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About Luter68

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  1. Hi Steve, just placed the order for the scope and flattener (plua a ZWO OAG). I have add the request for the verification with the flattener. Looking forward to get it here.
  2. Hi, I have found this thread while looking for more details on the Es Reid tests on offer with the Esprit scopes. I have seen the summary description of the procedure on this thread, thank you. I would have a couple of further questions. What is in the test report? Is it a declaration (e.g., comformity to certain reference parameters)? does it include images (e.g., from the Ronchi test or of artificial sources)? Interferometric results? If I buy the scope with the flattener, is there also a test of the telescope with it? Thanks a lot.
  3. Indeed, on the Advanced Camera Services web site, I only see full spectrum conversion. I would prefer to have in a UV-IR cut filter (like the Baader one) to make things easier with other filters (e.g., some CLS filters do not have an IR cut). In the meanwhile, I found the Italian equivalent (perhaps more precisely seems the italian branch) of Teleskop-express (the german one offers modifications for Canons only). They offer modification for the D5100: http://www.teleskop-express.it/servizi-ts-italia/2888-modifica-astronomy-nikon-super-uv-ir-cut-e-brt-astronomy-expert.html Pricing seems reasonable to me. The filter they use is not a baader one but an unspecified one of which they show the transmission curve. The pages are in italian only but that is ok for me. Hopefully, they know what they are doing..... Clear skies
  4. Hi Parallaxerr, I am looking exactly for the same thing, with no success. Also for me, diy is not an option. did you find anything at the end? Anybody in Europe?
  5. I have an AVX, but carrying a smaller scope - mak127 plus a ZWO guide scope, that I use for imaging (with a 200mm camera lens mounted at the tip of the counterweight bar. So, my mount could have a easier job than yours. However, it took me nearly one year to manage to reach satisfactory 90s unguided exposures through a night. This is my experience and I hope it may be of help. 1) verify that the knobs locking the axes never touch the motor cases. I actually had this problem with the declination one. I was losing alignment in the middle of the night and did not understood why until I read about this somewhere and checked it. Then I dismounted the know and tightened it at a different angle so to be sure that never touch the case when tightened. 2) do a PA as good as you can. I added a polar scope and learned how to use it. It definitively helped to get a good start. 3) use always at least 4 calibration stars and an eyepiece with a crosshair. 4) make sure coordinates are correct and pay attention to enter the time as accurately as possible, possibly within 1 or 2s. 5) pay attention at balancing the mount. hope it help. good luck and clear skies.
  6. Hi, I am taking images with a Nikon D5100 and a 200 mm f/4 AI lens that I front stop to f/5.4. I also have an Hoya UV(0) filter attached. I have moderate to high LP from my backyard and I would like to add an LP filter to try to improve things. With a 200mm large nebular complexes are my main target but I am not too happy so far. I have a celestron AVX mount and I managed guiding to work, so I am not afraid of long exposures. On the long run I want to move to a mono cooled camera (ASI1600mm being my choice at the moment). With such a sensor format (I wouldn't consider spending more, so larger cameras are out) I can use 31mm filters in front of the camera, either with the lens or with a future small refractor I am also thinking of. For this reason spending a lot of money for a large filter to mount in front of the lens seems a waste to me. i fully realize that the Astronomik and Hutec CLS filters are amazing but I can't fit their cost in my development plan. Thus, I narrowed to the following three and would like to know what the people think about. 1) TS Optics 2" CLS filter https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p4686_TS-Optics-2--CLS-Breitband-Nebelfilter-fuer-Beobachtung-und-Foto.html At only 55 euro is very actractive. The curve provided at the link is the filter density so it may still benefit leaving the UV filter under it. This is the one that would cut more light of the three. 2) Hoya red intensifier 52mm. this is a neodymium filter at 42 euro but seems cutting a bit less on the UV than the following, nearly three times more expensive one. 3) Baader neodymium filter 2" https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p511_Baader-Skyglow-Neodymium-2----more-contrast-on-Moon-Planets.html At 112 Euro this is way the most expensive I am wishing to consider. Looking at the transmission curve, the UV wouldn't be needed. If anyone has direct experience with those, I would love hear about it. I am particularly interested in opinions/experience with the TS Optics one. My modest attempts at DSO are here on astrobin https://www.astrobin.com/users/luter68/ Thanks a lot and clear skies!
