Davehux

The StellaLyra 6&8" RCs use 90mm x 1 extension rings. Available from FLO in 25mm and 50mm https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/stellalyra-m90-50mm-extension-for-6-8-rc-cc.html

As a very happy ASIair user for a couple of years (V1 and now Pro), thought I’d add my 2p to the comments on here WiFi - yes, the Pro on its own has the range of a length of spaghetti -it’s a well known ‘feature’ of the metal case. Many of us use the TP-Link AC 750 travel router. Mine sits on top of the Pro using 4 Velcro pads. I power it from one of the Pro USB ports. Gives me the 30m I need to connect to my home WiFi router, so I can control the Pro from anywhere within my home WiFi range. Flats & Dark Flats - the latest firmware has an Auto function for flats. Just select it and the Pro will set a suitable exposure time for the flats. For dark flats, press the dropdown button next to the exposure and it will fill in the same exposure time as your flats. If you like ZWO cameras and accessories, it’s a great bit of kit. Just think of it as the Apple of the Astro World - connect the right bits to it, and it all just works 🙂 Also, join the official ZWO ASIAIR Facebook page. You will get all the updates on the new software releases, and tons of help from very friendly people about using your Pro.

Hi mate. Looks like the job. Should have a Canon bayonet on the other side to fit into your camera body. The clip-in filter won’t affect the flattener, as it fits inside the camera body, in front of the mirror. Dave

Hi Raf Glad you’re getting on with my old scope. It will give you some great images. Basics first. For photography, use the flattener. It rounds out the stars in the far corners of the frame, and reduces the focal length, so effectively gives you a ‘faster’ lens (more light gathering ability) For visual, remove the flattener, stick in the diagonal plus eyepiece of your choice and off you go. Either of the those adapters will sleeve down the 2” diagonal to 1.25” (the most common size for eyepieces) You need a Canon bayonet T ring to connect the camera to the end of the flattener. As it’s a DSLR, it probably has 55mm back focus already, from the end of the flattener to the sensor inside the camera, so it should now be good to go. If/when you buy a dedicated Astro camera, you’ll need to use extension rings (normally supplied) to get the 55mm back focus. Hope that helps you get started 🙂 Dave

Hi Russ What software are you using? I use an ASIair, and the dither waits until the guiding graph settles to within my set parameters - I have mine set to <2s variance on RA and Dec. Once it settles to within that limit, it will fire the next exposure. It’s not time-based. Dave

I use one of these on my Nikon D5200. I cut the cable on the dummy battery, and soldered the voltage dropper onto the leads. 10 min job, and I can now run it off any 12v outlet (I use an ASIair, but any power outlet would do.) Mine is simply velcro’d onto the bottom of the camera, for ease of removal if I want to use it as a normal DSLR £4 for the dropper and £12 for the dummy battery, from eBay. Wait 3 weeks for them to arrive from China, and save a heap of money 🙂

Being a tightwad, I wasn’t going to spend £30 on two bolts, so I bought these for 10 quid. Work perfectly and don’t foul the polar cap on my HEQ5. I gave them a spray of WD40 and greased the threads to stop corrosion. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183147383975

Hi Neil The 224 has a good reputation as a planetary camera. The 178 is more for deep sky. I bought a 224, but returned it and bought a 178 as, for me, the FOV was too small for plate solving via the ASIair I use. Very happy with the 178. This image of M42 was taken with it last week, on my 80ED Hope this helps

Hi everyone I'm tempted with the Revelation Superfocus R&P focuser to replace the standard one on my SW Evostar 80ED https://www.telescopehouse.com/accessories/focusers/revelation-superfocus-2-inch-rack-n-pinion-refractor-focuser.html I know it needs an adapter to fit it to the tube, but Telescope House can't supply me with one, even though they've said many people have fitted them to SW scopes. Has anyone managed to source one, and from where? Many thanks Dave

I have an EQ5 and Synscan, and have no issue doing a 2 star align, so at the risk of duplicating some other advice on here, here’s my 2p 1. Spend a bit of time getting your Home/Park position correct. You can do this indoors - you just need a small spirit level. I followed these instructions and got the 2axis marked up so I can always start off at the right point https://worcspaul.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/accurately-setting-the-“home”-or-“park”-position-on-a-skywatcher-eq5-pro-mount/ 2. Download the Polar Scope Align app (it’s free) This will give you an accurate Lat/Long for your position, plus it will show you where Polaris should be, as you look through the polar scope. 3. Don’t forget the date format on the Synscan is mm/dd/yyyy 4. Make sure your mount is level before starting a polar align. Use a compass to make sure the leg marked N is pointing reasonably accurately north. 5. Make sure it’s actually Polaris you are aligning to - yes I know! Do your align at twilight when Polaris is not surrounded by neighbours, then come back later. 6. Use an app like StarMap 3D to identify your alignment stars, if your not absolutely sure. Use a medium powered eyepiece. No Barlow. 7. Choose 2 Star align and it will usually pick a really obvious first star - Arcturus at the moment. It should get close to it, but centre it using the handset, so it knows how far off it was. 8. Let it choose the second star and use StarMap to confirm it’s actually visible from your position. It will get pretty close, but will need another tweak with the hand set to centre. 9. Doing this, I’ve never had anything other than Alignment Successful come up. Sorry if this all sounds a bit basic, but it’s normally the really obvious things that we forget to do 🙂 Hope this helps, and you get yourself sorted