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griz11

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griz11 last won the day on December 2 2014

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About griz11

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    Motorsports Photography AstroPhotography Science
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    Granite Shoals Tx USA

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  1. Thanks I'll check those out. Finally finished up the clusters so I'm about to get back on this project for a bit. Where is Staffordshire I can't seem to remember is it close to London? I lived in Reading and on 3 bases when I was a kid. Brize Mildenhall and Lakenheath. My mom's side of the family is from Swindon. Building the clusters has been awesome. Forgot how much fun it is to hack on this stuff. My unix admin skills are soooo rusty but they are coming back fairly quickly. Seems like every day I remember another useful command. Its all changed too. A lot. I used BSD before but the Tegras r
  2. Just make sure it has real windoze on it and not the rt whatever. It won't run it or anything else compiled for the x86_64 versions. I picked up one and ended up giving to the wife and buying an Asus Transformer. Its worked flawlessly. Has a 500Gig drive in the keyboard in addition to the ssd memory. USB3.0 and its fairly quick. Griz
  3. Yep its a full course on motor control and ASCOM. I'm fooling around with the Indi stuff. I am an old Unix hack so thats what I'd like to use for all my stuff. After thinking about it I'm going to do a module for the focus and one for the mount. Use the Trinket Pro's I bought for the keypad and some more of the Bluetooth modules. Put the SciTech board inside with the controller so there won't be any wires except for the servo cables. I picked up a nice enclosure flanged at the bottom so easy to get on the mount. Has a fitted perfboard for all the sensors etc and deep enough to double deck the
  4. Ascom is an interface to Msoft's com objects. Basically a scripting interface. Check out onstep here http://www.stellarjourney.com/index.php?r=site/equipment_onstep Its a complete mount control system with ASCOM driver. All the source is available so it would be a good place to start if you are going to roll your own. He has an ASCOM driver so you should be able to figure it out reading the code. That should be enough to get you going. Griz
  5. Last night I finally made the wireless link to the touch pad work. Switched over to a pair of bluesmirf bluetooth modems. For what I want to do they are a much better solution. You config them with a terminal program and then they just hook up with each other and provide a serial link whenever they are turned on. No software to write on either side. Switched over from the Arduino to a pcduino for the main computer. The duino is a 1ghz A20 dual core processor with a gig of ram. It has HDMI SATA USB Ethernet and WIFi. Runs linux or android. It has enough horsepower and a floating point unit so I
  6. Its first night outside. William Optics 102GT with Flat6 Borg mini50 guidescope. Haven't gotten to use it much 27 straight days of rain after it arrived Had it out last night but the wind was just too much so I packed up early. Its in the 90's now when the sun sets here so the DSLR is super noisy. Saving up for a CCD and filters. Griz
  7. Thanks thats close to what I want. However I think I have it solved by offsetting the guidescope just a bit to the light side of the tube. Instead of mounting the clamps on the scope rings I put them on the WO rings. The clamps have 2 holes and the WO rings have 5 threaded holes spread across the top. So by moving the clamps around till I was able to get the right offset all is well. Wasn't much but when I put the dual saddle on and it balanced I noticed it wasn't much of an offset. So the weight of the Borg camera and rings was enough. And putting the clamps on the WO clamps allowed me to mou
  8. No place to attach another dovetail it has to be on the side of the scope. There are two M5 threaded holes on the sides of the rings I'm assuming are for weights but just using washers its very difficult to get the right number of washers on each ring so the effect falls somewhere between the rings. I'm using an external battery for the DSLR so the weight is different. The battery plug for the external battery doesn't weigh anything compared to the real battery. But even putting a regular battery back in doesn't fully fix the problem. The camera is just heavy on one side. I can rotate the foc
  9. I've been fussing with a balance issue on my frac. Fixed it with some washers but its still not quite right. I've seen some pictures of fracs with side mounted weights along a threaded shaft. Free to move up and down the tube. I've been trying to find something like that and have had no luck. I can put together the threaded rod right angles and all but don't know where to get the weights. My rings have m5 threaded spots to mount it. Just seems like it would be much easier to move that weight up and down to get perfect balance instead of adding washers to the two rings. I can't get it exactly b
  10. The washers fixed the imbalance. Now its good everywhere. But I'd like to find something that didn't look so diy if I could. The threaded holes are M5 anyone know of some small weights with that for a center bore? Looks like its between 1/2 and 3/4 of a lb. Don't have anything to weigh them accurately. I misread the weight on the WO on their page. I thought it was 11kg not 11lb. So that kind of changes the whole picture with the GM-8 vs G-11. I was thinking I should get the G-11 since I was right at the weight limit of the GM-8/Starlapse. But I'm well within it now so I think I'm going to try
  11. No I'll figure out something else. Too easy to unplug stuff like it is. Might have a board made I hear its not that expensive these days. Decided to buy a used Losmandy G-11. Its just the head no motors or electronics. I have the motors and controllers to do the G-11 and the Starlapse. I'm going to use this software on an Arduino to run the Starlapse http://www.stellarjourney.com/index.php?r=site/software_telescope Pretty complete even has an ascom driver and will work on an android phone. That should be easy pickings to convert over to my handpad. It will be nice to have a mount just to expe
  12. Turns out the WO rings have a tapped hole on the side so you can add a little weight to get the balance perfect. Some washers and a nut and bolt should do it. Which is good because I didn't want to use the dual saddle really. Just more weight and possible misalignment. Mounted on top of the WO the guidescope is pretty close to perfectly in line. Going to go ahead and buy the G-11. Its going to be a bit heavier to move but can always haul it to the yard in the basket of my scooter. I'm hauling 22lbs now and its 35 so I should be able to make it work. The Meade field tripod is around 20 so not m
  13. Yes there is some play in the dec axis. I have not touched either worm yet I wanted to make sure I knew a little more about the mount before I started adjusting on that stuff. I put the side by side saddle back on and now its balanced just right. It needs a tiny bit of offset to make it all work. But I think I'm going to have to change the mount. The wedge is just not handling the weight. I had this weird problem the other night trying to drift align and I've traced it to the two plates on the bottom of the wedge. They have just enough play in the 3 slots to allow it to rotate that it can slip
  14. It seemed heavy on one side so I put the dual saddle back on and was able to get it balanced perfectly. But that put me slightly over on the other axis so another weight is on the way. Having the guide scope out on the outrigger did the trick. The main scope is a little over a quarter of an inch from being in the spot it was before the dual saddle was put on. So I'm thinking a little lead tape on one side of the scope might work to correct the overbalance. Or maybe rotating the focuser 90 deg. Anyways as soon as the clouds go away again I'll try it out. I should have the other weight by then.
  15. I was seeing some really bad guiding the other night. So I started looking for the reason and found out when the scope gets close to vertical the balance goes bad. If 0 is straight up it happens at about 10deg. Not only does the dec balance go away but it messes up the balance on the RA axis as well. Mount starts to oscillate when its guiding. I had something similar on my old SCT that I solved with a little weight shaft that attached near the objective. I just can't see how to solve this balance problem. It would require weights that changed position as the tube changed position. So how do yo
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