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About ejp1684

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    Star Forming

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  1. The zero order on my Lowspec3 is very close the the zero mark on the micrometer. Eric.
  2. Or use the zero order reflected from the grating? Eric.
  3. Same here. I've now used a laser to try and align the mirror, waiting for miserable UK skies to clear so I can try it out. Eric.
  4. I'm at the final stages of constructing LOWSPEC3. I've incorporated the Relco holder provided by drjolo on another thread. When the UK weather gives me a break I'll try it out, but so far so good. Eric.
  5. Wow, I'm impressed! Not sure I'd be capable of doing all that even if I had all the 3d files and instructions. I'd be interesting in seeing them, though. Eric.
  6. Ken, could I ask what camera you use for guiding? Thanks, Eric.
  7. Yes, I've printed threads successfully on a Prusa i3 using 0.1mm layers. Eric.
  8. When I view my OVIO disk like this the numbers are mirror images, similar to Paul's comment. Eric.
  9. And to you, Louise! I had this but not quite as emphasised as your example. I did wonder if my grating wasn't exactly vertical in its holder, and it did look as though it was pointing down slightly, so I packed it out at the top with a couple of slivers of paper and it seems better. Probably doesn't matter too much, as only a very small section will be used for calibration. Eric.
  10. With the bulb just in front of the slit the exposure time will be much quicker; mine for the S10 are typically 5secs to 20secs depending on which end of the spectrum I'm using. I'm not very good with electronics so bought this inverter from ebay which plugs into my battery box. I used resistors in series with the S10 bulb (33k from memory which I think gave about 86v) and an inline fuse, and the S10 flickers slightly but remains on as long as power is connected. My 'hole in the lid' of Lowspec works, but not ideal. Would be great to have something like a flip mirror with the bulb fixed inside the case. Is it possible to get an 'adjustable' inverter to provide approx. 86v from a 12v supply? And as Louise said, many thanks for Lowspec, Paul. Eric.
  11. Go to Calibration on the top menu and select 'Show/Hide Calibration Points'. That should toggle the calibration lines on and off. Eric.
  12. Louise, I did a quick check of your result and found the following from the S10 calibration data. I don't quite understand your comment about there being '?'s against most of the lines, I read these values straight from the charts. I find the lower end needs more exposure to get accurate results. Other bulbs may work better for you; I used the S10 because it was there on the shelf at B&Q! Happy calibrating! Eric.
  13. The issues I had with the guiding were to do with the first version of Lowspec where the guide mirror was fixed in position and not easy to adjust. In this latest version the guide mirror is adjustable and I found it easy to get the slit in the centre of the camera. In my setup the slit is not easy to see at night ( I think I need a more sensitive camera), so having the illuminator fitted allows me to quickly check where the slit is, and to set the slit overlay onto it (using PHD2). I'm using the 20 micron slit. Eric.
  14. Finally found out where the S10 info came from. The link to it was 'yimg.com' which means it was one of the now defunct Yahoo groups, now the Astronomical Spectroscopy group at 'groups.io'. I think the BASS project is now there as well. The Astronomical Spectroscopy group is worth joining if you haven't already done so, lots of useful info and great advice when you need it. But I've attached the pdf file anyway. Eric. SpectraPhilipsS10Starter.pdf
  15. I'll see if I can locate the web address for the info, if not I can attach the files I have. Eric.
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