for the ZWO ASI1600 and 5m USB3.0 to PC. -Plug filterwheel to ZWO. -Plug guidecamera to PC as before - Or can this go straight to the ZWO? -Plug the EQ6 via the Synscan ST4(?) to USB 5m to the PC. So the mount, the ZWO and the dew-controller will go to the extension cord-cable drum outside which goes to the wall inside. The PC will go to the wall inside ofcourse. Can i do this? 2. If no: How should i do this?

In balance as in not leveled or off in polarscope? presume both is pretty regular. Yes i am 100% sure there will be more issues to come! The negative thing with AP is that there are not so many "fix it by doing.." yet, but many "fix it by buying" 😮 I've learned alot from just this post. I thank you guys alot @RolandKol, @vlaiv, @kens and @Adam J !

Haha i know.. it feels more like the start... Have an EQ-6 on the way as well. Should have listened to those begging me to not go for the EQ5.....

Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction) on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly. Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far. If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot? I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope? Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?

I bought the ZWO 1600MM Pro with 1.25" Filter-wheel, LRGB filters, and Narrowband filters now.. Please dont tell my girlfriend. As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)

Thank you, that is very useful to me. I saw your setup. Do we have the same focuser (except yours is modified)? Also, why the DSLR on the lower part of the scope? The normal procedure is to make a darks library which you always use, or do you take new darks every session? I am very curious in "start - to finish"-explanation regarding setup of hardware, and software, and workflow in general. I've seen alot (ALOT) of videos, but I feel most of them presumes you have alot of background knowledge allready. Is there any good ones around? (There is a fair chance i've already seen them)

I must say I am impressed with your knowledge. I have to read through this a few times to understand it fully, but i think i understand the key points. Its the first time I've seen "derivation" and "simple" in the same sentence, btw @RolandKol, @vlaiv and @Adam J I took a look at my scope now and see i messed up. I DO have threaded adaptor, it was just not tightened all the way (ever since i bought the scope). Thats why it was slightly movable. (pictures attached). This means the tilt-problem is out of the picture for me? The focus-tube is tight, and the adaptor is tight (when screwed in). And RolandKol, I'm pretty much decided on the ZWO ASI 1600MM mono.

Regarding over/undersampling. I think i get it in form of: "picture looks best with between 1-2"/px". The result says what is "covered" of target area per pixel? I tried transforming this rule to general photography just for fun. Nikon D810 sensor pixel size (or pixel pitch= distance from center of pixel to center of next pixel which is the same(?)) = 4,87μm. I also have a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens which i've used on s star adventurer mini for Milkyway photos. This gives me: (4,87 / 14mm) * 206.3 = 73,76"/px - waay undersampled? I understand widefield photography is a different ballgame though. Is this because the level of star-detail is irrelevant at these focal lengths? At what focal length spectre is this rule handy? Is the 206.3 number made as an average factor for DSO-imaging? Apologize for the question-bombing, but i found this interesting.

Thanks alot for that excellent explanation! I understood the model. Wouldn't a ZWO filter-wheel be close enough to an ZWO camerasensor when its from the same manufacturer? I mean, without vignetting? Stitching would be great to try, but i imagine there has to be careful work with calibrated frames if the stitching is to look Natural. I mean no contrast between "core" and corners and so on - the frames must be totally even all over? This i am not sure i understand? what is oversampling? And about the binning. I may have misunderstood, but i thought binning was moving the frame some pixels back and forth to sort out different kind of distortions/errors in the frames? Wouldnt those still be there if i used binning for making bigger frames? Thanks @RolandKol! You habe an URL/name for a useful autofocuser in my case? It's almost funny - this "It would be cool to take a photo through a Telescope"-project never stops surprising me with must-have-gadgets :D. @RolandKol , @vlaiv and @AdamJ: Yes the inner adaptor-ring With the locking-screws is slightly moveable (<1mm). This is the issue you're addressing? Is it not fixable with just a toothpic pushed in between or something? Maybe im cursing in the church now, but…

Thanks! I see what you mean. I'm planning on buying something like i.e an 80mm f/6 in addition, which i think will be a good choice when the 150PDS makes it too close (?). Maybe down the line i will add something like the 130. I don't quite understand what you mean about the focuser? It will not stay in place because of the weight or? To @RolandKol and @AdamJ: Will this sort the problem? https://www.astroshop.eu/motors-controls/skywatcher-auto-focus-system-for-telescopes/p,11469#tab_bar_0_select

Thank you @kens, just the kind of answer I was looking for! That clarifies it for me regarding question #2. If i understand you correctly - the bigger the filter-diameter - the better, or at least the more ready i will be for other equipment further down the line? Are you familiar with the ZWO-filters? I've read that the old ones are bad, but the new ones are good alternatives to Astrodon and Baader- except some haloing on the OIII. ( https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/627187-review-of-the-new-zwo-narrowband-filters-comparison-to-the-old-zwo-and-astrodon-filters/ )

