stash_old

38 minutes ago, Rusted said:

And, they won't deign to come back down to earth to explain why it doesn't always work for we "mere mortals."

Sometimes people who don't understand something should just accept that it works. The whole of  Computing, Astronomy,Physics,Quantum Physics etc is complicated thats why only some people understand it - just a fact of life! 🙂

One thing you forget to mention is that ASCOM/INDI is free and "given" to all to use. Perhaps instead of complaining you should help and write a KISS (Keep It Simple Simon) manual for all to better understand ,after all  the hard part,creating ASCOM/INDI, has been done. Writing good KISS manuals is an art in itself 🙂

 I for one admire ,congratulate  and thank those who produced,test,support ASCOM/INDI etc  with all the foibles 🙂 They are not elitist's and I have found them (ASCOM and INDI) to be very friendly and quick to help - even if I dont understand all the say 🙂

People are confusing ASCOM with actual "client software" that does something. ASCOM (and INDI) are protocols which other software uses to talk a common language.

So its correct to say what software uses the ASCOM or INDI protocol( standard ) but they do not "provide" anything on their own. For that you need to look at the Client software to see what "standard" they use. Some software ,e.g. CCDCIEL and APT, now use either or both standards.  CCDCIEL/APT etc are the glue that makes it all work.

Sharpcap ,which is limited to using the ASCOM standard,provides both Platesolving and Polar alignment - both of which are inbuilt in Sharpcap.

No expert but wouldn't adding a large capacitor give the extra spike voltage some where to go ?   After all a switch itself causes a voltage spike doesn't it ,as does plugging in other devices?  As I say i am no way an expert!

As always make another copy of your working SD - that way you can always go back to the base line. SD cards are notorious at having problems (even the newer Samsung etc). For the sake of approx £20 get 2 and then have Grand F,Dad and son backups. Or at least backup your images to a PC by date.

Well a couple of screen prints to show it can produce live stacks - there is so much you can do and I haven't even scratched the surface.

Oh i had the fastest platesolve ever 1.3 secs - wow !  (they are all not that speed 🙂 )

The images (just screen prints) are longer than I normally use for EAA but thats because I am a novice using a "Professional Standard" free piece of  software called ASTAP - I normally use DSS/Asrotoaster.

This thread is about EAA tools NOT "Normal" Astrophotography images 🙂

Have you a link you can share for others who might need the same 🙂

He means one of these https://id.aliexpress.com/item/1889797965.html 

doubt its a genuine FDTI chip just a clone - best test look for unique serial number 

13 hours ago, WanderingEye said:

Yes, but that is a proper EQMOD, cable the difference is you are making yourself.... 😀

And saving £20+ 🙂     3 wires thats all.  

log of ASTAP run on I5 - ASTAP and star database on ordinary hard disk - NOT SSD !

 Creating monochromatic x 4 binning image for solving/star alignment.
15:55:58  69 stars selected and 47 tetrahedrons selected in the image. 58 database stars required for the square search field of 0.4°. Search window at 146% based on the number of tetrahedrons. Step size at 100% of image height
15:55:58  Using star database g17
15:55:58  9 of 9 tetrahedrons selected matching within 0.005 tolerance.  Solution x:=-0.146522*x+ -0.343409*y+ 977.898230,  y:=-0.343627*x+ 0.146433*y+ 640.093331
15:55:58  Solution found: 09:55 33.5    +69d04 31     Solved in 0.5 sec. Offset was 0.000 deg.     Used stars up to magnitude: 16.5

OK this was a very near Platesolve !
 

IMO - ASTAP platesolver has now exceeded both Platesolve2 and ASPS. APT already allows the use of ASTAP platesolving(by a cheecky but quite safe mode) instead of PS2 and to be honest I cant see any reason to use either PS2 or ASPS when ASTAP will do blind or near solving.  The speed of  ASTAP platesolving in far superior IMHO (and others) to either.  I get sub 5secs for near on an old AMD A6 64bit 8gb (only 3 cores) desktop and faster on an Intel I5. Blind depends on how far so cannot really quantify. I use DSLR so my experience is limited to DSLR!

Another plus you dont need to do a Windows Install  (but you can) as there is a straight forward download of the "finished" product which just needs copying - 3 files excluding the G16/G17 star database(depending on which you choose).

You can even use it to stack including "Live Stack" via the full blown Window's Application.

And it runs on Windows,Linux etc etc.

And you can save a lot of disc space - I save 1.5GB using ASTAP(inc index's) as opposed to ASPS/PS2/ANSVR etc depending on your FOV

Give it a try I think you will find it worth it !

Well done Han - sorry I ever doubted you 😞

Be interested if any others have used ASTAP for Platesolving  and there findings?