  7. Hi Dave, you actually helped me quite a lot! the suggestion to use Internet Explorer was a very good one. In fact, the pages that were very slow to load with Mozilla, were much easier to access and I finally found some important info. https://nikonhacker.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2654 were it says that with the menu based option, BYN may not work but it does with the other option. Since I use a D7100 for daylight photos, the D5100 will be dedicated to AP and the permanent true current would be fine. Kind regards and clear skies!
  8. Hi, is there anyone who have/had a software patched D5100 that could help with my question? Thanks!
  9. The problem is that the Nikon hacker web site seems non updated since quite a while and I do not manage accessing the forum pages. So I was trying with google but found nothing so far. Yet, I think I saw some comment once but can't remember where and what the conclusions were..... Thanks anyway.
  10. Hi everybody, I just got a second hand D5100 (with firmware version 1.01) and I want to patch it with the Nikon hacker software patch 1.20.6. For the camera and firmware I have, it gives the possibility of choosing one of the two (either one or the other) options: BETA - True Dark Current BETA - True Dark Current - Menu based I have been trying to find comments/opinions on which one is advised, but with no success. In theory, it should be the same and, in principle, the second should be better as you can activate it at your whish. However, in real use there may be glitches that I would like to know ahead of time. Also, but less important, if someone knows what the differenece between Video 1080 HQ 54mbps Bit-rate and Video 1080 HQ 54mbps Bit-rate NQ old HQ is (that is what NQ stands for), I would be very grateful. Clear skies to all.
  11. Hi, you already got good advice for moon/planets imaging. Get any suiotable webcam (the once famous Philips SPC900NC, as an example, can be found used for very little) and, once you have it, you can get used to Registax or similar free software. All you need is a solid holder for the telescope, and what you have shoulkd work pretty well for you. For DSO, I would say your setup will make it difficult. Nevertheless, you can try to see what exposure time will keep star trailing by field rotation at the minimum. The picture you see here (my first DSO image ever) I took it with a skymax 127, that is even slower than yours. It is a collection of 10 or 20s exposures (can't remember) for a total of 720s taken with a D7100 (the image was rebinned 2x2. Processing was not that great at that time but I never went back to this one). My mount is equatorial but if you keep the object at the centre so you can crop and your mount cover the main field translation, such exposures should be possible and (I am not doing the math but) you should be able to go longer. For fainter DSOs, you will need a focal reducer and that can cost you more than a used DSLR..... One point of value is that data reduction has a huge part in the final image quality and having some material will push you at looking into this aspect and see how much you like it. Learning to use Deep Sky Stacker and a image ediditing software like GIMP (both free) is as important as upgrading your scope and costs you only time, for now (other free software exists, this is only what I use). As other people already said, once you get the fever it becomes very expensive...... About cameras, being all valid what the people says about canons, Nikons like the D5100/D7000 are very good. I would not go for a dedicated astro camera (for DSO) for now because of cost. Moreover a DSLR also opens up to wide field photography (a tripod and a short lens) that can also produce stunning result (and more software learning). Have fun and enjoy.
  12. The idea, when using such an arrangement, woiuld be to use the 200 mm for photography and the 130 or 150 for visual. At the moment the camera with the 200mm is mounted at the end of the counterweight bar, but I am not very satisfied with the results. Still not fully understanding where the problem is. Besides that, I find the location unconfortable (the camera is always upside down). would I decide trying photography with a 150 or 130, then I would mount it solo and use an off-axis guide.
  13. Thanks a lot LunaSwift, indeed it is exactly the information I need. I read the manual long ago but I didn't notice it at that time and didn't check it again........ Have a nice evening.
  14. Hello, I am thinking of buying a side-by-side mount like this one https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p223_Starway-VC4-side-by-side-mount-for-two-telescopes---cameras.html to mount two scopes in my Calestron AVX. The idea is to have a small newtonian (130 or 150 pds) on one side and a bar with a camera with a 200 mm lens on the other (currently the camera is attached at the end of the counterweight shat but so far I am not satisfied with what I get as results). Thus, I am looking for different solutions (like the side by side mounting). However, on the mount, when the white marks on the declination axis are aligned (as requested at the start of the two star alignment procedure), the slot on the mounting saddle is aligned along the polar finder direction. Thus, if I use the VC4 at alignment stat the mounted tubes would be pointed at a 90 degree angle. The question is, can I start the two star alignment with the index not aligned (that is, with the slot in the mount turned 90 degrees with respect to the position where the reference marks are aligned) without losing accuracy in the star alignment? Since nights of clear sky are damm rare, I would like to find out if anyone knows about before spending a valuable night testing around (and spending the 129 Euro for the rig). Thanks a lot!
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