Alan64

As I've understood, the planets have not been in a favourable position in sky for those dwelling along the upper latitudes of the northern hemisphere. They're high enough for decent viewing here, as I live at the same latitude as that of Casablanca in Morocco, a bit below Spain. The atmosphere is thickest at the horizon, and thinnest at the zenith(straight up). The seeing gets progressively better as you go up higher from the horizon. Trying to observe at or near the horizon is like trying to look through a glass jar of chicken broth, or a thicker soup even. Placing a 3x-barlow in first will transform it into about a 4.5x, if I'm not mistaken. Placing a 2x-barlow in first approximates a 3x... I would think it allright for the 20mm, but definitely not the 4mm. Then, you have me wondering about collimation. Yes, refractors can use a bit of that, particularly those less-costly. Does your draw-tube, seen there with a somewhat matte-silver finish, rack in and out straight and true, firmly yet easily; or does it exhibit slop, looseness, wobbling? That's an aperture-stop built into the dew-cap. It looks to be either 30mm or 40mm in diameter, therefore an effective 30mm f/23 or a 40mm f/18 achromat is made manifest. Such modes will exhibit no false-colour whilst observing the brighter objects. It can be useful for the Moon, if too bright. It may also be used to observe the Sun, during the day, but only with a safe solar-filter placed securely over the front of the refractor's objective; for example... https://www.celestron.com/products/eclipsmart-solar-filter-for-70mm-refractor However, I would not introduce that aspect to your child until they're much older. It's an adult-age endeavour, rather. Besides, a filter using Baader Planetarium solar-film is a better option... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/baader-astrosolar-safety-film-nd-50.html You may make your own, and with the dew-cap you have now. But it must be safe and secure. You don't want a wind blowing the cap off whilst observing, nor to simply fall off. You can shim the cap, and for a much tighter fitting. Note the Celestron solar-filter is the same cap, but with screws to secure it in place. The cap must be tested before each and every observance.

Thank heavens you got the "Powerseeker" version. I have the "Astromaster" 70mm, and with its proprietary, wonky focusser... With these entry-level kits, you generally get a good, a very good telescope, specifically the main lens-assembly, the objective at the front of the telescope... That's where it really counts. Everything else that comes with a beginner's kit tends to fall short, comparatively. But I have the same 4mm eyepiece, that I received with another, "PowerSeeker" kit, and it's actually quite the performer... The 20mm is usable, but there is better, and for modest outlay. I took my "PowerSeeker" 3x-barlow apart, to see what it makes it tick. I found that it contains plastic lenses. Simply chuck that barlow into a drawer, and as a curiosity, at most. Your 70mm f/10 achromat(refractor) has a focal-length of 700mm. A quality 2x-barlow, instead, is suggested for that telescope; that is, if it needs one at all. That would make for an effective 1400mm focal-length. To wit, the 4mm combined with a 2x-barlow will result in a power of 350x, which is actually too high of a power to use with your telescope. Therefore, I would use the 4mm only, and for a power of 175x. The telescope is capable of that, and a little more besides. For satisfying close-up views of the planets, et al, one ideal is to combine a wider-angle 8mm or 9mm eyepiece with a 2x barlow, and for powers of 175x or 156x, respectively. Then, there's the Amici-diagonal that came with your kit. You've got to have a diagonal, a necessary evil it is, and to keep the neck and back from aching and ailing. I have one like yours, too... It's not bad, but it's not intended for use at night; during the day, rather, for birds in trees, ships at sea, et al. What you might want instead is a STAR-diagonal. The term "star" says it all. You can use your Amici-diagonal at night, for years if you'd like. But if you did get a star-diagonal after all of that time, you might wonder why you didn't get it sooner... Clear skies to you and yours!

I must say, that's quite impressive! I don't know exactly, but I suspect that you might not be able to get the full view of your new 20mm with the Amici-diagonal, the diagonal that came with your kit. I have both, the same eyepiece and the same diagonal, here at the house, along with a 70mm refractor similar to your own. But it's cloudy at present, so I can't test them out. I also suspect that you'll notice a difference once you get a star-diagonal. The 20mm with your telescope will give very close to a 2°-wide view(TFOV). When the next full Moon is out, use the 20mm with the Amici-diagonal, and estimate how many full Moons side-by-side that you might fit into the view of the 20mm. The 20mm should be able to fit very near to four full-Moons within its view, and with your telescope; for example... That's the full Moon, duplicated, and courtesy of my 60mm f/15 achromat. If you don't think four will fit, then that will probably be due to the Amici-diagonal vignetting the full view; in making the view narrower in other words.

