tooth_dr

Keeping your Atik in the attic 🤪😂

Would either of you mind drawing in on the diagram where I need to attach the ends to so I don’t inadvertently blow something.

Really really nice job Ciarán. You had been awfully quiet for a while there so I knew something spectacular was on the cards 🤪 A great idea using the 50mm lens to do one large single panel in oiii and Sii and get the detail in 9 panels in Ha. I’ve imaged a few areas in Cygnus with my QHY9/180mm lens/ha and there is just so much going on in every frame.

A starless Ha version of IC410 using the Tak, 5.25 hours. Stars removed using Starnet+ I havent done much processing to this, but thought it was really decent for 5 hours with the full moon and 7nm filter at F2.8. 900s exposures.

Thanks for the reply. If this is something I can do, then it would make sense to do it. Can you explain how I would be able to add this to the circuitry?

Thanks for your input Steve and offer of help. Thanks Alan. I’m glad that it’s survived the extra voltage, but what you say above explains why it did.

Thanks again. Didn’t realise that, will be careful 👍🏻

It got good repeated doses of 12v too 😂 What sort of heat sink do you suggest? I’m sure I can fit it ok anyway as a preventive measure.

So.... I soldered back in the original relays and fitted a new voltage regulator which I picked up this afternoon off a friend. lol and behold it’s alive 🤷 I honestly can’t believe it. I have to say a massive thanks to everyone in this thread who provided input, insight and solutions. Without this help I would genuinely still be manually pulling the shutter up and down balancing on a wobbly stool. I have a feeling that I may end up back in here again if the system fails again but at least I now have some idea of where to go and hopefully this thread proves useful anyone else with similar problems. Adam. IMG_5243.MOV IMG_5248.MOV

@symmetal Alan thank you so much for this diagram, quite impressive So if I understand what has happened here: 1) initially shutter stopped working due to 'unknown' reasons 2) my 'testing' caused a short and burnt out a track on the board, which may or may not have damaged relays etc. 3) subsequent replacement of capacitors and relays has made no difference, and the fault was eventually traced to a failed voltage regulator 4) the voltage regulator failed allowing 12v through to the microchip, and subsequently destroyed it - which explains why it initially stopped working 5) replacement of voltage regulator is pointless due to the damage that has been done already to the PIC microchip? Options 1) find a replacement PIC microchip - but I cant just buy one of these because it needs programmed, is that right? 2) build another circuit to control the shutter - @steppenwolf I think this is where your board comes in? I'm trying to work out what is going on overall with the shutter and dome rotation system - have i got this right? --The CEBEK TL-2 board, a readily available manufactured board, receives a bluetooth signal from the dome rotation controller system (in my case Shelyak) activated via POTH on the PC. Depending on whether I click open or close shutter on POTH, a different part of the CEBEK TL-2 circuit activates and this send a voltage via a wire to the failed board (the board that has failed). The failed board is solely concerned with controlling the shutter motor, and simply receives a trigger via the CEBEK TL-2 board. The failed board also appears to be able to control the shutter via a rocker switch - so this would be another trigger - albeit a manual one. Would I be able to implement this manual control feature as well if I make another board (or is that even necessary - but possible useful in the event of a power failure or PC fault and needing to close the roof). Thanks for all the input guys, really really incredible.

I never checked either!

Ah that’s annoying. I just bought the ones linked on page 1 and never checked.

Asking my friend if he has one to try out, I hope this works 👍🏼

Ok there is 12v going through the input and output pin of the voltage reducer. How much harm will this have done?

I can see the voltage regulator 7805. I have used something similar when I made a 12v -> 8v adapter for my canon.

There is 12v getting to the banded end of the diode.

@DaveL59 I checked the capacitor labelled putting the multimeter across the legs, there is no voltage 0.00

Hi Alan Are these ok? Thank you for helping me. Adam

Thanks Steve, sorry I misunderstood, I thought this was available and there were more then one ! I will pursue fixing mine for a little more time, and after I’ve exhausted that I’ll get in touch and go from there. I appreciate you sharing your hard work and expertise.

That’s great news Steve. If I wanted to buy this off you how would I go about it ?

Dave I will check this shortly and get back to you 👍🏻👍🏻

I am just really getting to know my way around the (sort of ) widefield set up - I took a few subs last night, and stacked them. I need to gather calibration data later, but I'll have to do this at night, and reprocess the data. Pretty amazing amount of Ha nebulosity around the tadpoles and flaming star nebula. I have just also worked out how to control a second PC with PHD2/dithering via APT (using IP address) so it means I wont have to take short subs to get around dithering loss. I lost 33% of my subs last night on this camera setup - I was taking 15 minutes dithered subs on the other kit, so I just did 5 minute subs on this one. CC welcome Adam.

Thanks @steppenwolf Ive attached photos of the Bluetooth board and the connectors on the burnt board. I didn’t realise Rigel wasn’t a company, but that explains it.

Dave - I'll work through any questions you asked as I may have missed one. This resistor has a reading of 1.02k ohm, and the other resistor on the board with the same bands is reading the same value. I tested both the removed relays. The one marked 298 (closest to fuse) is giving a continuity reading between pins 1 and 4 only. The other relay marked 093 is also giving the same reading, with continuity between 1 and 4. This is the same as the new relays, and appears to be consistent with the diagram you have posted. I emailed Pulsar who supplied it - they no longer have any spares, and cant offer a repair, and the new shutter system they sell isnt compatible with my rotation system, so I'm looking at £2600 basically to buy new. Bit of a dead end there. Currently trying to locate the company Rigel

The fuse is actually ok, again tested with multimeter. I was surprised it didn’t blow as well.