13 hours ago, fozzybear said:

So correct me if I am wrong terminal then run sudo pcmanfm ? what a pain in the …… also browsing local network a pain as well. that's Debian for you I suppose 

no thats Linux and Unix and everything Apple (cos it use's Linux/Unix at its heart)- all versions (well nearly) - big brother rules LOL

This works on some versions https://www.shellhacks.com/how-to-grant-root-access-user-root-privileges-linux/ and there are other ways 🙂 

BUT you do it accepting all the risks many will moan on about - still F1 is dangerous to many but its allowed because the individual wants to do it ! 🙂  If you(RPI) are NOT connected to the Internet then the risks are minimal IMO. 

If you have the dummy battery and the DC-DC converter is not part of the battery you can use any GOOD DC-DC converter that matches the current requirement (8V 3Amp I beleive !) to bring down 12V to the appropriate voltage.  I used one something like this but  changed over to a large rechargeable battery  which lasts me all night  - 3yrs ago and still going strong (famous last words) !!   Ex-Pro® Canon On-The-Move 7600mAh Rechargeable Battery Power System 

16 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I am pretty good at computers and programming. I've even written and OS and basic interpreter for a home made computer in assembler.

I couldn't make head nor tail of the ASCOM documentation, it's appalling and impenetrable.

Just install it and the programs written by brighter minds than mine will do their work.

I think that the statement is ,IMHO, not 100% true  - Ascom is pretty simple to install (normal Windows) and there are some very good YouTube stuff  about (not forgetting SGL) - OK the Doc and Video's are out of date a bit but the basic's are all there.   CS is a very helpful guy and is often on this site correcting peoples problems - He is now trying to do some Astro  for himself I believe - long deserved !!  🙂

IMO I dont think that is true and it will do no harm just to down load the extra files manually - you can always remove the files later - they are only data 🙂

Just a heads up on the fantastic work Han is doing on ASTAP for DSLR owners (and other kit) .

ASTAP will run on Linux,Windows , MACOS and Raspberry PI.

ASTAP provides Platesolving,Image Stacking and now Live Stacking (as per Astrotoaster/DSS Live) which is the newest function provided and is still under Beta testing.

ASTAP integrates with CCDCIEL to provide a very flexible tool for EAA and DSLR owners but not limited too!. Biggest plus being able to run different functions on different OS and still work together - e.g. I have my Canon connected via Linux on my OTA but run CCDCIEL on Windows (my mount and Focuser are connected to Linux but accessed from Windows ASCOM over wired ethernet) - note there are many ways ASTAP software can be used including fully integrated into Indi/Ekos - latter being very very new.

Both CCDCIEL and ASTAP produce FIT's type files , while ASTAP will take CR2 (raw images) and convert them on the fly to FIT's !

So the tools and methods available to Astro nuts just keeps getting better 🙂

Thanks Han and Patrick  (ASTAP, CCDCIEL authors)

dont know what I did different but now able to run off MASS power supply - 0-13.5v depending what I choose - plus added open weather to Node-red Astro Dashboard  running on wire RPI3 - recycling at it s best 🙂

Canon 100d and SCT 9.25 works well enough - I do EAA with it so dont collect hrs of data. 100d is smaller and lighter than most and is well supported by the usually software BYEOS,APT and Linux Gphoto (Thats what Ekos/Indi uses in the background for Canon). The Sony mentioned above is far superior IMO but just isn't as well supported. The above was from a moddified 100d but short 30 or 60 secs exposure live real time stack in Astrotoaster .

Wow cowboy - RS232 is not the same as TTL and you say you want to use your mount WITHOUT the synscan controller - do you mean without the handset ?

Most mounts are TTL levels (3.3v or 5v) RS232 is +12v so be careful.

If your want to connect PC directly to your mount (which is ? i) then you are using TTL levels (3.3v or 5v) and you can use the Lynx device from FLO £34 plus delivery.

If you can use a soldering iron then one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-to-TTL-Serial-Cable-FTDI-Genuine-chipset-3-3V-Black/292513285005?epid=1342449592&hash=item441b26838d:g:110AAOxy63FSrs93&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shpCntId  prices shown is £12 + £3 del to Brazil - note if your mount uses 5v then same site have 5v version. Then  just solder together 3 wires (need to check on EQDIR site for mount wiring details) - thats tx,rx,ground to your existing DB9 cable (which I assume is the mount end in your case). Just double/triple check you are using the correct wire. If it works (and it should) you can then use some heat shrink to cover the joins (which you cut and installed ready for the heat before soldering LOL).

Note the above cable is a real FDTI cable not a "clone" hence the extra price but still cheaper than Lynx set up (you could buy a spare 🙂  and still be cheaper).

If you want a cheaper version then CH340G chip set are ok but you can have problems when using more than 1 at a time !

Lots of people on SGL and Cloudynights etc  have done it with no problems!

12 hours ago, Tyson M said:

super accurate GOTO alignment

No other simple way works better or as quickly than using Platesolving - it tells you where you are and nearly (nothing is perfect) always will get to where you wanted to be AND if required dead centre an object in even the smallest FOV.  