It's the focal-length of a telescope that determines the range of magnifications by which one observes. That short 70mm achromat of my own, at 300mm, would require the purchase of a 3x-barlow to observe the planets; to see them larger and detailed, albeit still small they would appear. But given the brightness of same, the chromatic-aberration of the 70mm's fast-doublet would soften and even blur the images; not to mention the false-colour seen... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WANNqr-vcx0 I would not need to buy a barlow at all for this 70mm achromat... https://www.highpointscientific.com/meade-polaris-70-mm-german-equatorial-refractor-telescope-216001 It has a longer focal-length, 900mm, at f/13; the longer the better, which makes the planets appear oh so near, yet oh so far away; much more easily, more sharply, and with little to no false-colour to be seen.

So far I've removed the tube's baffle, and shortened the draw-tube's "sleeve" a bit... I've also shortened the draw-tube. This is as far as it will enter into the telescope... I can now see the doublet in toto... The testing of a wide range of eyepieces at focus, including with barlows, enabled me to determine exactly by how much I could shorten the draw-tube. After I complete those aspects, I will then do the usual, and blacken and flock it within an inch of its life. I saw those on eBay, too, but I wanted to ensure that I would not receive one with a .965" focusser, or with a plastic doublet. To wit, the Barska is the "cream of the crop", albeit in so far as it may. As it arrives, it is, effectively, a 30mm f/10 achromat. I did not know this at the time. Thank goodness for Gore's "invention".

I doubt that the nuts on the inside are affixed. With a few of my telescopes, I have to roughen up the surfaces of the nuts and epoxy them into position... ...and for that nicety. You can remove just the housing at the back, since that's where you'll be working, then place a barrier between that part of the tube and the cowling at the front. Sweep it all out when you're done, and in using a tack-cloth in addition. That's how I would go about it. But then, if remove both ends, you can flock the tube, if it's not ribbed, but flat instead. My own is ribbed inside; micro-baffles... I'd prefer flocking however... ...and for that last iota of contrast. A Maksutov is, after all, a reflector, too.

I almost got the Orion(of California) equivalent to the Sky-Watcher, but then I ran across the ES, and for a sweet, sweet price(US$299). It must've been during a promotional period. It came with an alt-azimuth mount even, to get it up off of the ground, at most... I use the mount with my smaller telescopes, but only after I took the mount-head apart and renovated it. I haven't used the telescope much at all, not yet. But it's time will come. I had been wanting a Maksutov for a few years. But I was also attracted to the ES/Bresser, besides the price, due to the fact that the effective aperture is indeed a full 127mm, and with a smaller secondary-obstruction to boot. It will be even smaller once I shorten the length of the secondary-mirror's flared baffle. At its present length, it's configured for daytime/terrestrial use, but I want it shortened for use at night rather... The effective apertures of the Orion/Sky-Watcher marques are at 118-120mm. But if you're looking for a telescope packaged with a mount, the Sky-Watcher should serve you well. You can motorise the RA-axis of the equatorial for tracking, for visual-use and taking pictures.

If only I had it before me. Whilst waiting, you can browse over what I had done to my 100mm f/4; same as the "Heritage" 100P, but branded "Zhumell", and with the fixed-primary just as your own... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/341568-zhumell-z100-100mm-f4-newtonian/ You might get something out of it, or perhaps not.

You might, I say you might, be interested in a 6x30 90°... https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-right-angled-magnified-finderscopes.html

Maksutovs, particularly those at f/15, have smaller secondary-obstructions when compared to that of a Schmidt at or near to the same aperture, which results in marginally sharper images... I have an Explore Scientific 127mm f/15 Maksutov, same as the Bresser... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bresser-telescopes/bresser-messier-mc-127-1900-maksutov-cassegrain-ota.html The secondary-obstruction of a 130mm f/10 Schmidt compared to that of my own... That of the Schmidt compared to that of a Synta(Orion, Sky-Watcher, et al) 127mm f/12... That of my own compared to that of the Synta... Among the mirrored designs of telescopes, the Maksutov comes closest to simulating the optical performance of a long-focus refractor, albeit the latter of somewhat lesser aperture. Then, the focal-length of the Bresser 127mm f/15, at 1900mm, is 400mm longer than that of a Synta at 1500mm. But then, the obstruction of the Synta is larger than that of the Bresser; all as shown. Maksutovs are like microscopes, but for that celestial. Then, a telescope, in the first place, is for seeing faraway objects up close.

