RolandKol

@souls33k3r

What about sticking in the Tall Garden Umbrella and use it as a camouflage once mount is covered properly?
it will probably have some Mount corners sticking out a bit, but probably will do the job you need

Hmmm quite a list!!!
https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product-category/discontinued-product

I hope they are not planning to "Close the Shop" completely!

The problem is actually in all those tutorials...

I fell on them, probably just like majority newbies did... I do believe my PDS was quite well collimated, but it was my first scope for AP, and I read a lot and checked youtube tutorials before I touched the secondary, and guess what?

All of the tutorials suggest to adjust the secondary during the usual collimation routine of the primary, and guess what? None of them actually highlight, - "Do not touch the Central Bolt of the secondary!!!".

So I have adjusted even the central bolt as other 3 were quite tight...

And later star test became soo bad... Just like yours... And maybe even worse! And I had only laser at that time and could not figure out why it is so bad, as laser beam was in center and etc

So I ordered Cheshire, while waiting it to come by post, disassembled scope into small peaces, flocked it, centered focuser, placed Autofocuser, put all back together and had a prolonged battle with the secondary... Which is not yet 100% finished

P.S. But I would afraid to do it to Quattro!!!  130PDS is in completely different price range... in fact, thats why I bought it, - to learn the "anatomy" of the Newtonian! 

plus, I guess... Battle with F4 is much more difficult than with F5

Thanks a lot for your explanation.

And yes, the main problem in my case with 130PDS, - the position of the secondary along the scope axis...  As I simply not able to see the Primary Mirror Clips, so I constantly swap Cheshire with my EP Cap  And it is the main pain...

Once more or less in center, - I move the secondary in circles using 3 adj.bolts and once once clip starts to show, I move mirror other direction, -  to hunt for the second clip, - later for the 3rd. Once I see that these adjustments are really minor,

I check via the EP cap if the secondary mirror looks co-centric... if all looks nice, wait a week or even two for the clear skies to test!!  

 Nightmare!  

I even tried adjusting the Primary into Top or Lower end of the OTA by adjusting it's collimation bolts to the end limit or loosening, - no use... Clips not visible in the Cheshire anyway...

I even think of the artificial star and try the collimation using it.

P.S. your images and Alnitak tells me all!  you do all correctly!

5 minutes ago, glowingturnip said:

I use a long one with my 200PDS - with the secondary properly positioned I can *just* about see all of the mirror through it, at which point I'd say I'm good.

Just putting the cheshire, or even a laser into a focusser that has the two tightening knobs isn't even going to help either, you really need one of those compression collar style focussers to make sure the collimation tool is square in the tube.

It's a pain - my 200PDS was well out of collimation when it came new, but it was in Spain, maybe came from handling during shipping.  Took me a whole afternoon to get the 2ndry right with the Cheshire, but with that done, it's now just a 5 minute job with the laser, then pop the cheshire in afterwards for a quick pat on the back at how nicely lined up it looks

My 130PDS does not want to show all mirror holders via long Cheshire whatever I do!  I do have a special EP holder to make it square, - it helped a lot. And yes,  - without it, it was more luck or guesswork even with cheshire....

However, 3 holders are not visible and it is still a bit of guesswork at the moment....

I do have a cheap laser, - do not trust it anymore... had funny results.

I would be very glad if you  would share your Secondary Collimation routine, - I want to get the secondary to perfect position during summer. Now it's very close, - even afraid to touch

Welcome to the collimation BattleField of the Secondary Mirror!

It looks like you have PDS just like me... And I can assure you, even if you would have Cheshire - you would fail to place the secondary correctly from the first time.

Without it, - not even worth a try... Laser will not help with this task....

So order one, - even second hand, try once received.

Just not sure, which one is better for PDS, - short or long one... Short are used for refractors after focuser change, but long ones do not show mirror clips on PDS , - a bit too long.

Maybe someone else is able to advice on it.

P.S.

I just noticed TV like image if guide cam setup up via ASCOM driver and on 8bit, 

16bit puts image back to normal

And I failed to produce the printable drawing...

Scaling is changing once exported to .pdf of .jpg... I have not managed to find a proper settings to keep the scale 1x1...

Maybe someone more experienced is able to do it properly

Hole Dimensions bellow.

If you bought it new,

I would send it back for a complete refund and would go ASI way....

if it was a second hand one... not sure what to advise...

so what about the latest PHD2 v2.6.6????

