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About The-MathMog

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  1. Sure is. It is easy to forget how high of a latitude Denmark actually is, compared to how the weather is. We basically had no snow this winter. That is because, looking at big weather-systems, we are basically sheltered by Norways mountains. The same latitude in the Americas, would be well into Canada.
  2. Yeah, definitely think I will. Almost certain that it was a case of being locked in place with big temperature-shifts for a while. And it is working fine and dandy again. Might do that. I do have the telescope and mount permanently set-up though, to minimize any changes in image-rotation, balance etc, and setup-time. Right now I can just bring the tripod out, then the mount with the telescope attached, bring cables in, and I'm pretty much rolling Indeed, having to send it off for repair or the like, was the last thing that I wanted to do, with 4 nights of clear night still to
  3. I own the ES HR Coma Corrector, and it works great for my camera/telescope setup, when the sensor to objective distance is correct. I've read in the manual that the distance isn't AS crucial with DSLR's (for some reason unbeknownst to me), but if you are still struggling with coma, then the recommended distance is 55mm from sensor to objective. And great images for such short exposures, but with a beast of a scope like that, no wonder..
  4. I got it loose! Thanks for the help! I used some duct-tape on the coma corrector, and then made an improvised double-sided tape for grip. Then as suggested I gave it some good taps with the end of a plastic multitool, and it came loose in no time. Thanks a lot you all!
  5. I own this one, and have spaced it from "A", and that works fine
  6. First time in a years time it has happened to me, and could only really find one other thread about it, so not sure. It has been working amazingly until now. I'll try that, but as mentioned, at times when applying enough force, the whole Clicklock will just turn around the coma corrector, showing that it isn't holding it THAT tight. And I can't really get a grip on the two parts of the clicklock that needs to rotate from one another either. Just cleaning it if it works, will be worth the hazzle ^^ I'll give that a go, cheers.
  7. Darn, I sure hope it doesn't come to having to have them repair it... F the clicklock, the ES Coma Corrector is the heart and soul.. I might try those suggestions of yours. Not sure exactly what nylon strap oil filter wrench exactly translates to in danish, but I'll have a look. Only issue is too, as said, the coma corrector is very slippery, and there isn't really a part of it, that is easy to get a good grip on.. And even if I hold it, the whole clicklock just seems to turn around it, as if its grip is not THAT tight. I'll try to see if I can release it after this session, as it will
  8. So, I wanted to change the distance from my camera sensor to my coma corrector, but before removing the assembly from the telescope, I was unable to release the lock on the Baader 2" Clicklock... When trying to turn it, it just screws off of the telescope (as that is how it is mounted). I can remove the other parts, and easily take the whole train off the telescope, but the click-lock is stuck to my coma corrector, and I can't for the love of me get it to release... If I use enough force, the Clicklock just slowly slides around the coma corrector, and it is slippery as hell, so I can't get a
  9. I had something similar to this recently, and found out that it was an asteroid that slowly moved through the picture through the night. So when LRGB was taken it was in a slightly different spot. I don't have enough knowledge to say that this is certainly the case, but a possibility.
  10. That is one stunning image right there! Great job!
  11. As mentioned, a bit green/yellowish to my eyes too. I don't really see much of the uneven background though. But great data! And I couldn't help myself, having a twiddle with it in photoshop. This is how I personally would color-balance it Using the color balance tool, until the background is nice and black, giving my eyes "rest" and then looking at it again. A curve, boosting the blue areas of the galaxy, and then a slight saturation boost + some local sharpening on the dusty parts.
  12. You'd need to redo the flats yes. Anytime you change your setup/remove camera/remove filter, you need to take flats again, as they only work when you keep the imaging train the same as the lights. Darks you don't need to take again. Not sure with dark-flats as I've never used those. Flats should be taken after each session, as dust can have changed positions. Darks you can reuse, if the settings are the exact same, hence why some people make "dark-libaries", where they have a collection of dark frames with different exposure/temperature/gain values.
  13. That image doesn't seem all too bad. If you had a lot of those, stacked properly, I'd think that would yield good results. Have you tried stacking with DSS? And cheers - all trials and errors the last few years
  14. I I'd say, just continue using the Bahtinov mask. If of good quality, it can produce near perfect focus. There is even tools (sharpcap has it), that analyses the Bahtinov spikes, and help you focus. When working with FWHM (full width half maximum), just get the number as low as you can, that is the best focus. Alright. The 0.85 SW reducer, will definitely help your image, in the edges. I'd personally go for it, as assembling and disassembling an imagetrain can be training in itself. I read about someone, who when processing an image, would get to a point where he was happy wit
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