Note it only gets you there what, happens next is outside the design of what Platesolve is for!

BUT it does require a computer !

1 hour ago, Howie_Oz said:

Disclaimer .... My fav cams for use as EEVA are actually Canon DSLR's combined with AstroToaster. With 7 years of experience using them, I reckon 4 frames of 15 sec at ISO1600 with your modded Canon 450D would easily get M27 (and have better detail and with nice sharp pinpoint stars) when used with AstroToaster out in the field at night next to the scope. I've done M27 with single 15 second at a dark site using Canon 650d and AstroToaster.

+1 for you comments - i do the same - but dont tell the Indilib crew as they think we are just viewers "playing" (ok a bit hard maybe) at Astronomy and dont seem to understand EAA/EVAA at all IMO 😞 EAA to them seems to be limited to visitor exhibitions use!

Plus a comment was made about why use Astrotaoster at all as "DSS live view is better" ! - would be interested in EAA / DSLR users views on DSS Live View vs Astrotoaster. 

Each to his/his own methods/views but "others" please dont put other methods down (not aimed @Howie_OZ) its all Astronomy 🙂

Han's of ASTAP fame has created a "live view" version/ add on that might be interesting! Runs on Win and Linux I believe ! 

@Howie_Oz - tomorrow hope its a great game! 🙂 

On next camera I go with Howie's comments too but add how about "playing" and learning more with your existing kit!

6 hours ago, Physopto said:

One point about FTDI is that if you do use a different USB socket it can cause problems

this shouldn't happen if its a true FDTI chip (as opposed to a clone) as the real chip and driver have a unique serial number which is recognised after you have installed the driver once. Moving USB sockets should not make any difference as it follows the serial number of he USB device. The same goes for Linux. Thats why you pay extra for a real thing. 🙂

https://stackoverflow.com/questions/13741853/how-to-get-stable-com-ports-for-usb-serial-dongles-in-windows-xp still applies to Win 10

if changing the com port in EQMOD as suggested above (DO NOT USE the search button)  (after checking what the actual com port number is displayed in Device Manager - just in case its changed again) does work look at your cable ends and if using DB9 check for bent or missing pins.

To test the adapter you can download Putty from the web - some virus checkers will complain but you should be able to scan the file - then loop rx/tx pins (harder to do if you mount end is  RJ45 ). you then use Putty to talk to itself (hence the looping of TX/RX). Use connection type "Serial" on putty and this will then allow you to change the Com port to whatever your device number is shown in device manager.  Whatever you type should be shown in Putty's window the adapter is working. If its working wiggle the cable in case you have a bad connection and see if the connection is dropped!

If the later all works this would point to the Mount 😞 or the cable is wrongly wired!.  If it fails have you another PC or a Astro friend to test out your cable and mount in case your PC OS software is corrupt!  

You have't displayed an image of the USB Adapter are you sure its a "real" FDTI and the voltage is the correct level (5v or 3.3v) depending on your mount . Plus I am assuming the Atlas Model(and firmware level) is supported by EQMOD - I think they are supposed to be the same as SW!

On 08/10/2019 at 23:15, Fixoo said:

Found it ! I found a topic about DB9 and Rj45 were someone said that there are crossed and straight wires, one wire communicates one way, the other one is the opposite. So I tried with RXD and TXD inverted, and now it's working great

So with my Orion Atlas EQG and the pinouts found out there, I had to invert RDX and TXD wires to make it works. 

I don't know if it's the same with EQ6 Pro mounts, but it can be so. 

Thank again for your help. 

Its the same on all serial connections - std is to quote std pins - e.g. TX means transmit only , RX means recv only - thats why you have to connect TX - RX and RX - TX. Well nearly all ways -  some only have 1 wire which acts as both TX/RX but thats another story.

Obvious if you know but well done for spotting it 🙂

Its been like this for some +40yrs 🙂

Glad you got sorted. 🙂

1 hour ago, djs44 said:

windows 10 which refuses to reconise the camera (does windows 10 reconise any thing ?

How do you know it works on any machine - have you tried it. Try changing the cable. The is no reason why a working 450D is not recognised if everything is installed correctly. Very doubtful its anything to do with a correctly set up Win 10 O/S.

Do as @kev m suggests. 🙂

8 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

ummm, robocopy can also, continuously monitor folders for new items & copy them to a remote destination,  it doesn't have to run then stop, but can also keep running, waiting for new files to sync, etc.

yep Julian is 100% correct 🙂  suggest others carefully read the doc info first 😉  

13 hours ago, freiform said:

Why not using a more up-to-date, distributed solution like syncthing? It also monitors, syncs across multiple devices, can be run on all relevant operating systems..

"If it aint boke dont fix it"  - Vast options ,well tested software and created ,as I have stated already, created by M/S employee's AND I think he implies Windows's OS by saying RDP and BackyardEOS 🙂

 If we are talking multi OS then you are correct 🙂

But as always the individual chooses what is correct for him/her 🙂