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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Hi Here's what I pulled out from the .tif. You've some nice stars emerging.
  2. alacant
    Hi Pis are great, but seem recently to have become €silly. We use these. i5 8Gb +256Gb ssd under Ubuntu. About half the cost of a pi, faster and you can have as many as you wish. Tomorrow. Various badges depending on the supplier. We think the original is Fujitsu. Search ebay or tech site in your country. Easily capable of indi-kstars-ekos and everything else including fits storage, all on the same box and responsive vnc, especially over 5G via a decent wifi adapter. Cheers and HTH
  3. alacant
    Hi I'd go with a decent lens. Start here maybe. The 55mm, 135mm and 200mm versions are good too. If you're good at auctions, you could come away with one of each for around €100. Your mount -has it a ra motor?- should be able to do 30s frames with them: HTH
  4. alacant
    Hi If you're seeing colours of any sort, then the image has already been processed, Probably by the software upon which it is being displayed. An image which has not been debayered displays a monochrome grid pattern. Post -a link to- your raw file if you like. Cheers
  5. alacant
    GSO made the whole thing. If you want to eliminate tilt, you simply have to pull it apart and fit proper springs and mirror supports. Lateral mirror movement and sagging on the inadequate springs makes the collimation change as the tube angle changes. The collimation is only correct at the angle at which you collimate it. The tube also needs supporting. Pragmatism led us to this. Cheers and HTH
  6. alacant
    Assuming I have 'Run 1', not here it doesn't: I think maybe the frames you posted had already been processed. Cheers
  7. alacant
    The flat frames are (way) over done. You're around 30000. Even un-stretched you can see detail therein. On a 600d, aim for a value of no more than 2000. On an eos, Av will give you a good approximation to this; aim for an exposure of at least 2s. For reference, I've included a flat frame from one of our 700ds with the exposure determined via Av. HTH
  8. alacant
    Oh dear. If you like, share three ORIGINAL of each: light frames, flat frames. Then we'll be able to see what's wrong.
  9. alacant
    Hi Flex. This is when the guide telescope is moving relative to the 127 as the assembly changes angle. This is because you have it mounted on the flimsy finder shoe. Instead, put the asair in the finder shoe and mount the guide telescope properly to the handle. Here is an example of how rigid the assembly needs to be. This rigidity is needed even over just 420mm focal length. At 1 metre, it becomes even more imperative. The OAG will of course do it, but represents more expense and more work to have to do. Cheers and HTH
  10. alacant
    Load the flat sequence pre-process with a bias of 2048 Stack You now have a correctly calibrated flat. HTH
  11. alacant
    Hi You haven't pre-processed the flat frames before stacking. HTH
  12. alacant
    Hi 600d, so no dark frames of any description. Instead simply use a master bias or even easier -and just as effective - subtract a constant bias value per pixel. For the 600d, 2048. Don't forget to stack using a modern clipping algorithm -available in Siril- and take more frames of longer exposure. +1 for the suggestions to dither. Cheers and HTH
  13. alacant
    Hi How is the guide telescope mounted? Could you post a photo? It looks as though it is moving relative to the main telescope as the tube angle changes. I think the English term is 'differential flex' OWTTE. Before you begin any software analysis and after you have secured the guide telescope, it is essential to make certain the mount mechanics are as perfect as possible. This means dismantling, cleaning, re-greasing and adjusting, even -especially some would say- new new mounts as described here. Guiding a ~1000mm refractor with a small guide telescope on a low end mount, everything must be perfect. Cheers and HTH.
  14. alacant
    Hi That should do it. Not sure of the best ISO on the 3300, 100 maybe? Anyway, start bracketing exposures at either side of 1/500s. You're up against atmosphere wobble, so take several at each shutter speed. With a bit of luck, you'll get one which you'll be able to pass to hard, especially on -very forgiving- canvas. Good luck and HTH **EDIT: ISO. Our Nikon expert refers me to this. So ISO800. So start bracketing around 1/1000s perhaps?
  15. alacant
    Hi I can't see what telescopes you have, but to fill APS-c (with a little wiggle factor along the narrow edges) with the moon, you need something around 1000mm focal length.
  16. alacant
    Hi everyone We had a slew [1] of small carry-on-baggage refractors this weekend and an interesting discussion on the current trend of obliterating stars in images. To redress the balance, and with no narrow band glass anywhere near, here is our contribution to the campaign for real stars. Cheers, thanks for looking and do post your starry images. 700d on sw 72ed [1] Where it would need a whole sentence in Spanish, my boss uses the English term if he's heard it said sufficiently elsewhere. For example 'el slewing', 'el focusing' and his current favourite, 'el marketing'. Hence my claim of 'slew' as collective noun for 'small carry on baggage refractors'. If he can, so can I.
  17. alacant
    Hi That's what we normally do if it's a dedicated fixture. This is my first experience of a domestic installation where humans take priority over telescopes. I next have to work out where I can plug the adapter and the Ethernet cable at the house end so it's invisible. What a struggle!
  18. alacant
    Ok. Getting there. I still need WiFi from the main router to the vnc client, both of which will be in the same room. Do I retain this?
  19. alacant
    Perfect. Thanks. That looks like it. Presumably I need in addition to the two adapters, two ethernet cables. One for the router and one for the telescope NUC? Un saludo
  20. alacant
    There is grid (?) electricity -as in you can plug stuff in like a fan or a computer- at the telescope, but it's too complicated as I think mains adapters need to be on the same circuit. The wiring seems to indicate several individual circuits. Dunno. This is way beyond providing astro!
  21. alacant
    Thanks so much everyone. Oh, how I hate home wifi! Unfortunately, as per the original post, the only thing I can change is the interim box. @Elp do you know if your netgear alternative will be any better than the existing box? The latter is a mi-home. Cheers and clear skies.
  22. alacant
    I'm just looking for something to replace the black box. The white box is 600/600 fibra óptica. Cheers
  23. alacant
    Hi everyone I'm trying to get a home wifi (not designed for heavy traffic) so that a disabled guy can vnc into his computer at the mount. It's working fine, but it's slow. I've traced to weak point to the interim wifi extender; vnc with the two computers in the same room -without the extender- is instantaneous. This must be doable without having to plug or switch anything and without cables. The telescope end is taken care of. The total distance which needs to be covered is 50m. Question: home lan experts, what would you recommend as the middle wifi-extender thing? Cost: not that important but if you could give a top of the range and an affordable model, that would give me something to go on. TIA
  24. alacant
    Hi and welcome By far the best way to get started is to go along to an astronomy club meeting and see your proposed equipment setup and working. Between them, the members will be able to put together anything you had in mind, and more. Only when you've seen it can you really decide. Cheers and HTH
  25. alacant
    Exactly that. On the vx -and most other modern Newtonians- the secondary is fixed such that when the holder is centred and the telescope is collimated, the offset ensures as evenly illuminated field as possible. Be sure to read Telia's collimation myths and Seronik's no nonsense guide, both of whom tell it just as it is; simple. HTH
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