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Rick_It

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About Rick_It

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  1. Something below £300 is a fair price for the tube. As for the mount, if you can the best solution is to build it by yourself. You can have someone cutting the wood for you, so you will have just to assemble it. You have to purchase the formica laminate and the teflon pads. Only if you want encoder compatibility, you need a blacksmith (hope the word is correct) to make the central pivot with an hole for the encoder's shaft. Else, whatever M8 bolt will suffice.
  2. I have the OOUK VX8L. Second hand, for the OTA only, I paid a lower price than 500€. In any case, the OOUK has those advantage: - It's much more lighter (7-8kg) - It comes with a good dual speed focuser - Having the tube rings, you will have no problem in balancing even with heavier eyepieces, binoviewer. Do not underestimate this aspect, this is important. - A lot of focus available, can be used with the binoviewer (I think) and can be used with a reflex (I'm sure) - The mirror cell is really another planets w.r.t. the SW. It keeps collimation very very well - Commercial solid tube dobson mounts (GSO, Skywatcher) are horrible. They weight a lot, they have an undersized ALT movement and they use cheap bearing materials. Much better to build your own mount using teflon, formica, baltic birch and large disks for the ALT movement. Do not underestimate this, smooth movements are important when manually tracking a planet or a double star at 250x. You will also ends up with a lighter mount (mine weight about 7.5kg, but it can be made even lighter). Moreover, it's much easier to add encoders in your mount.
  3. Yes, but a C8 is not a rich-field scope, so it's not universal. For example, you can't frame the Pleiades. With a 200/1200 you get up to 2.26° FOV.
  4. I have only one scope, and I do pretty much everything with it. Orion Optics VX8L + DIY dobson mount + Nexus II. 25% CO and good optics = good performances on visual hi-res. 200mm + HiLux = good performances for visual DSO. With a EQ6 I could even take some long exposure pictures, but I'm not interested. And with a 3x barlow some serious hi-res imaging. Again, not interested but definitely possible. Set-up time around 4 minutes. What's left? It's not grab&go and I can't take it with me for holidays. But I'm totally in love with that scope, and I have lost all interests for new big scopes. I just want a small APO and a small ALT-AZ push-to mount.
  5. The concept is interesting, but it should be scaled up. A 350mm f5 (70mm lens) with the same body for example.
  6. What about this? 130mm, AZ-Pronto https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-az-pronto/sky-watcher-explorer-130ps-az-pronto.html
  7. It really depends on your budget. You generally need at least three eyepieces, or two plus a barlow lens. Low-power (to find objects and for large objects like the Pleiades and some large open clusters). Medium-power (to see most of nebulae, galaxies, clusters etc..). High-power (to see moon, planets, double stars). In a 200mm: - the medium power is around 80-120x, so 15mm to 10mm. - the high power is around 200x-250x, so 6mm to 5mm. - the low power is around 30x-50x, so 40mm to 30mm. Moreover, the wider the better (82° better than 60° better than 50°): basically, given the same magnification, you see a larger portion of the sky. A very good value for money are probably the BST: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces.html Of the two eyepieces which come with the telescope (25mm and 10mm), the 25mm is sufficiently good.
  8. The skywatcher is OK. Since it's cheaper (321€ on FLO) than the Omegon, you may want to add a Barlow: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/barlow-eyepieces/astro-essentials-125-2x-barlow-with-t-thread.html In this way you will have 25mm - 12.5mm - 10mm - 5mm. And you can even remove the optics of the barlow and screw it directly at the bottom of the eyepiece to obtain around 1.5x. Another thing (10€...) is a lunar filter. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/moon-neutral-density-filters/astro-essentials-nd96-0-9-1-25-moon-filter.html They are both suggested by FLO in the skyliner Dob page: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-200p-dobsonian.html
  9. I had the SkyMaster PRO 15x70, I tested them two weeks but I was not satisfied and I returned them. The reason is chromatic aberration in daytime use. Too much, at least for me. It was winter and I still remember the violet halo surrounding the branches of a tree I was looking at. They were good for astronomy however.
  10. This is a free Sky Atlas with a layout similar to Sky Atlas 2000, by Wil Tirion. There are 26 charts, in colours, down to mag 8.5 for stars and mag 12 for DSO. Each chart has associated a a list of all the DSO objects, ordered according to their magnitude + some double stars and variable stars. There is one atlas for each year, and each atlas incorporates data about events of that year. Epoch coordinates are also in the given year. Year 2020 and 2025 are simplified versions perfectly fit to be printed in A4. In my opinion it's very good and it fits a good niche between large atlases like Interstellarum and small / beginner atlases which go down only to mag 6.5-7. Link (it's the second project): http://conga.oan.es/~alonso/doku.php?id=projects PS: sorry if it is the wrong section, I have not found a "Book" section.
  11. As long as you are in EU, drop a mail at this guy in Germany. For sure he can make it, possibly he will do it. Some years ago he made a very nice 8" truss tube, very lightweight. http://dietermartini.de/
  12. The eyepiece is only 52°, very far from maximum TFOV for a 2". So if you have a 2" focuser and a normally designed telescope, there should be no problem. Why your society got this eyepiece, and not a 40mm 62° or a 40mm 68°?
  13. I was thinking at the same solution, thanks. Probably I will look for a Meade 140 on the second hand market.
  14. Thanks, I was not aware of that product. Yeah, it's a 2", for sure it will not vignette the 16mm. I wait for some other reply, maybe a 1.7-1.8x 1.25".
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