RolandKol

42 minutes ago, GraemeH said:

+1 for going down the DIY route.

I made one of these https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/ for my EdgeHD8 without really having a high level of soldering skill.  The instructions are excellent and Robert is responsive to questions on the sourceforge forum.  I think mine cost around £40, including buying loads more than I actually needed (I found it cost around the same to buy some components by the 100 as it does to buy 3 or 4) so when I make another for another scope it will cost even less.

Totally agree!

I am already on the second Autofocuser project, - for my piggyback setup

He has video tutorials and even other members did some vids, like this one https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5CMEGxixMP1wuNk-1mmfhA

Long, but tells all from A to Z, - he did a very basic one and software changed a bit since, but quite good introduction.

I used NEMA17 PG27 motor and DRV8825, - with direct shaft connect, almost Zero backslash, but if you will decide to use pulley, I am almost sure such a precise and expensive is motor is actually NOT needed, so total price can be even  50% lower.

I did one myself, with thermometer and etc.

Total price around £60, works perfectly with SPG and APT, one step = 2.42 microns.

Not electrician... So had to buy soldering equipment and multimeter (just in case, - handy to have anyway).

took a bit to read and learn, - but I have now the tool, which is kinda "unbreakable", if something will go off, - easy to fix as I know every part

https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/files/

The guy who shares his project, - worth Gold!

I have no black plastic at all  first one was white  spray paint sticks well!

18 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

To save me downloading it and firing up cura - what diameter is it?

150mm

Just for fun,

maybe someone needs one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476080

Bahtinov mask is next and the cover of Primary mirror holders  after.

I would choose Mak... 

Dob in town centre,  will be limited to the planets mainly.

Transporting 10" Dob not fun at all.

As I recall @Gina has done something similar.

If I am wrong, - I am almost sure she will be able to direct you 

15 minutes ago, Adam J said:

I can 100% confirm to you that you will not have sufficient back-focus to accommodate the clicklock I tried it and it did not even work with a Baader MPCC MKIII and that does not change the focus position like the SW CC does. By moving the primary mirror an uncomfortable distance up the tube I was able to just...and I mean just reach focus with my LRGB filters but I was not able to reach focus with my thicker astrodon narrowband filters. I was not comfortable with leaving the primary hanging like that as I did not believe that it would hold colimation. 

You could try pairing it with a Explore Scientific Coma corrector as that moves the focus out 3.5cm....but that's an expensive game to play. 

Adam

Thanks a lot for confirmation Adam!
It looks like my upgrades are done for now....

Looking for the last upgrade.

Baader ClickClock looks luring...

Has anyone tried it with SW CC which is also 0.9 reducer and ASi1600MM?

That lock is 30mm, - I afraid my ASi  will not get in focus with it while focuser is Fully IN.

6 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I use Photoshop + paints Shop pro

Unfortunately, - no idea.... I am a complete "Vacuum" in the Photoshop...

49 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Here's a question... in RGB the OIII part of the Rosette looks a sort of washed-out red compared to the Ha parts.

Is there a trick with selective colour or similar I could use to turn it blue with being overly artificial?

Not sure which software you use,

in Pix, you can run Color Mask script to generate Mask for each color and brighten the part for OIII.

In this case, I was actually made to push it very hard... as most of my OIII subs went to the bin ;(

"Workinprogress"
My OIII was a complete rubbish... had to crop a lot ;(
A bit overcooked, but I like it
 

OK!  So at last I think I have managed to finish off the collimation of the secondary

My tests on the bright stars from yesterday are still waiting at home, but a short stack looked very very promising!

Thanks all for any advice given!  happy!

Also... As lots of here are with 130PDS plus ASI or Canons, - been thinking maybe someone is interested in teaming up on the same target?

I have created a topic below,  - drop a line if you are interested!

9 hours ago, kens said:

I know how it works - I wrote it  It is a digital Bessel filter with a tuneable cutoff frequency.  Unlike the other algorithms it has flat response in the pass band and no nodes in the stop band and being a Bessel filter has linear phase response. The filter is fourth order so approximately 24dB per octave suppression above the cutoff.

It is the ability to tune the cutoff frequency as a function of exposure time that makes it useful. By allowing short exposure times you can reduce latency but still filter out the high frequency seeing-related deviations.