My cap is printing...

also, .pdf version is ready for cap hole drills without removing the cap

unfortunately, I do not have printer at home... Will print it tomorrow at work, to test the dimensions

10 minutes ago, Shelster1973 said:

Do you have the temp probe with the Sesto too?  I contemplated buying that, but find £41 a bit on the steep side (hey this is astronomy....) for what is effectively a thermistor and a 3.5mm jack.  Am doing some looking around to see if I can find out what particular thermistor they use and see how much they cost.  Can then knock up one that fits exactly to where I need it and does not require me to hide masses of extra cabling

it looks like ordinary DS18B20 for around £2

https://telescopes.net/store/primalucelab-temperature-sensor-for-sesto-senso-focus-motor.html

If one software does see it, but not the others, - probably driver issue.

I am not very familiar with Windows 10 registries and etc, but sometimes they misbehave in such a manner that un-install and re-install drivers have not hellped...

which forced me to re-install windows several times just to make some things to work (not AP related).

In your case if a complete ASCOM and diver re-install does not work

I would take another / fresh PC for test. Install all ASCOM related software (platform, drivers for the mount and camera), later dedicated cam drivers and the software for AP - run a test, if all goes fine.

Wipe windows clean on the initial PC and repeat

It is very unusual problem you have got... I had a similar one with EQMOD and mount connection (battle took around 1 month with my victory), once it started to work, I was afraid to wipe the windows for a year!

Nice Idea!

I will prepare a 3d print replacement cap with a place for the small Allen key holder inside (so I will never forget it ever again!), plus the drawing will have the exact measurements of the holes for the original cap drilling task.

Will share later on, once finish and test, as I never succeed to create a successful model from the first attempt!

I recall, I you already had one topic about it...

PHD2 just released an update (2 days ago), - does it misbehaves also? as my ASImini was not recognized by previous version at all.

What about slider near the brain button at the bottom? Full to the right should make screen darker

If you mean directly to the Laptop, - you can try another USB cable, or swap cables between cameras and test.

If it's a cable, - solution is simple...

if it's cam, - I would send it back

How is it connected?

I use ASImini which is connected to ASI1600MM and which goes to the powered USB hub.

And I noticed some connection problems if I connect my Canon into the same UBS hub.

While Canon finishes the exposure and file is downloading, it freezes my ASImini for around 21sec.

I simply switched my canon off as I was just testing... but now.. I do not recall if I have enabled USB hub power at all!!!

Yes, these bloody caps are a bit recessed...

8 minutes ago, Astrokev said:

Yes, sorry if I wasn't clear. My point was that I don't need the adjustment rail (not yet anyway ?) so to but this product would in essence be paying £129 for just the caps. 

Good point about only needing to remove one cap to loosen the grip on the alt axis. I better make sure I try and remove the correct one ?

hrrr, I was late to delete that sentence!

Anyway, good luck with adjustment!

keep in mind, once you will be ready to tighten them back, go round slowly, bolt by bolt with the more or less the same tension.

As I have damaged my cap, - I simply locked the mound in ALT.  
And it's nice I have noticed your topic, as I am planing to go to the astrocamp!

I would have forgotten to loosen them before ALT adjustment with a key left at home in the "lab"!!!

7 minutes ago, Astrokev said:

I'm not quite that mad. I don't have a bendy bolt problem so it seems rather pricey just for a couple of caps!

I'll try and soften the adhesive and see if I can gently prize the caps off. If they break, well, so be it! It's a shame it's not possible to get (sensibly priced) replacements. 

as per caps, - you do not need to remove both!

Only the one which has degrees on it! The main one, - the one, you actually use for PA!  hehe

(Sometimes, to strangle the engineer, is NOT a Crime!)

2 minutes ago, Astrokev said:

Ouch that sounds painful. 

Loosening the 3 screws sounds the way to go  

Can you suggest how to remove the cover without breaking it?

I used a heatgun... failed... as damaged the plastic... it is very sensitive... Heatgun had no impact for several minutes, but once got a bit closer... plastic warped... 

One, much more clever solution (which another forum member used, sadly I was not so inventive), to use a strong metallic wire or fishing line and cut it out.

P.S. I was made to do it as my Atl Bolt damaged the thread in the Mount!

Your new ones, can do the same!

So I had to re-thread the mount!  was quite a painful task... However, I also loosened these 3 bolts to make ALT adjustments easier, so I would not damage the Thread again.

Once Polar Aligned, I tightened them back

yep.. it sounds, like... unfortunately, you will need to remove the altitude cap and loosen 3 bolts which tightens or even Locks ALT movement.

On another hand, you can try to lower head South as and try to adjust North direction only.. with tiny adjustments trying Not over-adjust....

I would go for the second option initially and very carefully!

P.S. my model is here if someone needs it by any chance.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3514044