Adam J

No that's just the max current so long as you supply 12volts the device will take the amps it needs.

Not sure about that I will post a equal stretched image later.

All I am quite experianced with Ha / OIII bi-color imaging and thats my normal thing as I dont typically have the time to capture three channels. However, I recently got a 5nm Astrodon SII filter to complete my set as I fancied a go at SHO. This is a comparision between my Ha and SII channels. The HFR reading is comparable between the two channels at just a little over 2 pixels. However the SII stars seem much much brighter and more numerious. I did wonder if this might be an effect of the strong Ha in the nebula partially blocking the stars? But I guess I am also a little worried that my SII channel is bloated for some reason....not that bloating explains the larger number of SII stars visible.. Ha SII I found this example from Sara Wager that seems to show a similar effect? Cheers, Adam

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/celestron-lithium-lifepo4-powertank-pro.html You can buy a cable for it.

It uses a car style connector but not sure what a eqr6 uses. That is way too expensive for that power tank though. There is a 160wh version that normally sells for that cost the one pictured is not much larger capacity than your current one.

In general it will draw about an 1-2 amps to cool the camera. So the camera on its own would deplete a 7ah battery in between 3.5 - 7hours dependent on cooling temperature and ambient. As you are in Spain I personally I think that you will want a bigger battery. Adam

I guess it depends on the reasons you selected the ASI183GT over the ASI1600mm pro in the first place. Personally I would not make the choice based on $100 difference in price. I would make the choice on how you wanted to use the camera. For me the biggest question is not the choice of sensor here but how often you want to change between LRGB and Narrow band imaging and how that balances against the against the advantages of the all in one form factor. There are lots of great reasons to chose the IMX183 especially for high resolution LRGB imaging using a big scope like the one you have. Adam

Some hot pixels are totally normal. Especially if you are using very high gain.

I have seen people get less detail at much longer focal lengths than 550mm, the image scale is 1.4 arc seconds per pixel. In the UK seeing is generally so bad that you might be imaging at a tighter image scale than me but 80% of the time you will not be acheiving any more detail. Adam

ASI1600mm pro.

I would think that gain 120 would be the better option gain 400 is way way too high! Remember gain is not the same as ISO. I would also be going with 5min subs at least at gain 120. Offset 8 is too low try 50 maybe. Also OIII is very weak. Better to frame the nabula in HA first to confirm that you are pointing in the right place and then after that switch to OIII. Sometimes you will only see weaker OIII after stacking and not in single sub frames. Have you plate solved the image to confirm that you are actually pointing at the target? The pelican nabula has a bright star next to it and I dont see it in that image. Adam

In respect to the Esprit 100 on galaxies it depends on your definition of not great....

Possible that it allows you to dither for one.

You dont really want to do this anyway as the tilt from one adaptor is normally problematic with these lenses two connections would give issues.

I purchased an Esprit 100 last year and it was a very very solid smooth rack and pinion focuser which I will never be swapping out. Adam

Yes agree with this. 2x2 will work wonders at 1m focal length for galaxies and smaller objects. Its a great camera so dont send it back if you want wider views its the scope you must change or more likely supplement. Adam

Right so yes that is not going to allow you to image m31 any time soon and with that scope I am thinking that nothing will. On the brght side though its a great setup for smaller objects like small galaxies and planatary nebula. Think M1, M81 ...etc. You could always get another scope further down the line at arounf 250 - 400mm focal length to complement it for wider feild targets. But in essence its not your choice of camera that is the issue here its your choice of scope. Adam

Yes but is it a real mono sensor or a debayered OSC sensor? Because one thing is 100% sure and that's as I am writing this Sony do not list a mono version on their web page.

Also as this the mono version of the IMX571 is not listed by Sony on their own web page....either QHY have pulled a blinder and gotten Sony to make a special version for them or it could be a debayered OSC sensor........just a thought.

If I was a betting man then I would put good money on you also getting an IMX342 based mono APS-C camera from Moravian along side a 4/3 chip most likely IMX540 based. So you could have two different new mono chips on the market at the same time. just a thought. Adam

Personally I would not touch a budget quad with a barge pole. I am sure some will be good but it's easier to get a good copy of a triplet at this price point.

I dont quire unterstand why you would not just crop your image and use the Horizon? The problem with the 183 sensor is that most of the time its oversampled in relation to the Daws limit of the aperture. Its only really fast scopes that do not follow that rule. Adam

Not really a replacement it costs a third more.

If your starting out then go for a scope of around 400mm focal length. As an example the last two clear nights I got nothing with me Esprit 100 and AZEQ6 as the seeing was so bad that it bloated my stars. In the UK that's a common occurrence. That's at 550mm focal length. Imagine the effect at 1000mm.

There is supposed to be a new sony 4/3 mono chip coming soon. I might have waited myself but I respect your choice.