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About AlistairW

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    Star Forming
  • Birthday 23/02/74

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    Chromatic Free Base Accordion, Chess, Astronomy, Boxing.
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  1. Hello, My current WO focuser has 80mm of travel, but I am thinking of replacing it with a Moonlite. Their longest travel is 2.75 inches. Would that be an ok match ? Also as I image and will be attaching an autofocuser I can't really see me needing the dual speed. Thanks Alistair
  2. Hello, I took the following sub tonight, but I am getting egg shaped stars on the top half of the frame. I passed it through CCD inspector and got the following : Min FWHM 1.72" Max FWHM 4.20" Tilt in X +0.0" Tilt in Y: -2.4" Total Tilt 127% @ 90 Collimation 28! Stars Used 2996 Is this classical sag in the draw tube. I am not sure what to try next to correct his. Focuser tension ? - The Tilt in Y seems very large. Thanks Alistair
  3. Hello, I was looking at the link below, but now I am confused as to what part of my scope is 'the focuser'. Looking at picture 1 below, I would have assumed it was the bit up to the main red ring section. But here it look that the focuser was unscrewed from the OTA body. So is this correct if I wanted to install a new focuser, or is this specific to what this chap was doing ? Thanks Alistair
  4. Hello, Currently I have a Lakeside focuser on my WOGT81 refractor. However, I am thinking of adding a Steeltrack focuser. My question is quite specific - the bracket that 'currently' attaches my Lakeside to the 'WO focuser - will that fit the Steeltrack ? I may even get a Moonlight so same question, or will I need a new bracket made - if so where ? Thanks Alistair
  5. Hello, I expect I have Tilt (or is it drawtube sag?). I was looking at a sub last night and the stars in the upper half of the sub all appeared to be radiating away from the centre of the frame, but the bottom half of the frame was fine. Is there any easy way to overcome tilt that people have tried. My issue is that I only have 9mm of extension tube between my filter wheel where FF/FR. Therefore to put a tilt adjuster in, I think, would not fit. Most of the adjuster I have seen have a backfocus of 11mm, so by adding one of this would overshoot the chip to lens distance. (Wondering is there were any other ideas apart from by a Feathertouch ) Thanks Alistair
  6. Hello, So I have been in to this 'addiction' of astro-imaging for about 2 years, and I have always had the question in the back of my head about how to approach dark sites. I live in a village\town called Midsomer Norton, and the light pollution isn't terrible, but certainly not great, - and I have obstructions to the N,E,S,W - due to living on a housing development. I have built a pier in my yard and done ok with narrowband imaging. But I keep thinking how do I do all this at a dark site. I actually live about 15 minutes drive from the highest point on the Mendip hills, and I have found a little carpark in the middle of absolutely nowhere - but it is very dark. Also apart from this excellent forum I have been pretty much solo in my learning and attempts at imagining, so I have not actively attended any clubs, but tended you ask you good folk for help. So, how do I approach this - do I just put all my gear in my car, drive to my spot on the Mendips and set up for the night ? or is this what people do ? Then what do you do when you have 5 hours of imaging happening, - you can't turn on a light or possibly even sit in your car. Or there is the camping route, but most sites require you to stay more than one evening, and I don't think it would be legal for me to pitch a tent on any old farmers land. I have to remember I do work during the week too, so I am usually at the mercy of the weather being good at the weekend if I want to get mobile. At home this is a different matter, as I have automated, as best I can (without having an Obsy), the imaging process. So, it seems silly of me not to use the Mendips, but sitting in a dark spot for 5 hours (say) on my own (and no mobile signal) seems lonely if not foolhardy or even dangerous. Any thoughts ... (I guess this equally applies to Observers too ) Alistair
  7. I've made a similar mistake with the HEQ5, - wrong polarity in my case. Mount would not move but controller was fine. Ordered a replacement board from FLO, and it was fairly easy to fit in the HEQ5. Alistair
  8. Hello, I happen to own a peltier cooled DSLR. Not used it much since moving to CCD mono. But I am thinking of giving it a run on some clusters. Anyway I digress from my question. The design is such that the cooling device is on the side of the camera, and as such the weight balance is offset. I could buy a L bracket and load it up with small lead weights on the opposing side so that once mounted on the scope\ it would be more balanced. But to me it feels like adding more weigh for the focuser tube to handle. Anyone else faced this problem ? Thanks Alistair
  9. Hello, Can anyone explain how i go about running a PC headless. I am thinking about a small Minix PC to put on my mount and run teamview. But how do you go about setting it up as headless in Windows 10 thanks Alistait
  10. Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question but ...., If i were to get something like the Minix then i guess I connect a monitor and keyboard- then i set up SGP and Teamviewer so that I can remote. Then I simply disconnect the monitor and keyboard and i should be able to boot the Minix - ( i guess with no password ). So eventually i want all my telescope control software on my mount, with no keyboard or monitor ( think it is termed headless ) and to be able to simply switch on and then connect via the indoors pc via teamviewer. Is this possible ?
  11. AKB - was windows 10 preinstalled ?
  12. I imagine some people must have mounted these nano pc to their pier/mount. I am thinking of doing the same but not sure what to look for. Ideally I don't want barebones - i would like Windows 10, around 32 storage, 2 USB 2. And be able to run SGP/PHD. I would control indoors via teamviewer. What are the options out there - cheaper the better. Thanks Alistair
  13. Iapa - it's just one of those things. I have both linear and switching. For some reason (not based on physics) I seem to get less issues with my equipment when using linear. My CCD 'seems' to work better (less lines). Some says this is voltage, but linear seems to work for me. Not scientific I know, - maybe it's the high frequency of the switching, but I haven't really a clue.
  14. Actually I think these are switch mode - I was after a linear - will keep looking - thank all :-)
  15. Hello, Looking at this site power supplies : Can someone tell me if they are linear or switching mode supplies ? - I am not sure what "Regulated" means - but judging by their size I am guessing they are linear. Thanks Alistair