Thalestris24
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Everything posted by Thalestris24
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It's such a stunning image, Olly, I was wondering if it would be ok to share the linked version with credits to you and Tom? Does it have a formal title? Louise
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Inspiring!
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Yeah, I don't have a coma corrector for mine yet - not even tried it visually at night yet either! Weather looks like being cloudy for another week, at least. I fear February will be write-off just like January was Louise
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Hi They have different names over the pond i.e. BKP 130 DS. This is the site in Canada: http://ca.skywatcher.com/_english/01_products/02_detail.php?sid=336 It's probably better to use a coma corrector - depends how ambitious/fussy you are with your images! There appears to be a Brazilian deler: http://armazemdotelescopio.com.br/loja/index.php/telescopios but doesn't specifically list a 130pds. Maybe they can order one in for you? Louise
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Hi Personally, your proposal doesn't feel right to me. Using the 130pds as a guide scope might work but keeping everything rigid could be a challenge. I'd have thought an oag for the lx200 would be better. Vice versa doesn't sound practical either. However, don't let me put you off getting a 130pds! Louise
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Ok, guys - thanks! I'll have to properly check collimation when I get a minute, anyway. I've had the 150pds for a year now - never looked through it, never adjusted collimation either! I think the 130pds will be easier to collimate as it's that much shorter. Rob - Mine doesn't feel all that light to me but I'm not very strong! For me, it still needs two hands to load it onto the mount (AVX). It'll definitely need extra counterweight, compared to the ST80, once I have a camera and guider on it. Looks like wall-to-wall cloud for the next week or more... Louise
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I just looked again (cloudy twilight) and the dark spot was not apparent, suggesting it's a daylight phenomenon? Louise
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Um, I was focused perfectly on a distant spire (about a mile away). The dark area was like a small fuzzy (very out of focus) blob in the centre of the fov. I could almost ignore it but it was definitely there. As I say, standing away from the eyepiece revealed the secondary and vanes. Maybe my eyesight? Maybe because it was daytime? Louise
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Just tried mine out for the first time and in daytime with the eyepiece and focused on distant objects. It's actually the first time I've looked through a newt! The view was very clear but somewhat disturbed by an out of focus dark spot in the centre of the fov. Standing back from the eyepiece (28mm, 2") it became clear this was the mirror/spider vanes. Is it normal for them to impinge like that? There didn't seem to be anything wrong otherwise. Maybe collimation needed? Louise
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Hi It does actually say that. You can download the smaller indexes if you like and see which ones AT actually use to solve You can download them all if you really want! Louise -
Hi TBH I'm not convinced by the need to base which index files you need on +/- 20% - surely the exact value would do? However, I just copied from the light vortex guide! But it won't do any harm. Having extra index files won't cause a major problem but might increase the time it takes to solve. Think of them like a database containing superfluous records that you will never need or use. As I mentioned previously, you'll be able to monitor which particular index files are being used for your scope/camera combo. It takes a number of different solves to deduce this but once you are confident you know which ones you don't use, you can move the unused ones to a different folder. Once optimised you should be able to solve an image in something like 4-20 secs Once you've solved a particular image you can re-slew, solve again, and your target will be centred You can also solve previously saved images which can be useful. Louise
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Hi By my calcs you need indexes 4209, 4210, 4211, and maybe 4212 based on 1.68 x 1.12 (or 1.34 x 0.89). That's a whopping sensor you have - but tiny pixels! The narrowest fov I calculated was 0.89 deg. Taking 80% of that gives 0.712 deg = 42.72' which falls within index 4209. You don't want to take 20% of it! I have to admit my calcs were based on an f4 scope rather than f3.9 but should still be ok. You don't actually need the -H and -L params in the config line. --objs can be 50. AT sorts the brightest stars in order and can solve on much less than the first 50. The -c parameter allows for pixels to be slightly elongated - it's optional. AT does like images to be fairly well focused. If I recall, AT allows you to 'reinstall' in order to add extra index files. I imagine you'll be imaging at 4800 x 3200? 24MP images sound unwieldy to me - and would only be 1.1"/pixel !! Edit: actually still the same pixel scale for the smaller image size... Exposure times and the --sigma value vary according to conditions. The authors of AT recommend keeping the exposure time as short as possible though occasionally I use 6secs - but only if I have to! Good luck Louise
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Hi again Well done for making progress! I think AT converts raw to jpg before solving which takes time. With APT and Canon 1100d I have the camera set to download raw + jpg. Not sure if you can do that with Nikon/BYN? As mentioned before, you can monitor what AT is doing by selecting log viewer. Louise
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Hiya One of the tricks of using AT is to optimise the index files. You clearly don't need all of them. You can use the Log viewer (Tools menu) to see which ones you are using. I believe this can vary somewhat with different parts of the sky. Once you've deduced which ones you need you can put the rest in a separate folder. It will then solve quicker Sometimes you have to adjust exposure and the --sigma value according to sky conditions. For me, exposure can vary from 2 to 6s with a dslr. I start sigma at 30 e.g. --sigma 30 --no-plots -N none -r --objs 75 -c 0.02 , but if it seems to find more stars than expected and doesn't solve ie, picks up noise, I increase sigma to 70 or even 100 and increase exposure. But I live in a light-polluted city so your mileage will be different. Happy plate solving! Louise
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Hiya Honestly, I can't remember! I think it was straightforward to get going. Selected Ascom.Celestron.Telescope. Use JNOW. You have to let it update Stellarium configuration. Obviously, in Stellarium itself, you have to tell it that telescope control is external. Hth Louise
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Hi You could be right! Hope you can get up and running! I'd be lost without AT! Louise
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Hi Are you running the Ascom platform etc? What other software do you have? With my AVX I have Ascom, Celestron drivers, Stellarium Scope, Stellarium, APT, PHD2 and AT. Louise
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Ah, I see! Still, I'm not bothered about sticking some Velcro to the tube itself. At the mo, it's still in the box! I'll definitely get it out tomorrow! As you suggested previously, it looks like there'll be little chance of actually trying it out this month Louise
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Oh ok. I have some Velcro though it's of the heavy duty type - the stick-on is really hard to get off! Insulation tape is easy enough to remove. It's, um, just a metal tube! As long as it's functional, I don't much care! I've left the scope in the box in my bedroom this afternoon - too cold for messing about in there. Will have a go with it tomorrow Louise
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Hi Rob Well I did say a while ago I was thinking of getting one . It's actually not that much smaller than my 150pds - unsurprisingly! I'll probably only be putting a dslr on - plus maybe a filter wheel and definitely the autofocuser, of course. I actually do have some ankle weights though they are 1kg ones. I don't see an easy way of fitting one to the tube except by maybe using tape? Louise
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I just joined the club! Have taken delivery of a 130pds Looking forward to first light - whenever that will be! Have to set it up on the AVX first of course - at least I can do that during the day
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Cheers Martin - I think I'll definitely get one then! I'm still writing the software for my diy usb autofocuser and it deserves something better than the ST-80! Louise
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Hi all Anyone know if you can attach a Skywatcher autofocuser motor (or other autofocuser) to the 130pds? Thanks Louise
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Based on this thread I wholeheartedly agree, Olly! It's certainly very good value for money!! I've had my 150pds for nearly a year now - still not had to collimate it! I probably should have got the 130pds - in fact, they are so cheap I might yet get one anyway Of course, it helps to like diffraction spikes Louise
