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Thalestris24

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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. Well, I've ordered a variable buck converter from China - should turn up eventually! As I say, it's only to have a play, not for anything serious. Louise
  2. I want to keep it simple and just use dumb electronics. It's purely educational for me as I've never built anything with a peltier before. Also, I mustn't hijack this thread! Louise
  3. I think you're right, Gina! It seemed like a good idea at the time ha ha https://www.meerstetter.ch/compendium/peltier-element-efficiency#DC Edit: I'll have to get a linear controller instead Louise
  4. Of course, it's Chinese New Year so there will be delays for some things... Have ordered a 12V thermostat which looks the same as the one in my 550D. Also ordered a tec1-12706 with uk despatch but I also want a pwm controller which I've not ordered yet. Once upon a time I'd have built the electronics from components on stripboard but can't be bothered now and Chinese prices take away the incentive. I'm not going to be cooling any cameras or sensors - just having a play
  5. I just watched this on youtube and thought it was quite informative without being technical. I think I'll get a tec1 12706 myself and have a play just for fun Louise
  6. I just did a quick test. Powered from my blue DC 1298A 12V LiPo, from an ambient of 16.8 deg it cools to about 2.7 deg in about 5 mins. I don't think the LiPo delivers more than a couple of Amps. The TEC is supposed to cool down to 20 deg below ambient which it probably can with more current. Even from just the battery, the heatsink gets noticeably warm. I imagine it relies on the fan to take the heat away. Mine is a Sunon maglev 12V 1.44W, 60mm. The direction of flow arrow on the fan points inward so it blows ambient/cool air through the heatsink fins. Louise
  7. Perhaps to do with distance of TEC from sensor? I'm not sure your setup looks right (though I'm no expert!). Have a look at Gina's: I would test things without the camera itself being involved. Then, only when everything is cooling as expected, would I connect the cold finger to the camera/sensor. I think my 550d one works fine if powered from just a lithium battery which only supplies maybe 2A. I'll check it now Louise
  8. I think the guy who modded my 550d did something similar. He said "I don't have condensation issues in the sensor filter because I found a way to include a heater just for the optical window of the sensor that maintains it a few degrees above dew point with no impact on sensor cooling efficiency, I also vacuum seal the sensor chamber to keep it dry inside." Even so, he recommended putting the camera in a container with some silica gel after use. Louise
  9. Hiya Dunno if this will help or if you've seen it before anyway: https://nightskyinfocus.com/diyprojects/canon-450d-dslr-modification/ He doesn't do setpoint cooling but claims to get sub-zero temperatures at 30 deg C ambient. He also manages a ~1.8mm thick plate. Not sure if he had any probs with condensation. Louise
  10. What settings (exposure/gain) are you using? What is camera connected to (scope, lens)? Have you tweaked the histogram? Louise
  11. Fingers crossed! Though you should be able to do a lot better in terms of Delta T - I used to run mine at about +4 deg C which was probably about 15 deg below ambient (though it was a few years ago and I'm not certain now) Louise
  12. I'm not certain, but I've seen pictures of the back of the pcb which suggest there is a voltage regulator on that side too. Louise
  13. As I mentioned previously, I didn't do the mod myself so I've no idea really. However, it's a tight soft rubbery insulation. It may have been purchased as flexible insulated copper bar (google it). A synthetic rubber conformal coating might also be a possibility. It's obviously a good idea to thermally insulate the copper as much as possible. Louise
  14. It probably contributes but... Do people who spend a lot of time outside (without uv sunglasses) get cataracts quicker? Must be genetic influences too, I think. I'm sure mine are worsening at a rate parallel to my hair turning grey/white! Ha ha. Oh, I think blue light is believed to damage the retina? I have my monitor set to shift towards the red end of the spectrum after sunset Louise
  15. If facing the SA, with the wedge adjustment nearest you, just turn the black clutch anti-clockwise whilst holding the centre\weight bar in place. Louise
  16. Here's a pic of mine. It shows the copper is insulated with a rubbers sleeve. It carries on inside and only has an opening to allow the connection to the sensor: Louise
  17. Just wondered if you insulate the copper? I imagine you only want it bare where it makes contact at either end? Louise
  18. I have cataracts too - my low light vision is rubbish and any glare is horrid. They don't get better do they... Luckily they don't interfere too much yet. I'm down to see my optician (Specsavers!) annually now instead of the once every two years. When I might get any actual treatment is anybody's guess! Louise
  19. Nah, a cue tip is what you use for playing snooker or pool! Louise
  20. Indeed! Those fiddly zif connectors on the 550d (and most others, I expect) are a pain! Louise
  21. Metal plates over circuits are usually for shielding purposes. It might be worth double checking all the connectors. Louise
  22. Yeah, would be nice to have it working though it won't be as good as the Atik! Louise
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