Yes, that will work just as well. It's also for inserting 1.25" eyepieces and what-not into a .965" diagonal. I have two of those smaller diagonals, and both star-prisms... With all of my star-prism diagonals, I blacken the prisms where needed, the interiors of the housings as well, and all to improve contrast. The prism at left, the diagonal that came with my very first telescope, is apparently the same as that used in binoculars, or porro-prism, erect-image units. I think the factory included that one in a bind, in a pinch. The one on the right came with a 50mm f/12 achromat, being a dedicated diagonal-prism, and a treasure.

Hello John, I hit the jackpot on that Parks. I almost got the GSO, not, and with the stepped nose-piece, a stand-off... But, luckily, I came across the Parks. The Antares hybrid is also available here... https://optcorp.com/products/ae-msdh-965inch-to-1-25inch-hybrid-mirror-diagonal?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqH7BRDdARIsACTSAdthIEeR3SoyeIEXk3cBrJ2L9acI_aPq4MzEYv7qsqY_b5IwXYmneWEaArCrEALw_wcB Cheers, Alan

It's interesting that you should mention that. I have one... I know that there are some who were blinded with one of those, particularly here in the U.S. The glass would crack from the heat, allowing the full intensity of the Sun's light through. It takes only a split-second. To this day I am uncertain as to whether they were included unwittingly, or wittingly.

1.25" eyepieces can be used with a .965" visual back, and with this hybrid-diagonal... https://www.stjarnhusetonline.se/prod/hybrid star diagonal/24.5mm.html ...albeit shipped from Sweden. I have this hybrid star-prism, and new-old stock from an eminent yet defunct optical company in the U.S....

Then what you need is what I use: a variable-polariser... https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/antares-variable-polarising-filter-125.html You can adjust and fine-tune the filter, from 2% to 40%, and dim the planet down to where the features and natural colours are then revealed. During a brief time when the atmosphere steadied, I saw the festoons and whorls, sharply, within Jupiter's equatorial bands, and with my own variable-polariser in place; at about 180x. You have to be patient whilst observing. You can take your eye away for just a few seconds, and you'll miss that glorious sight.

Does Jupiter appear as this through your telescope... That through my own 150mm f/5 Newtonian, and at a low-to-medium power; but even at the higher powers, nigh to the highest of which the aperture is capable, Jupiter still appears as a white orb, washed-out, and devoid of detail.

You might find a smaller camera less cumbersome. I use these smaller ones myself... In any event, it's best that the camera has a manual shutter, a low pixel-density for less noise, and capable of higher ISO settings.

Ah, you live in a suburb of Lisbon. Every little bit helps. Photos may certainly be taken, and enjoyed; posting them for family and friends to see on social-media, perhaps in getting them interested in astronomy as well, then acquiring a telescope of their own as a result. I take afocal-shots now and again through my telescope, with a small point-and-shoot camera, of even one or two objects that are a bit dim... But that's how my eyes and mind see them, too; no timed-exposures there. The camera of a "smartphone" can be used as well. It is more difficult to take instantaneous shots of the planets at high power, but not impossible... A virtual-sketch of Polaris even, from memory shortly after I returned indoors... I take photographs and make sketches like those to show others what might be seen through this telescope and that.

Lisbon is, perhaps, lit up like a Christmas tree at night. Many do opt to image instead with their telescopes as a result. The larger aperture of the 8" Newtonian-Dobson may allow you to see more under such. There are DIY tricks of the trade whereby you can improve the observing experience... http://washedoutastronomy.com/washedoutastronomy.com/index/index.html Albeit, it's not all roses and wine, but still. To block out the lights surrounding you, an old-timey photographer's drape may be employed... You place it over the head; same principle as that shown. Of course, there is that nagging thought in the back of the mind of being bonked on the head by those criminal and nefarious, and whilst deploying. Are you wanting to see the glories of the night sky with your eyes and mind only, or relegate the experience to an automated, electronic "eyeball"?

The telescope will also be good for low-power, wide-field views of the dimmer, deep-sky objects; if you get a star-diagonal for it in future. The Moon may look alright through it, too; but for the planets, not as well as they would otherwise. Enjoy, and best of luck. Oh, by the by, I have this 70mm f/4.3 achromat... It's even shorter. I plan on making a finder-scope out of it for my Maksutov. It's going to need it.

