RolandKol

And my third test target from yesterday
also only 6x300s SHO  

My second and new target for a while...

Started it yesterday, but clouds came and stopped above me.... fell a sleep while waiting...

SHO only 6x300s each  
( I will deal with amp glow later, - just checking if the target is worth to continue  I think it does )

My last session result... (Still work in progress)
SHO from Woolwich, London [22/27-10-2018] 33x300s each filter.
ASI1600MM-Pro + 130PDS
 

30 minutes ago, spillage said:

@RolandKol Nice round stars. What type of corrector are you using. I have constantly had tilt and distance issues using the baader mk111.

It is Skywatcher's one, which works as a 0.9 reducer...  And due to that, I was made to "circumcise" by 1cm my focuser's drawtube, -  it protruded too deep into the scope and casted nasty shadow on the primary mirror, which caused brighter starst to look like letter D.

P.S. 1 cm is probably not enough... I still do not like brighter stars on other images.

P.P.S.

Thanks!

Just a quick stretch to check what's inside....

(12x300s HSO with Baader 7nm and ASI1600MM-Pro)

Clouds interrupted the session, - looks promising

Work in progress

19 minutes ago, PaulM said:

Which mounts are being used with the 130P

Is the EQ3 PRO mount sufficient for AP\imaging which is the mount FLO sell it with : https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-eq3-2.html

It looks like a lot is people posting images here are using EQ5\HEQ5 or higher mounts?

Your observations are totally correct...
HEQ5 is considered as the Minimal requirement, due to Scope and Imaging set up weight and guiding capabilities...

(130PDS 4kg, plus imaging cam, plus guiding scope, plus guiding cam, plus cables and you are above 5kg). 

P.S.

There is a difference between 130P and 130PDS, be careful.

On 18/07/2018 at 07:44, Muzz said:

Hi All,

Having recently acquired a Skywatcher ED80 I am looking for a finder scope.

I am wondering if it's worth getting this in due course first. It would serve as a finder / Guidescope if / when I go down the route of guiding.

Would save having to buy another dovetail for on top of the scope and would save having to buy a finder now then replace it in future?

Not sure if being daft but thought it might be an option.

Clear Skies,

Murray

Yep... Initially, you have to twist and turn it a lot to get in focus as it moves in a very small steps.

but once done... Lock the focus and forget for ages...

I did focus on the distant tree during a daytime initially and later fine focused at night, - do not remember how long time ago... Back in February probably...

Nice topic... I always wanted to try attaching it to my Canon 1300D...

Most of the websites have description line like this: "It can also be used as a finderscope, small lens for your camera or just as a small richfield telescope for travelling!"

Does not look like it can be "small lens for your camera" at all  

Unless it's a small chip size one ... like ZWO 224 or similar.

That's it!...

Hide all your cards and wallets...

On 13/07/2018 at 11:31, pipnina said:

Finding this thread just makes me more excited for the coming darkness! I got to do a few tests with my 130-PDS (hopefully I've got the hang of it all now!) during and just before summer twilight. Not sure what I'm going to photograph first though. My camera has pitiful Ha response (One day I'll complete the build with OAG and a cooled CMOS...) and the central milky way nebulae (M8, M16 etc) are too low down for me to image (without exposing the precious to the road and pavement... and street lamp glare!)

On a side note, has anyone else found the 130-PDS prone to stray light? In an image I took recently I noticed a gradient in the image that seemed too "sharp" to be vignetting or sky gradients. (The glowing pale lobe to the left hand side)

Are there measures that can be taken to prevent this?

Yep,  @carastro mentionned she has the same problem with stray light, she noticed it while taking darks during a daytime.
 

My first proper use of ASI1600MM on Veil Nebula [Back Garden, Woolwich, UK, 11/07/2018- 29x300s HA Bin x1, 27x25Os OIII Binx2], stacked in ASTAP, processed in PI. 

Another question, - for the future
Did anyone manage to attach Rotator to this train? SW CC>ZWO Filter Wheel>ASI1600?

On 05/07/2018 at 17:55, RolandKol said:

I guess this one is needed... "Female to Male" 48 to T2
https://www.365astronomy.com/t2-m48-converter-ring-with-female-m48-thread-and-male-t-thread-7mm-length.html

 

Just confirming, Skywatcher Coma Corrector and ZWO filter wheel are now properly connected, using the T2 >48 converter ring.
Will check focusing tonight.

Many Thanks all for help  
 

P.S. went out, preparing myself for Veil Nebula hunt

7 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Are you sure it's the shirt, it should be out of focus, it may be the Bayer matrix.

Dave

Yep, quite a nice notice, have not thought about it... But a Bayer Matrix grid usually (at least once taken via telescope) is much smaller in comparison to a cotton pattern- my pattern was as expected to be from the shirt, odd...

Unfortunately, I have deleted these flats as I was not happy with them... will double check again.

Hi guys, 
I am a bit out of topic, but was not able to find examples on any other places and this topic has lots of photographers in on place.

So I do apologise in advance.

