blinky

48 minutes ago, Mikyg said:

I like it, especially since moving to N.I.N.A sequencing software too.  I like eqmod too but i just find GS is a nice customisable option and also has gampad control and other nice tweaks like being able to sync observatory location and other settings with cdc. I’m not sure about the sync option that you have with eqmod as i’ve now started using plate solving. What sequencing software do you use?

I use APT and like it, would use nina but had just purchased apt when I found out about nina. Btw, eqmod also has supposed for a gamepad

Just looked up the GS Serve software - do you find any advantages over EQMod?

when you loosened one screw did you tighten the opposite one as well?

My thread here shows before and after star images: 

I had the same issue, sent it back to WO via my retailer - was away for just under 2 weeks and now seems perfect

As far as I know the guide speed should be at least 0.5x not the default in EQMod of 0.1x try increasing that first. How does the mount sound after adjusting, any grinding noise or anything?  Also, I assume you did this to remove backlash, is that all gone now?

To adjust back you need to loosed the grub screw at the rounded end of the worm and then tighten the other grub screw by the same amount.  You might be ok though and its simply just the need to up the guiding speed

Cheers, will give them a wee smearing of grease then, think they have some oil on them already

Take I need to grease these ones then?

Just looking at this again - according to the very well respected Astrobaby site, the bearings are supplied ungreased and the seal should be removed and the bearings greased, im confused again!

http://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6-Supertune/EQ6 Super Tune Guide.php

So will pipp let me load in 3 separate series files one for each colour and it will align the colour channels as well?

Yeah thought I was missing something and there was an auto function in Registax

I stacked in Registax, I have Photoshop and PixInsight as well - just not sure what will automatically align/rotate the colour channels

I have 3 channels, RGB (Also have Ha Im hoping to use as Lum layer) and have stacked them and sharpened etc in Registax.  What next though?  I now have 3 separate TIFF files, how do I align these?

blue.tif green.tif RED.tif

Clouded over here now as well, just as it got dark the clouds rolled in!

As per the title, what’s a decent target now we are in galaxy season and the moons about washing everything out.....

Says made in Italy on the pack...

Cheers guys, leave as then - no reason to suspect its a knockoff or anything, bought from a bearing company in England

Ordered bearing for my eq6 stripdown and regrease. I'm wondering if they are already greased or if I need to remove the dust cover and grease? Looks like there are traces of oil on the packet which would leave me thinking they are oiled- which then leaves me wondering have I to remove the oil and add grease, add grease without removing the oil, or just leave as is....

Totally agree with whats being said on this thread - those caps wont blow due to reverse polarity and it would take a significant over voltage to blow them.  As Strarflyer said, I would be looking for something mechanical, reverse polarity will blow the board and it would not work at all. If its stalling at high speed, I would be looking at the mesh and backing it off ever so slightly.

Yep, I have one, really good, works well nothing negative to say about it really

54 minutes ago, AndyThilo said:

That definitely shouldn’t be and would indicate a short on the board that’s going to ground. All screw holes are always ground points. 

Well that was in the brand new pcb I bought after blowing 2 up!

2 hours ago, AndyThilo said:

Test both pins to a ground (usually the metal surrounding a screw hole). One will be short and show 0 ohms, the other should be open circuit. 

That was the problem I had, the metal surrounding the screw was not and but sitting at 12v

4 minutes ago, MarkAR said:

I think you might have found the culprit, by the looks of the pictures, the circuit board is a bit lumpy looking around it.

As for testing, try simple continuity test between the 4 soldering points on it. Tried a google search for the circuit board diagram but couldn't find anything so no idea what the component is. If you have a Maplins local to you, pop in and see if anyone can help.

If Blinky is right, then reassemble and see if you have continuity between the positive power input (centre jack pin) and the body or the screw.

Maplins!  They closed a few years ago

I blew 2 motherboards, and could not figure out what was happening - basically if anything metal touched the mount, like the outer/ground on my dew band, it blew the board.  After the 2nd one I was determined to find out why...  Im not sure if it was my fault, missing something off when upgrading from non-goto to goto but the screw, in your 2nd lot of photos, the middle photo, that screw, touches the metal of the board when its properly tightened, usually this would be the ground plane of the PCB but for some reason, its sitting at +12v. This meant when everything was connected up, the main chassis of the mount was sitting at +12v as the screw would conduct from the PCB onto the case of the mount.  When anything connected to GND touched the mount, or really the leg of the mount since the mount is painted black, it would short the 12v to ground, blowing the fuse and the PCB!  My solution was to insulate that screw from the PCB with a plastic washer.  I could not see anything blown on the PCB either but without the circuit diagram its pretty hard to figure out the circuit, plus it could be an internal track that blows

Does the above make sense?  Kind of hard to describe!