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About timwetherell

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    Star Forming

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  1. erect image diagonal

    I have the William optics 1.25" prism and it's lovely terrestrially but on bright stars there is a noticeable diffraction line from the joint in the prisms. I had their 2" version briefly but have to say I was very disappointed to find that the clear aperture was only about 35mm so it was essentially useless with 2" eyepieces which begs the question why even make it? I've never used the Baader 2" but they say it's designed for 2" EPs so presumably it has a full 46mm clear aperture
  2. Eye Astigmatism help?

    One option for astigmatism are the Dipotrix correctors Televue make. It may not be an economical way to go if there's sufficient eye relief to observe with glasses but if you're struggling getting in close enough, may be an option http://www.televue.com/engine/TV3b_page.asp?id=54
  3. Wooden Tripod Plans and Advice

    Looks great!!
  4. Observatory damp proofing floor

    Yup, I did the same, damp proof membrane (thick polythene sheet) below the joists so the condensation forms ground side not on the wood side and again, never had a problem
  5. Wooden Tripod Plans and Advice

    Looking great! As well as being attractive, I've always felt that wood was excellent at damping vibrations. Would it be feasible to have the eyepiece holder rotate so you can have the one you're after either side?
  6. Opening the Trapezium.

    Definitely possible in a 140mm refractor under the right seeing. Triton is the same, seen it lots of times in 8" scopes and on a good night it's right there. on a bad night, it's just not!
  7. Which APO refractor

    TEC are now offering a 10" flourite triplet apo - If you have to ask the price you can't afford it but doesn't sound like you have to ask Seriously though, the TEC 140 is an excellent scope big enough to have some grunt and small enough not to require much grunt to move about. If down the track you will have an observatory (I've just completed mine and it's been a real game changer under UK skies) then presumably you'd like your current purchase to serve as a portable scope once the big one is permanently housed. The 140 would be excellent in that role. http://www.telescopengineering.com/
  8. Interesting article - the supermonos do have a very small eye lens but the easy answer to his question about cleaning them is to simply unscrew the holder inside and drop the cemented triplet out. Clean it and replace it. one piece of glass, one holder cylinder, symetrical design so very safe and easy to do
  9. That sounds about right - a good refractor should handle 80x per inch on the right target.
  10. Yes I agree, the UO HD orthos are 95% the equivalent and substantially easier to use. In fact they're my preferred eyepieces when looking at the moon. I think there's 4,5,6,7 and 9 in the range which would provide a very good planetary set for a medium sized refractor. 30° FoV with no tracking is not easy! and to be brutally honest, the outer few degrees of the supermonos isn't that great so in reality you have a 20° sweet spot in the middle to work with. There was a point when a lot of people were raving about ball lenses for planetary viewing which would be even worse!
  11. Yep, that's exactly my experience too. I have 4,5,6,7,8,9,10mm for planets. For other targets I'm happy with 70% jumps but tweaking the image on planets is a very different matter. Though of course since the planets are now on holiday in Australia for the foreseeable future, it's all somehwat moot
  12. I know just what you mean. I lived in Australia for a time and the south celestial pole is so devoid of bright stars it's actually quite difficult to locate manually! The south has some fantastic objects like eta carinae and 47 Tucanae but I think my favourite hemisphere is the north - possibly because it holds fond memories of observing it as a kid
  13. The ES 3" EPs look pretty cool but for the 30mm EP and 3" diagonal there's not going to be much change out of £1500 and it's gonna weigh quite a bit at the back of the scope which could be an issue for the balance of the mount? My personal experience is that with a 100° eyepiece (like an Ethos) it's difficult to direct your central vision to the edges so whilst the extra 10° around the periphery gives a nice sense of a "window" the stuff there isn't really comfortably observable. In theory my 31mm nagler and 21 Ethos showed about the same amount of sky but I found I preferred to see that sky stretched across 80° than 100° so ended up selling the 21. A 3" focuser may be nice if you're thinking of getting into imaging one day though
  14. Trying to compensate for something

    Interesting thing to contemplate! 266x minimum useful magnification so one would need an 120mm EP. I guess if you have a naval gun breach as an eyepiece holder you can laugh at 2" EPs so the 46mm field stop's right out the window. I saw a Zeiss EP once that was a 100mm fl and about 5" diameter - so supposing FoV is about 60° one would be looking at about 1/3° of space. Not exactly a comet hunter I'll grant you but probably OK for some purposes. I did look through the Lick 36" with a 55mm plossl but it was Jupiter so the narrow field wasn't an issue.