SECSIO

I have just read the manual and you are right,it sets the direction of the tracking. I have tried the astrophotography option using App Mode and it tracks correctly in this way, I will try to update the firmware.

I feel like a complete dummy... thank you for tour reply!

Hi! I received this new mount yesterday in the afternoon and today I am learning to set it up. When I select "Sideral track" mode and N switch, the mount starts tracking correctly (I can check it in live camera view), however, after a whlile it suddenly stops and the mode selector LED stays on. I am powering it up with 6 AA batteries, "App" mode tells me that the voltage is 5,8 V, so I am not sure if that is the problem. If a restart the mount, it behaves in the same way, I hear the engine at the beginning but after 20s it just stops. I thought it wa a payload issue so I removed my scope from the mount with the same result... I have tried to power up the mount with a Celestron Power Bank (5V OUTPUT) but the LED starts blinking so finally I decided to use 6 AA batteries. The mount is balanced correctly so the only thing comes to my mind is a power-up issue... Testing manual control from "App" mode, I have cheked that the engine stops moving after 3 degress of rotation but it let me rotate it in the opposite direction until again after the same number of degress it just stops... I leave some pictures of my mount, scope and powertank. Thank you for your time.

Yes, I selected On-Camera in the mount settings, I will try with other laptop, thank you for your reply

Hi Last night I gave a try for autoguiding for my first time. I used a ZWO ASI 120 MM Mini + Skywatcher Finder Scope 9x50. When I starded PHD2, everything seemed ok, I focused the camera, autoselected a star and finally when I pressed "Auto-guide" button, PHD2 crashed... It happens every time I start autoguiding when PHD2 tries to place the selected start in the center of the drawn pattern in the screen. I think it must be a communication problem whith my mount, I use ST4 communication port of the camera.

Hi everyone! Since I improved my polar align I started to take longer exposure images, however I realized that the wind is other factor to be concerned before imaging... Last night I tried to take some photos of Iris Nebula. Firstly I started with 120s exposure time, not bad, after 2 photos the weather got windy, so I had to reduce the exposure time in a half, 60 seconds, in order to fix the vibrations... I have found out that there are some available solutions, observatory tends for example. I am looking for something easy portable and affordable. My setup is SkyWatcher 10" Black Diamond 254/1000 + EQR6 PRO. I saw this tend but I think its height is not suitable for my reflector. I am opened to other solutions, even homemade projects. Despite of the bad weather, I could take some decent images of Iris nebula to stack ^^

Thank you! ^^

Sorry, I was in a hurry, now I understand what you meant. The focuser is in the top of the picture, here you are other picture from a better angle. On the other hand, I have a GSO laser collimator which I recently collimated, but in this case I think a passive collimation is better to place back my secondary mirror.

My scope is a reflector, so the focused in in the top of the tube. Its relief to know that the second mirror at least looks well faced to the focuser.

Hi everyone! First of all, my scope is a SkyWatcher Black Diamond 254/1000 (3.9f), this information may be helpful. Last night I tried to collimate my scope in the darkness, I usually use a torch, but that time I forgot to bring it, I got confident and despite of collimating the scope I ended unscrewing the main screw of the secondary mirror by scewing too much the collimating screws... Yeah, a complete disaster. I was able to turn the whole secondary mirror with my hands, but I did not have a proper screwdriver to place it again in its correct position. Once I got the correct tools, I could place the secondary mirror in front of the focuser and I screwed it to fix it. I do not know what is the correct way to check if I placed the secondary mirror in the center of the focuser, I attach a picture from the inside of my focuser, I think it is placed correctly but as I said I did not perform any kind of measurment, I just used my eyes looking through the center of the focuser.

Hi I have purchased this useful camera to achieve a better polar alignment. I was reading its documentation and something caught my attention: "6. Three star alignment no longer needed: Once you are polar aligned, you will only need to perform one star alignment - a real time saver." I think this statement is only true if I achieve an almost perfect polar alignment. However, I think that, if you do not care about spending 3-4 more minutes, 3-star and 2-star alignment is always a good choice to make sure that you achieve a good accuracy.

Then star alignment is just a way to correct the error made while polar alignment?

Hi I have always taken photos using my DSLR in prime, 30s exposures. I got a new CCD camera (ZWO ASI 533 MC Pro) and testing it for the first time tonight I noticed that if I want to take advantage of long exposure times, I would need a better calibration. I always use 3 star alignment, I think it is the most accurate for my EQ6R PRO mount. However, reading some posts, an user suggested that before star alignment and after polar allignment you should set Polaris in the center of your scope. I always put my telescope at home position after polar alignment but I never check if Polaris is in the center of the field of view of my telescope. Is this really necessary? Some tips to improve the calibration are welcome too ^^

Perfect, thank you for everything!

I found this information in its documentation: Battery Chemistry: Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Battery Capacity: 158.74 Wh Input: 16V DC, 2000 mA Charge time: 6 hours Output current for telescope: 12V DC @ 5A Output current for car battery port: 12V DC @ 10A Currently, I power up my mount with this car battery cable so I would like to use the 12V DC 10A output for the telescope, and the 12V DC 5A for the camera. I think this configuration might not be a problem for both devices...