The ones for Newtonians are hard to come by, and are a bit long. You'd have to pull your eye back a bit to look through it and the eyepiece inserted into it. Yes, I had listed the one in my last post that will easily allow for right-side up images... https://www.telescope.com/Orion/Orion-Observer-II-70mm-Altazimuth-Refractor-Telescope/rc/2160/p/117098.uts It's at the same price as the reflector kit. I think you might find it easier to use. It does, however, come with a star-diagonal already, and for that in the night sky, the Moon and all. But, you would need an Amici, erect-image diagonal for right-side up viewing... https://agenaastro.com/meade-928-1-25-45-erect-image-diagonal-prism.html ...and with free shipping. The Orion version, and just like it, would be twice as much with their shipping fee. This Meade 70mm refractor kit, just like the Orion, comes with an Amici, erect-image diagonal already... https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1061429-REG/meade_209003_infinity_70mm_altazimuth_refractor.html You can use the diagonal that comes with the kit for both night and day, but it is angled at 90° instead of 45°, and for objects higher up, day and night. Later, you can get a star-diagonal for the brighter planets; Mars for example during this time. A star-diagonal allows for wider views, particularly at the lower powers... The Amici, erect-image diagonal within that image is angled at 90° as well, just like the one that comes with the Meade refractor kit. Note the sizes of the ports through which light travels. Most all Amici, erect-image diagonals have smaller ports. Here's a 45° Amici, erect-image diagonal compared to a star-diagonal... The 45° angle makes it more comfortable when viewing objects closer to the ground; from the ground to about halfway up the sky. When you're ready for a better star-diagonal, and for that celestial... https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/201981-REG/Celestron_94115_A_Star_Diagonal_1_25.html That's my own Celestron star-prism diagonal within those images. You can use it during the day or night for terrestrial objects. They won't be upside down, but they'll be reversed laterally, like a mirrored-image.

This kit... https://www.telescope.com/Orion-SpaceProbe-II-76mm-Altazimuth-Reflector-Telescope/p/117100.uts I must say, that's not a bad choice, not at all, and for a first time. Yesterday, I was looking at the Celestron version, but it's been discontinued. What a coincidence. That one will simulate the performance of a longer-focus 60mm, or perhaps even a 70mm refractor(achromat), like this one... https://www.telescope.com/Orion/Orion-Observer-II-70mm-Altazimuth-Refractor-Telescope/rc/2160/p/117098.uts In addition, that pesky secondary-mirror should be small enough so as not to muck things up. I have this larger sibling to that one, a 114mm f/8... You can see how small the obstruction is, which results in sharper and more contrasty images. The single stalk supporting the mirror is also less intrusive. Again, the views are upside-down through Newtonians(reflectors), but when used to observe that celestial it doesn't matter. Enjoy, and best of luck.

Hear hear, so true.

A few decades ago, and long before, Plossls were among if not the very best eyepieces available. They were expensive, too. Plossls can now be made more cheaply, yet are still of very good quality and optical performance. There are more eyepieces, and types, out there than you can shake a stick at. I suppose the next step up from Plossls would be eyepieces that offer a wider view, yet without distortions. Some do not not cost much more than Plossls, but they do not perform well with all telescopes. Take this wide-field eyepiece for example... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2643_GSO-1-25--SuperView-Eyepiece---20mm---68--apparent-field.html I have access to that one within the household, as it belongs to a relation. It will play well with my Maksutov, but not so well with my shorter Newtonians. An 8" Newtonian-Dobson, at f/6, is of a medium focal-ratio. That 20mm would probably work well with it. Plossls, however, will work well with practically all telescopes, but they are not for those who must wear prescription-eyeglasses whilst observing. In those instances, the eyepieces must have longer eye-relief, so as to accommodate the physical thickness and position of the eyeglasses. In order to recommend eyepieces, it's always best to have a telescope already in possession, so that our suggestions might be tailored to that one, and to the user.

Eyepieces come in both 1.25" and 2" barrel-diameters... Nowadays, 1.25" is the standard, and with 2", and even 3", eyepieces available. I have some from decades ago, however, and some newer, that came in the even-smaller, Japanese .965" format... The 32mm Plossl in the background at far left is for comparison. The .965" eyepieces for telescopes were born of those for microscopes. Microscopes back then were regarded as more important, and for reasons obvious, than to go about creating special ones for telescopes. There are actually quite a few eyepieces made for microscopes that may also be used for telescopes. Plossl eyepieces are the minimum in performance eyepieces today, and at 1.25". They represent a great value for the outlay, and the images are quite good; for example... https://www.astroshop.eu/eyepieces/ts-optics-32mm-1-25-super-ploessl-eyepiece/p,12450 When choosing Plossls, keep in mind that those shorter than 9mm have tight eye-relief, to where you almost have to touch the eye-lens of the eyepiece with the eye itself, and in order to see the full view that the eyepiece offers.