Sounds like adaptive guiding algorithm to me  I have completely forgot PHD has different options to choose

Will test my NEQ6 on your "Z-ombie" algo tonight if weather allows  as my mount went mad and does not want to guide properly on 3sec, - however on 1sec it works quite good, - around 0.55 Total RMS.

I doubt it can perform any better, but.... "curiosity killed the cat"

by the way, - why Z?

It looks like strongly overcorrecting...

Try reducing guide pulse down to 1000...

And maybe enable the time lapse option adding 2 or even 5sec delay

Yep! all nice

tried it before moving to SGP   (around 5 months ago) and it did not want to recognize my ZWO filter wheel

I was unlucky and was made to cash out a bit ;(

1 hour ago, Uranium235 said:

I meant tweaking collimation slightly to get the corner stars perfect   Three are acceptable, one is a bit "meh".

Hi, do you use simple Cheshire for collimation?

I struggle a bit with my secondary... My Cheshire is just a bit Wobbly in and results are bit "luck" dependant.  
 

Loosing my patience...

I made a bad decision... Just before putting OAG on, decided to collimate my secondary for the last time...

Now I simply cannot get my stars back  I tried to change camera and CC spacing 55mm with +-2 and +-1mm using darling rings...

result is more or less the same as below.... I thought I have somehow managed to over-tighten the primary during collimation... loosening the bolts did not help...

a bit confused what has caused this.

If you have no option to step up and get HEQ5 level mount, check for a second hand one. 

As sooner or later, Exos2 will not be enough for you expectations.

On another hand, if you will put Camera (for ex. Canon) and 135mm or maybe even 300mm Canon lens on it,

It looks like this mount will be more than enough to download quite a nice images from the sky without any telescope 

To summarize,  - it will mostly depend on what rig you are planning to put on the top. 

Hi DS, I will completely agree with Alan and support any of his advises.

Just keep in mind the main points while choosing another one:

1) Payload, - mount Must be able to carry some extra, not just the scope. if you will try diving into astrophotography, you will add camera, field flattener or coma corrector, guiding camera, guiding scope, few meters of USB cables all other around.

So that extra payload should not be just 1kg, but the More is better  probably 5kg extra as minimum.

2) all specifications about gears/belts, amount of stars in the memory, WiFi, -  are completely irrelevant for the entry level mounts, - the main quality is Ability to track without errors (or probably more correct, - with as much little errors as possible).

For short Focal Length scopes up to F10, Skywatcher HEQ5 (which is a bit better than a simple EQ5) has proved itself as one of the best entry level mounts for Astrophotography.

So keep the level of specs of HEQ5 as a starting point. 
If you still need AZ option for visual, there are even AZ/EQ mounts (two in one) like this one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-az-eq5-gt-geq-alt-az-mount.html

In Skywatcher brand, they are usually more expensive as they are like End Of the Class and usually considered a better quality.

P.S.

You have not mentioned which scope you plan to add on top. If not decided yet, try keeping F value low as Entry level mounts will not be able to guide properly at longer focal lengths.

P.P.S. As per WiFi, if you will try using one for AP, sooner or later you will run into some problems (guiding and reliability related, AP software connectivity issues, plus - not sure which camera will allow you to download images from it directly via WiFi) and you will Stick USB cable back, leave laptop next to the Mount and control it via another laptop using TeamViewer or similar option.

2 hours ago, spillage said:

I would just get a 10mm t2 extension and a pack of delrin as these should have three 1.0mm spacers allowing you to gain the extra 2mm with more left for fine tuning your cc.

I just looked at it once again... And these will go between CC and OAG... 

in such a case... OAG will go almost directly to EFW and I will not be able to focus a guiding cam.... as 11 mm will disappear which are now introduced by that bloody ZWO 11mm ring... 

thanks a lot!!!!

Will give a try

6 minutes ago, spillage said:

I would just get a 10mm t2 extension and a pack of delrin as these should have three 1.0mm spacers allowing you to gain the extra 2mm with more left for fine tuning your cc.

what is the delrin?

4 minutes ago, spillage said:

I sure this is the set I brought along with some delrin spacers.

thanks ... It  will take 6 weeks to come.... plus these are 2 in one (like 11mm+2mm from my picture), so I will need a 12mm which is not in the set
what a headache.....