Hi, I bought my first telescope, SW 150pds about 6 months ago with the purpose of astroimaging "when i feel ready". So far ive used my Nikon D810 for that, and I'm now planning on taking the step buying my first AP camera. My targets would be DSO's, and not planetary. I want a mono-camera, not color. I want to get away with a very good camera to a reasonable price (wouldn't we all...) and in this regard I've been drooling on the ZWO ASI 1600MM Mono for some time. The price for it is in the upper part of my budget, but I'm willing to if its worth it. I've seen from other treads that sensor-size isn't everything, and dynamic range and gain and all is just as important, but i have trouble understanding it all 100% when it's all new to me, but in my experience i am a practical person who learns things much better and faster with the gear in my hand. So without getting to technical, and staying as objective as possible - please help me with; 1. Is this a good camera to go for? 2. It's sold with options of filters 1.25", 31mm or 36mm - Why these options, and what determines what i would choose? 3. Would you go for another camera in this price range, and why? - Or to rephrase it a bit; If you were in my shoes, which camera would you og for? I'd appreciate any help:) I might add, that i understand that with my lack of experience, buying a mono-camera with filters and all might seem premature, but for some strange reason. I enjoy these "way over my head"-projects and figuring out things as time goes - I just need some guiding in the right direction.

I dont detatch the motors, i just loosen the clutches and it happens. I will try to strip it down and grease it. Im just afraid i need some new parts, but i guess i wont know before its stripped down..

Hi, I'm a beginner and bought my EQ5 (new) some time ago. That was my first mount and i didnt know anything at the time i got it. I suspected it right from the start after watching these balancing-videos, but didn't think much of it since the mount was brand new. Now i suspect it more; that the RA axis is too tight. By that I mean I can move it around by hand, but it doesnt "float" further when the axis is balanced. I can move the weights a bit and still it doesnt affect the movement. If i move the weights lets say +/- 3-4cm it still seems "balanced". It's just that there are some resistance to it. This is not normal? What should i do? I've installed motors separately so it is basically identical to an EQ5 pro now, and i havent experienced issues with slewing and guiding, so it doesnt seem like the gear is affected by it. Any tips?

I'm sorry, I didnt read Your post well enough, just got caught up in the power-supply-thingy:)

I had the exact same problem as you and the problem was my Power supply as @johninderby mentions above. I used a supply with too low amps and bought a new one with 2.5 A and it worked perfectly. Other thoughts: You start from parked position? Have you calibrated your polarscope? So that your mount is not pointing in the wrong direction because the polarscope is off? Lastly, it may be obvious and i'm sure you do it, but just to check since i dont find it in your steplist: You balance your scope with the setup you're about to use? And i don't mean to be rude, but you do actually look through the polarscope and align polaris in the right position in the given time? I am a newbie and i missed some "captain obvious" points myself my first times so just checking. I would definately try my first tip if everything else is in order - that did it for me.

Thanks! Lots of cloudy nights where i live, so havent been testing this other than this one time with the photo above. Can you explain me the difference between "Pulse guiding" and "ST4" in the EQMOD setup and which do i use with the setup i mentioned? I use the ST4 cable (the network cable), but i use it from guider to PC.

I have the EQASCOM v200q ASCOMPAD v209 Guess those are the latest?

Still in Toolbox? Ok, and then i can use it on several apps simultanusly? (PHD2, Cartes du Ciel, etc)? Im sorry for questionbombing, but this ASCOM/EQMOD/ASCOMPAD etc etc is still very vague to me.

Thanks! Well its actually several 20sec exposures and 6 darks. Had some 120sec exposures but that was to much movement. EQmod running = Opening EQmod toolbox, register, and Connect?

Got it working last night. Depends on how you define "working", but i got tracking in PHD2, using the ASCOM driver at least. I did the setup in the "EQMOD toolbox". Pressed register (I have to do this every time?) and 2 boxes popped up. "Unexpected error" and "Success"...….. so yeah.. if I wasnt confused from before... Anyway, then i could do the "Driver Setup" and Connect ASCOM, and further on I could connect my Mount in PHD2. Guiding worked, but its on my porch so i think alot of vibrations on the floor when moving around becuase giuding jumped +/- 8 arc Seconds. I am wondering how Your workflow is when you're astrophotographeing? I bumped in to a problem. I was setting up my PHD2, then i was planning to Connect Scope to my Cartes do Ciel, but i couldnt Connect because the driver was already in use in PHD2 i think. If i disconnected Mount from PHD2 i could Connect Scope in Cartes du Ciel and visa versa. Is there a way around this? Is this way of workflow not optimal? Didn't have much time left for actual AP but this is what i got for 4mins total exposure. Its way to little exposure, and bad stars, but this wasnt my goal this first time.

I didn't get any Toolbox with installing from that link you gave me, only a program called ASCOMPAD? I found this linked to your link under "files": https://sourceforge.net/projects/eq-mod/files/EQASCOM/ With installing it i got some new drivers in my PHD2 Equipment. Is EQMOD ASCOM HEQ5/6 or EQMOD_2 ASCOM HEQ5/6 the correct one. I mean i have EQ5 but…? I feel like im just installing a bunch of stuff and really dont have a clue of what im doing and why.

What will it be displayed as in PHD2 Mount section? I installed it and there is nothing called EQMOD in the list?

Ok, thank you, i will download it. But what is it? it looks like a controller in the pictures? I mean I was initially just wanting to setup my mount to PHD2. I'm not familiar with any of these programs. Is EQ mode just a driver or? I seriously feel 80 years old now, but i just dont understand this. I thought a driver was just a file of some sort to make the Connection between X and computer, but these ASCOM and EQMOD look like program Interfaces of some sort? What am i not getting?