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About Davehux

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  1. I've just blown all my pocket money on a Rowan belted HEQ5 Pro, so it's time to move on my trusty EQ5 GOTO, before my wife spots 2 tripods in my shed I'm sure everyone knows these mounts, but just to say that it's in full working order, with just the usual wear marks here and there, and a few marker pen lines for Home and counterweight positions. Comes with 12V power lead and car cigarette plug, and sync lead with USB adapter to let you upgrade the firmware on the Synscan handset. It's currently at 4.39.05, which was the latest version a couple of months ago. There are 2 x 5kg counterweights as well. I still have the boxes for my HEQ5, so I could courier it within mainland UK only, but I've priced it up with a number of companies and it would cost £40 to send it. Obviously it's better if you can collect it from near Truro, Cornwall, but I know we're a long way from civilisation Yours for a sensible £350 - a new one will cost you around £575 from most of the usual retailers. Paypal Gift or Bank Transfer most welcome Thanks for looking
  2. Barrie - no you don't. An EQMOD cable plugs into the EQ5 body, replacing the handset completely. I run mine through an ASIair and ipad
  3. Hi everyone I'm tempted with the Revelation Superfocus R&P focuser to replace the standard one on my SW Evostar 80ED https://www.telescopehouse.com/accessories/focusers/revelation-superfocus-2-inch-rack-n-pinion-refractor-focuser.html I know it needs an adapter to fit it to the tube, but Telescope House can't supply me with one, even though they've said many people have fitted them to SW scopes. Has anyone managed to source one, and from where? Many thanks Dave
  4. Now sold I've only had this a few months, and used it maybe 4 or 5 times, but have now moved onto the ZWO ASIair system for guiding and imaging. It's in full working order and mint condition. Comes complete with the hand controller, par-focus eyepiece ring, ST4 cable, handbook and USB cable to power the unit. You can use the 1.25" nosepiece, or unscrew it and you have a standard T2 thread inside for a more permanent mount. A neat, self-contained, guidance system, if you don't want to take a laptop or tablet out with you. Took me a little while to get the hang of it, but once I was used to it, I was getting excellent guiding on my Skywatcher EQ5 up to 10 mins exposures (never tried any longer) Cheapest on-line price I can find for a new one is £220 plus postage, so £175 posted to a UK address seems like a decent saving to me, for a virtually brand new unit.
  5. Hi. No, I spoke to ZWO and they said it will do Manual up to 30 seconds, but it doesn't support Bulb mode. Must be the firmware, as the 5100 is version A & B and the 5200 (which is fully supported) is version C PS - been watching your Youtube videos on the ASIair - excellent for getting me plugging the right wires into the right holes - Cheers
  6. Bought a new ASI 224MC off FLO Hi I'm moving off a DSLR and onto an ASIAIR based system, so am looking for a reasonable starter ZWO colour camera that will work with the ASIAIR (it isn't compatible with my Nikon D5100 for Bulb exposures) Anyone just upgraded to some lovely cooled beast, and want to shift their old basic one? I'm thinking of models similar to the ASI178MC - I have a 120MM mini guider coming with the ASIAIR Cheers
  7. I have an EQ5 and Synscan, and have no issue doing a 2 star align, so at the risk of duplicating some other advice on here, here’s my 2p 1. Spend a bit of time getting your Home/Park position correct. You can do this indoors - you just need a small spirit level. I followed these instructions and got the 2axis marked up so I can always start off at the right point https://worcspaul.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/accurately-setting-the-“home”-or-“park”-position-on-a-skywatcher-eq5-pro-mount/ 2. Download the Polar Scope Align app (it’s free) This will give you an accurate Lat/Long for your position, plus it will show you where Polaris should be, as you look through the polar scope. 3. Don’t forget the date format on the Synscan is mm/dd/yyyy 4. Make sure your mount is level before starting a polar align. Use a compass to make sure the leg marked N is pointing reasonably accurately north. 5. Make sure it’s actually Polaris you are aligning to - yes I know! Do your align at twilight when Polaris is not surrounded by neighbours, then come back later. 6. Use an app like StarMap 3D to identify your alignment stars, if your not absolutely sure. Use a medium powered eyepiece. No Barlow. 7. Choose 2 Star align and it will usually pick a really obvious first star - Arcturus at the moment. It should get close to it, but centre it using the handset, so it knows how far off it was. 8. Let it choose the second star and use StarMap to confirm it’s actually visible from your position. It will get pretty close, but will need another tweak with the hand set to centre. 9. Doing this, I’ve never had anything other than Alignment Successful come up. Sorry if this all sounds a bit basic, but it’s normally the really obvious things that we forget to do Hope this helps, and you get yourself sorted
  8. Have picked up a SW EQ5 GOTO Mount at a good price. Let’s see if that does the trick. Thanks for the advice and help :-)
  9. Thanks Geoff - I had a feeling that I had come up against the limits of the mount. I'm thinking an EQ5 would be the way forward?
  10. It's the alt-azi mount, so no polar alignment needed. Pic of it, as bought, attached Balance sounds like a good place to start -thank you
  11. HI Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I have a SW ED80 on a SW GOTO mount that originally had a SW 127 Mak on it. I am very careful to get it setup correctly - spirit level, accurate Lat/Lon/Time etc. I always use the 2 Star alignment (Sirius and Arcturus at the moment) and it finds objects no problem. However...........out of 10 exposures of a DSO, I will get 1 spot on, 3-4 with small startrails (often comma shaped) and 5-6 with stars as 2 small, distinct dots, linked together (as if it's jumped to a new position rather than a smooth pan) It's got to the stage where I can't do more than 30 second exposures, as the failure rate gets higher with longer times. Any clues? Cheers Dave
  12. Hurrah - success It was the shaft centering screw that needed loosening off then adjusting until everything ran smoothly. It’s an absolute dream now ? Thank you to everyone who responded, and especially Andy for the links with the photos of the adjusting screws Cheers Dave
  13. Thanks Andy. That’s a real help. I’ll give it a go ?
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