Stub Mandrel

Wouldn't an electric motor be a little more compact?

Awesome print

From 2015 years ago, so when I was still starting out... bottom half of Orion with my Zeiss sonnar 135mm: And a very poor whole Orion, a jpg too, but I swear there's some sign of Barnard's loop.

I'm printing the last bit of my cooled mono cam. I thought about what I'm doing and how easy it's been with a 3D printer and I'm tickled pink. This would have been a major undertaking without the printer and despite being printed from plastic, accuracy is assured as the sensor mounting points and camera adaptor mount are concentric and parallel by design and nothing else is critical. Can't wait to use it!

It's not always 'very bad' at bottom right. Top left is the 'best image' - sometimes AS3! can assign high quality to really bad images which have strong artefacts, using PIPP to get rid of the 5% worst images can help eliminate these. Bottom right is the 'worst' image. But if all the images are 'good' the graph will still drop to zero at bottom right. As an example I took 50 stills of the moon the other evening with a dslr on my scope. At 1/400 (2.5ms and through a Ha filter) the subs were virtually indistinguishable and any of them would have been usable but AS3! still ordered them and graped from top left to bottom right. This is why you shoudl always use the slider to check what the graph is telling you. usually you will see poor subs at one end and better at the other with a 'break' in the curve that helsp you find where the quality changes. This can be a very obvious step if cloud comes in! This is that moon, 100% of frames stacked:

It shows where the image being previewed is in the quality ranks.

You luck b***r. My first job was hacking down rhododendrons at Ynys-Hir. I bet tehy are still there...

Well I tell you 🙂 - (1) look at the quality graph in Autostakkert, there's often an obvious cutoff point. (2) use the slider and see where the sub quality starts to decay. (3) stack different percentages. If you get an improvement, try going a bit furtehr in that direction, if it gets worse head the other way. As you increase the number of subs noise decreases but at a critical point the image starts to 'soften' as you add in poorer subs, it can take several runs to find the sweet spot and its not always teh same. I don't think I've ever gone below 5%, with too few subs, however good they are, there's too much noise.

Actually an L-Enhance (tri-band DSLR) filter not another Ha despite what it says in the photo!

Try one of these, actually I only paid £7 for it! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18Pcs-Lens-Filter-Ring-Adapter-Step-Up-Down-37-82mm-For-Nikon-Canon-Camera/372681098810?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I have no idea what the cutter picture means....

I had a set of about 17 step up and step down adaptor rings, about £12 off eBay. I should now be able to fit a lost anything to anything.

My 130P-DS inages from last night are here:

Borth! Must be great for astro, I used to live in Talybont, a lifetime ago...

Unboxing... * I should be grateful; I urgently needed a 10A fuse so ordering yesterday afternoon and getting delivery before 8:00am is impressive. All for £1.62. But perhaps this would have been better sent in a small padded envelope? (Still not as impressive as Farnell, they once sent me a single microchip, about 15mm square, in pair of plastic waffles about 30x20cm, inside bubble wrap, inside a box, inside more wrap, inside an outer box about 60cm square - but I suspect this was someone in despatch who was a bit bored!)

I received a large small pile of electronics components - resistors and voltage pump IC.

I did wonder whether it would be cheaper to use strimmer filament in a 3D printer or vice versa! 🙂

Very nice - great dynamic range in the first image, great detail in the second and lovely to see a great drawing as well!

While white may reflect some UV, black pigment is more likely to stop it penetrating, limiting the depth to which the plastic can be degraded. https://www.directplastics.co.uk/about_plastics/post/how-uv-affects-engineering-plastics

A new tent! I don't suppose the clear sky is going to last for two week 😞

Even if it gets warm, it's only going to deform if you exceed its elastic limit.

In teh central Atlantic there's an island 27 square miles in area, composed entirely of old telephone handsets and magnifying glass handles.

My meteor detecting yagi is held together with black PLA parts, hard to imagine anything more exposed to sun light and weather in this area. Previous weather station parts up on top of the same aluminium pole gradually degaraded so i'm not expecting it to last forever, but after 12 months out I inspected it and couldnt see any signs of degradation, it's been up longer than that now.

? I have PLA parts doing their jobs in the real world. I even found one part that was more reliable printed in PLA than PETG because of the requirements on it and the difficulty of printing consistently in PETG. And yes, I have done experiments such as pull-out tests for things like metric fixings into PLA prints and comparing the strengths of test pieces printed with different orientations. All materials have their limitations, understand these, choose an appropriate material and design well and your parts will cope with the real world.