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About Luter68

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  1. Hi Steve, just placed the order for the scope and flattener (plua a ZWO OAG). I have add the request for the verification with the flattener. Looking forward to get it here.
  2. Hi, I have found this thread while looking for more details on the Es Reid tests on offer with the Esprit scopes. I have seen the summary description of the procedure on this thread, thank you. I would have a couple of further questions. What is in the test report? Is it a declaration (e.g., comformity to certain reference parameters)? does it include images (e.g., from the Ronchi test or of artificial sources)? Interferometric results? If I buy the scope with the flattener, is there also a test of the telescope with it? Thanks a lot.
  3. Indeed, on the Advanced Camera Services web site, I only see full spectrum conversion. I would prefer to have in a UV-IR cut filter (like the Baader one) to make things easier with other filters (e.g., some CLS filters do not have an IR cut). In the meanwhile, I found the Italian equivalent (perhaps more precisely seems the italian branch) of Teleskop-express (the german one offers modifications for Canons only). They offer modification for the D5100: http://www.teleskop-express.it/servizi-ts-italia/2888-modifica-astronomy-nikon-super-uv-ir-cut-e-brt-astronomy-expert.html
  4. Hi Parallaxerr, I am looking exactly for the same thing, with no success. Also for me, diy is not an option. did you find anything at the end? Anybody in Europe?
  5. Hello, Anybody who tried the TS Optics CLS filter at least?
  6. I have an AVX, but carrying a smaller scope - mak127 plus a ZWO guide scope, that I use for imaging (with a 200mm camera lens mounted at the tip of the counterweight bar. So, my mount could have a easier job than yours. However, it took me nearly one year to manage to reach satisfactory 90s unguided exposures through a night. This is my experience and I hope it may be of help. 1) verify that the knobs locking the axes never touch the motor cases. I actually had this problem with the declination one. I was losing alignment in the middle of the night and did not understood why un
  7. Hi, I am taking images with a Nikon D5100 and a 200 mm f/4 AI lens that I front stop to f/5.4. I also have an Hoya UV(0) filter attached. I have moderate to high LP from my backyard and I would like to add an LP filter to try to improve things. With a 200mm large nebular complexes are my main target but I am not too happy so far. I have a celestron AVX mount and I managed guiding to work, so I am not afraid of long exposures. On the long run I want to move to a mono cooled camera (ASI1600mm being my choice at the moment). With such a sensor format (I wouldn't consider spending more, so l
  8. Hi Dave, you actually helped me quite a lot! the suggestion to use Internet Explorer was a very good one. In fact, the pages that were very slow to load with Mozilla, were much easier to access and I finally found some important info. https://nikonhacker.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2654 were it says that with the menu based option, BYN may not work but it does with the other option. Since I use a D7100 for daylight photos, the D5100 will be dedicated to AP and the permanent true current would be fine. Kind regards and clear skies!
  9. Hi, is there anyone who have/had a software patched D5100 that could help with my question? Thanks!
  10. The problem is that the Nikon hacker web site seems non updated since quite a while and I do not manage accessing the forum pages. So I was trying with google but found nothing so far. Yet, I think I saw some comment once but can't remember where and what the conclusions were..... Thanks anyway.
  11. Hi everybody, I just got a second hand D5100 (with firmware version 1.01) and I want to patch it with the Nikon hacker software patch 1.20.6. For the camera and firmware I have, it gives the possibility of choosing one of the two (either one or the other) options: BETA - True Dark Current BETA - True Dark Current - Menu based I have been trying to find comments/opinions on which one is advised, but with no success. In theory, it should be the same and, in principle, the second should be better as you can activate it at your whish. However, in real use there m
  12. Hi, you already got good advice for moon/planets imaging. Get any suiotable webcam (the once famous Philips SPC900NC, as an example, can be found used for very little) and, once you have it, you can get used to Registax or similar free software. All you need is a solid holder for the telescope, and what you have shoulkd work pretty well for you. For DSO, I would say your setup will make it difficult. Nevertheless, you can try to see what exposure time will keep star trailing by field rotation at the minimum. The picture you see here (my first DSO image ever) I took it with a skymax 1
  13. The idea, when using such an arrangement, woiuld be to use the 200 mm for photography and the 130 or 150 for visual. At the moment the camera with the 200mm is mounted at the end of the counterweight bar, but I am not very satisfied with the results. Still not fully understanding where the problem is. Besides that, I find the location unconfortable (the camera is always upside down). would I decide trying photography with a 150 or 130, then I would mount it solo and use an off-axis guide.
  14. Thanks a lot LunaSwift, indeed it is exactly the information I need. I read the manual long ago but I didn't notice it at that time and didn't check it again........ Have a nice evening.
  15. Hello, I am thinking of buying a side-by-side mount like this one https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p223_Starway-VC4-side-by-side-mount-for-two-telescopes---cameras.html to mount two scopes in my Calestron AVX. The idea is to have a small newtonian (130 or 150 pds) on one side and a bar with a camera with a 200 mm lens on the other (currently the camera is attached at the end of the counterweight shat but so far I am not satisfied with what I get as results). Thus, I am looking for different solutions (like the side by side mounting). However
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