Stub Mandrel

The best thing about a 9x50 finder is discovering how much you can see through one!

I have ASCOM drivers installed, then use EQMOD for mount control, Cartes du Ciel for targeting and PHD2 for guiding.

As the stripes are every eight column I suspect you have killed a data line OR got a dodgy connection on one of the ribbon connectors.

When i was a sea scout we used to polish/coat the fibreglass (polyester IIRC) canoes with a UV resistant compound once a year.

Thermally. Any insulation you can add makes a difference, a bare spot of copper can lead to failure, it seems. I saw the black colour, looks a good idea.

No problem, I think the lessons I've learned are: DSLR narrowband isn't easy, you need (fairly) long exposures which generally means guiding. Processing requires a fair bit of learning, and it's worth investing in good noise removal and contrast enhancing software, like Astra Image. The dual band filter doesn't suppress stars as much as a Ha filter and gives them unnatural colours. Most objects have much more Ha than OIII signal and I think a lot of data collection will be needed to get the OIII signal up out of the noise background. With narrowband filters, Ha is feasible for DSLR, OIII is more challenging and SII is likely to be difficult.

I had one nasty failure - the heater cartridge came loose, at height the increased wire tension led to it falling out. I discovered a VERY hot cartridge stirring a lump of semi-molten PLA.

Google 'Tumble Drier Fire UK'... should keep you entertained for a few days!

I use a modified & cooled 450D. All the following really need at least twice as much data. You need to be quite brutal with the stretching, especially with Ha. This is Baader 7nm Ha, just using the red channel: These are my tests with the Optolong Triple band (it lets OII, Hb and Ha through), although it has two 'peaks'. The elongated stars are caused by accidental tilt. Worked well on the veil, lots of OIII, shame about my targeting: Heart didn't show much if any OIII with it: Fake hubble palette using the optolong:

Prusa is an open source design.

Very slight. I can't tell from the picture, but make sure your cold finger is insulated everywhere!

Torque wrench 🙂

Yes, and if I'm doing 8-hour prints it means I'm not likely to hibernate the PC by accident...

I always stick my STL files on an SD card. Fewer cables the better.

If you haven't adjusted the stops yet, it can plunge various bits into other bits. Setup instructions should let you get the stops set right and then you can home the head with impunity.

A striking difference between the bars was in their stiffness. Bar 3 was much more flexible, presumably this was because of the direction of the fill being along the length of the bar, whereas in the other bars the fill effectively divided it into many short compact cells rather than a few long ones. Increasing the density of fill from 20% to 50%, fig. 5.35, both stiffened the bar and resulted in a significant increase in strength. Thread Strength Very simple tests were performed to see how strong screw threads are. Test pieces were printed with close fitting threads in them, using 40% fill, a reasonable amount to use for structural parts. The threads were not ‘tidied up’ in any way and were tight but it was not difficult to insert the screw, fig. 5.36. Ordinary cap screws were fitted and given a total of ten turns – the head of the screw was NOT tightened up against the test block. The pull-out strength of the screw was them tested using the same spring balance as for the fracture tests, this limited the maximum force to 35kgf (75lbf). The test was then repeated with the screw wound out to five turns of engagement. Table 5.3 – Thread Strength Thread Material Engagement Force Result M6 PLA 10 threads 35kgf No effect M6 PLA 5 threads 35kgf No effect M5 PLA 10 threads 35kgf No effect M5 PLA 5 threads 35kgf No effect M4 PLA 10 threads 35kgf No effect M4 PLA 5 threads 30 kgf Surrounding bulk of print failed M3 ABS 6 threads 25kgf Plug of material broke out around thread M6 PLA 8 threads 240kgf Gradual failure of surrounding material The M6 test was done with a lever giving 10:1 advantage, 240Kgf is nearly a quarter of a ton...

I did some similar tests on 1x10mm bars. The setup for a test Please bear in mind that these were all based on single samples, except test 1 which was done twice, giving similar results. Tests 1 to 3 were performed PLA test bars, printed with 0.2mm layers, a shell thickness of 0.8mm (using a 0.4mm nozzle), a top/bottom thickness of 0.56mm and a fill density of 20%. Test 4 used a bar with 40% fill. Table 5.2 - Test Results Bar Fill Direction of layers Direction Force Applied Force to flex ~3mm Force at failure Type of failure 1 20% Along length of bar Normal to layers 3kgf 11kgf Brittle 2 20% Along length of bar Sideways to layers 4kgf 10kgf Brittle 3 20% Across bar Sideways to layers 3kgf 10kgf Brittle 4 50% Along length of bar Sideways to layers 7kgf 21kgf Brittle

Absolutely right, I printed a guitar effects box with the lid hinged on two M3 screws. It happily takes my full 13 stones standing on it.

OK, I've found a new licence text in an email on my laptop. For some reason Outlook seems to have blocked it on my desktop. Working now!

How do I let Sharpcap know I've renewed? Just setting up and it tells me licence expired but I renewed on 12 September.

I think I will make a PLA flower pot. That shoudl be the best possible test of how long it can survive in adverse conditions. I would have NO worries about its lifetime if allowed to dry if it gets wet and away from constant exposure to sunlight.

Let me know if you change your mind, thanks.

What's the ID of those? If it suits and your really don't actually want them, I may be able to use them!

Maybe because I use low print speeds?