I recently tried to make some "Longer" exposures with my Canon Kit Lens and was struggling to take flats after ...
The camera is fitted piggyback on 130PDS, I tried to shoot Flats at daytime at the sky, but cam catches some little clouds, so tried to place my white T-shirt on the lens, in this case, it catches the pattern of the shirt

It was much more easier with the scope than with kit lens!  

Any advice? 
 

P.S. I do need flats (as I noticed on other forums, some say they are not needed for Ap without the scope), I have strong vignetting and even some dust bunnies.

On 27/06/2018 at 10:42, Adam J said:

Directly connect the camera male connector to the filter wheel, then use the 21mm spacer included with the camera, then purchase a 7.5mm t-spacer and then connect to the coma corrector giving you a total spacing of 

6.5mm + 20mm + 21mm + 7.5mm = 55mm 

So the only thing that you need that you dont already have is the 7.5mm spacer 

I find this one to be of good quality. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-extension-tube.html

1

Does not fit... that 7.5mm T2 extender does not catch SW Coma Corrector threads, they are exactly the same size.
 

I guess this one is needed... "Female to Male" 48 to T2
https://www.365astronomy.com/t2-m48-converter-ring-with-female-m48-thread-and-male-t-thread-7mm-length.html

My first Moon in Narrowband
Ha=R, OIII=G, SII=B
My nappies are full of joy!!!

25 minutes ago, carastro said:

Wow that has come out well Roland.  Did my E Mail instructions help with this?  

What you should do now is take some Oiii and add it to the mix (will go into the green channel), there is a great Oiii shell surrounding the crescent, though I am not sure how it will come out from you location, so may have to wait for a dark site opportunity.

Carole 

3

Yep Carole, I was experimenting based on your email, thanks for the tips  
As per OIII, I did them... At least, I thought I did  

But only during the experiments of bending them together, I noticed that my OIII do look the same as HA subs...
it looks like, my Filter Wheel was connected via Simulation Option and, of course, it stayed on HA all the time

Plus, now I think I placed incorrectly Nebula in the frame... That little "surprise" Soup Bubble Nebula is left out ;(

I will try OIII tonight, - the filter has very odd marking in the center, I hope it will not make any impact, will check my Flats tomorrow.

As per Star Diffraction spikes, - I always have quite a nice-sharp spikes in the single subs, but they become blurry after stacking... 

I struggle to sharpen them back

This is my final result of my initial test combining ASI1600MM-Pro HA and Canon 1300D images.
I always kill diffraction spikes

I just googled and found another one, - a bit cheaper, 

but not sure if it will fit...
https://www.altairastro.com/Easy-Grip-7.5mm-T2-Extension-Tube-Spacer.html

2 minutes ago, simmo39 said:

Can you tell me please? need to get it right in my head for when I get mine.

thanks

I am still waiting for the delivery, but I went as suggested below:

On 27/06/2018 at 10:42, Adam J said:

Directly connect the camera male connector to the filter wheel, then use the 21mm spacer included with the camera, then purchase a 7.5mm t-spacer and then connect to the coma corrector giving you a total spacing of 

6.5mm + 20mm + 21mm + 7.5mm = 55mm 

So the only thing that you need that you dont already have is the 7.5mm spacer 

I find this one to be of good quality. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-extension-tube.html

No problem Tommohawk as Adam J already told me how to do it.

On 10/03/2014 at 16:26, Russe said:

How big was the difference between the full spectrum modded Canon and the Atik 383L?

This is the one I've been thinking about. Or the QHY8... (but it's not mono...).

I just got ASI1600MM, - there is no way any DSLR will be close to cooled Astro cam... unless you will manage to cool DSLR to -15C or more, in such a case... Probably the difference will be small, but only if the price would be taken into account.
But if speaking about effectiveness.... The whole night with my CANON ( around 4.5 hours 200sec per sub, around 80 subs in total) = around 10 subs with ASI1600MM in NB (300sec). 

Plus imaging while full moon made me happy!

This is y "Pizza Palette" - Canon 1300D (70subs) and ASI1600MM 15 subs in HA, - still learning
All subs mixed together, re-mixed again and etc, - simply been trying out what can be done. 

Uranium235

How do you get such a sharp star diffraction spikes? Perfect guiding?

I struggle to Polar align as I do not see Polaris, PA error around 3"  what's yours?

6 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Directly connect the camera male connector to the filter wheel, then use the 21mm spacer included with the camera, then purchase a 7.5mm t-spacer and then connect to the coma corrector giving you a total spacing of 

6.5mm + 20mm + 21mm + 7.5mm = 55mm 

So the only thing that you need that you dont already have is the 7.5mm spacer 

I find this one to be of good quality. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-extension-tube.html

Many THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!

6 minutes ago, Susaron said:

QHY168C and ASI385MC

I was struggling in between QHY168C and ASI1600MC.

Ended up with 1600MM mono and the empty wallet  
(filters and etc...).
 

the QHY168C image a bit confused me... what are these stripes? Never seen anything similar on my CANON and ASI224MC images...
my 1600MM arrived yesterday and I have not tested it on the Moon yet.