blinky

Total disaster!  I tried it, the spray foam, sticks to anything but the material the SkyshedPod is made of - it ended up falling out and expanding over the floor of the pod bays.  I suppose if you were very careful and patient, you could build it up in layers, but then I find the foam spray dries up/blocks after a couple of days.  In short, don't bother!

Something has changed in the latest version of Pixinsight ith regards to star registration/stacking - I think it might be the 'Compute PSF Fits', try disabling that.  The only other thing I can suggest is to ask on the Pixinsight forum or save some of the subs to one of those file lockers places and let us have a look and see if we can get it to work.

Below are 2 images, one is a master bias and the other is a superbias created from the master - 250 bias frames captured at offset 60 gain 75 - The superbias does not look right to me but why?

On 29/10/2019 at 21:10, spillage said:

@blinky do you know if they still produce them as I cannot seem to find a working link to aeroquest. I have seen that they were not that much money so might be worth a go.

Don't think so, that was a few years ago and back then I think it was a couple of hundred £

I had an Aeroquest one but could never get it to work, I then read a few weeks ago that certain mounts never worked with it as they were machined so fine and the EQ6 or rather some EQ6 were not up to the task

Hows this version?

16 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

NO you do not need a 'proper' EQMod cable, you just need a USB to serial adaptor, that gives the correct signal voltages.

IF the one linked gives the appropriate voltage signals for your mount, then it will work fine......

I use these, (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-adapt-module-USB-TO-TTL-RS232-Arduino-Cable-6PinMX1F/273990798997?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3fcb1fce95:g:0aEAAOSwv-NWYE0M)  just need to replace the cable or terminate with an RJ45 connector, wired appropriately.

Excellent - do you have a wiring diagram for an EQ6 per chance?

I thought the only electronics was the serial converter

You are the 2nd person to suggest the background is too dark - will go take another look, its always tricky to get the background looking 'right'

This might be exactly what I need - nice short cable and FTDI chipset

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTDI-USB-to-serial-RS232-adapter-converter-1-8m-screened-cable-Gender-changer/122113973956?hash=item1c6e8f5ec4:g:cJMAAOSwxndcWUyn

Would the above allow me to connect to my EQ6 pro bypassing the handset?  I already have a very old connector, but its very bulky and the cables are a bit brittle nowadays - my USB hub is a few 10's of cm from the mount so don't really want to spend £35 for the cable from FLO as it seems to be about 5m!

Cheers!  It is a tricky one to process, Im no doubt going to have another go at this, might even add more L data tonight but will see...

I think this is only about my third go at LRGB - Managed to finally get my guiding sorted the other night as well, the first few subs still had trailing, so I offset the balance and voila! Perfect subs for the rest of the night.  This time I followed the Light Vortex stacking guide, and did drizzle stack, so apologies for the size of the image!  This is 11X5min L and 7X5min each of RGB.  I think I will revisit sometime as I don't think the red channel is properly aligned - as the RGB was not drizzle aligned I could not get Pixinsight to register the RGB data against the L until I rescaled the RGB to the size of the L, thought it would just have done this itself?

Anyway, any comments etc always taken, have I gone to far/not far enough with any of it....

£135 - that's ridiculous for what it is!  Even worse when you consider it should come with the scope....  Anyway, do you use SGPro?  Of you you can select a manual rotator and it will tell you how far to rotate etc by plate solving, a heck of a lot cheaper!

Nah, never did anything, happy that its pretty normal and TBH the least of my worries with the crap weather, guiding and processing!  Love the scope though, got an electronic focuser for it as well which is great

I was in the same boat as yourself, in the end I went for the William Optics and the matching adjustable flattener - you know what you are getting with WO and I was not willing to take the risk

Really misty out there but I adjusted it a little and it seems better, think it still needs a tiny tweak but its certainly in the right direction!

Just now, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Do you have a filter in between flattener and camera. if so you need to add 1/3 of the filter thickness to the 11.4 mm.

Steve

I do - I have the ZWO 7 position filter wheel with LRGB/Ha/O3/S2 filters, so looks like Im correct to expand it a little then

Cheers Steve, it makes it a bit easier to adjust then, otherwise its disassembly, insert Delrin spacer, then reassemble, test and repeat!

Also.... Just to confirm Im not being silly... The WO FLat 73a flattener I have is adjustable, I had it set around the 11.4mm but have just increased it slightly, this is the correct thing to do yeah?  I mean I should not need to leave it at 11.4 and then put in spacers between the camera and the flattener?  Sorry for the silly question!

No, that's just the top left, the centre of the frame is ok - went outside to adjust it and its all misty!  Will take a peek in an hour or so and see if its cleared

That's the one - so this is too close then....

Hi,

I can never find the diagram I want 0 the one that shows if you are too close or far from the correct reducer spacing - maybe one of the mods could pin it once its found?  Anyway, is this image from the top right corner too close or far?

I think CMOS is the way forward - I had a QHY8 and sold it to move to an ASI 1600mono - Have not regretted it one bit

Sounds just what I’m looking for, how do I download/install? Do I need to compile myself?