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Posts posted by RolandKol
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Hi guys, anyone knows if there is a difference if bahtinov mask is larger than the primary mirror?
For example, 130PDS p.mirror is 130mm, but OTA is 150mm.
I want to make/3d print bahtinov with gaps covering full 150mm diameter, to allow more light in for focusing in HA.
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Anyway, simple look at the prism from guide cam view, directed at the light, makes everything clear.
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Embarrassing.
But yes, my bad
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23 minutes ago, jimjam11 said:
How is the performance? I love sgp but it's performance is terrible with cmos cameras where exposures are short (<30s). Sgp with the interframe performance of sharpcap would be the bees knees...
You can change Download speeds in SGP, to make short sub session faster...
Unfortunately I have not yet tried NINA on a short ones
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1 hour ago, Marmo720 said:
Very nice. I went neck deep without actually doing any observing/imaging. Bought HEQ5 Pro, got camera, now shopping for scopes.
Blame @RolandKol ?
As far as midlife crisis goes, it was between astronomy or paragliding. Missus seems happy with astronomy so paragliding has been postponed to next year!
What is your next target?
My Sincere apologies Mo!
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1 minute ago, artem said:
I am also " as you already may see ? " amazed from NINA.. I did " pay ?" so much money for commercial apps for imaging purposes and then surprised how good NINA performs..
Another SUB from yesterday 60 Seconds Ha with NINA guided with PHD2 " with NINA "
Cheers
Martin
yep, I am only sad, they fixed ZWO EFWL connection problem, only after I paid for SGP
I am lucky like always.... nothing new -
2 hours ago, Rob Farmiloe said:
How do you control your mount when using this App, does it run alongside EQmod?
Thanks.
In fact, with software like NINA, you even do not need star maps, like Stellarium or similar, - ofcourse, if you know your targets and do not need to search for them.
NINA has the skymap inside as an addon, or downloads target images from web (to save HDD space).
So once you created target and sequence via NINA it will move mount to the target.
Platesolving should be enabled to make it work properly.
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yep, not a big deal as I wrote, needed to remove my old one completely.
it was just a note for @jjosefsen that update does not work as planned
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PA tool?
was curious to check how it works and ran into the second bug...I have older NINA ver. 1.6.0.2, and once started, it shows available update to ver 1.7.0
update install failed at the end... re-downloaded new one, install fails, - need to remove old completely to get to ver 1.7.0.
Not a big deal, but something is missing in the update routine
P.S.
Win10 Pro 64bit, fully updated
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10 minutes ago, jjosefsen said:
I just checked the issue tracker, and no one has requested it yet. ? Kind of surprised by that..
https://bitbucket.org/Isbeorn/nina/issues?status=new&status=open&page=1
The usual issue with adding native support for a camera is if a contributor can get a hold of a camera, or someone steps up to put in the time to help with the testing.
Problem with Sony, - they have not shared their firmware code...
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Why it's so secret?
I am even getting curious
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I am almost sure, you will not be able to fit it wrong side if you have not removed prism with it's holder from the OAG body
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I will wait for a Ginger one!
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I have not checked it yet, but I guess Robert does sell his Mini or Similar focuser.
If he does,
At the end, I will buy one as a Thank You gesture. Even if I do not need it.
I learned a lot from him and I do have Actually Working Auto-focuser for peanuts!
As per DSD, - I had the same suspicion... It looked very very similar, I even thought maybe DSD is Robert himself....
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14 minutes ago, astrosathya said:
For 4 hours you've got a lot of data. I must be missing something in myprocesing. I too got 4 hours on Rosette this season, but it hasn't turned out as vivid as yours.
I used Pix to sort Images by quality and stack them based on quality, - maybe it was a trick.
Plus, in Light Polluted areas, it is difficult to compare the quality of the subs as if you have a direct light falling on, - yours will be worse...
I am lucky, my spot ended up in the shadow.... But trees limit my view very strongly, so I am not able to use optimal 300sec exposure.
P.S.
My subs are all on Unity gain, ASI1600MM-Pro
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2 hours ago, astrosathya said:
How many hours is this? I too live in Bortle 8 skies, I have both the Baader 7/8.5 Ha-O3 filters.
It was Ha / SII x 33, OIII x only 13 (around 40 OIII subs not used due to quality...), all 180sec, Total time 237min (4 hours - almost )
P.S.
I am really puzzled why Baader included OIII 8nm in their Bundle (probably simple pricing tactics)... I think OIII should be around 6nm to match the Bundle...
but then, - probably SII would be too week and etc.So try using your OIII while Moon is not in the way or even better, then it completely hiding... in my case, Moonless nights are always cloudy
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42 minutes ago, GraemeH said:
+1 for going down the DIY route.
I made one of these https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/ for my EdgeHD8 without really having a high level of soldering skill. The instructions are excellent and Robert is responsive to questions on the sourceforge forum. I think mine cost around £40, including buying loads more than I actually needed (I found it cost around the same to buy some components by the 100 as it does to buy 3 or 4) so when I make another for another scope it will cost even less.
Totally agree!
I am already on the second Autofocuser project, - for my piggyback setup
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He has video tutorials and even other members did some vids, like this one https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5CMEGxixMP1wuNk-1mmfhA
Long, but tells all from A to Z, - he did a very basic one and software changed a bit since, but quite good introduction.
I used NEMA17 PG27 motor and DRV8825, - with direct shaft connect, almost Zero backslash, but if you will decide to use pulley, I am almost sure such a precise and expensive is motor is actually NOT needed, so total price can be even 50% lower.
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I did one myself, with thermometer and etc.
Total price around £60, works perfectly with SPG and APT, one step = 2.42 microns.
Not electrician... So had to buy soldering equipment and multimeter (just in case, - handy to have anyway).
took a bit to read and learn, - but I have now the tool, which is kinda "unbreakable", if something will go off, - easy to fix as I know every part
https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/files/
The guy who shares his project, - worth Gold!
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I have no black plastic at all first one was white spray paint sticks well!
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18 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:
To save me downloading it and firing up cura - what diameter is it?
150mm
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Just for fun,
maybe someone needs one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476080
Bahtinov mask is next and the cover of Primary mirror holders after.
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I would choose Mak...
Dob in town centre, will be limited to the planets mainly.
Transporting 10" Dob not fun at all.
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As I recall @Gina has done something similar.
If I am wrong, - I am almost sure she will be able to direct you
Imaging with the 130pds
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
Just finished checking/testing.
No difference... Almost.
But the larger gaps actually do allow to use shorter exposure on the same gain/iso,
So a bit faster.
P.S.
"Perfect" (if such is possible) focus difference between 150mm and 130 was around 70microns.... PDS critical focus range is around 50... So .... Mathematically, should be a difference.
However,
Seeing is not perfect today.
Not yet sure.
But 5min stack with 150mm bahtinov focus looked just, just a bit better...
Again... Seeing could be a factor.