tekkydave

I think it's 32-bit but it should work fine on a 64-bit o/s.

Makes good sense. My system comprises 2 RPis; The outside RPi connects to the 1-wire sensors. It runs an owserver process that the indoor RPi connects to. Connects to household LAN via WiFi. It can be an RPi model B as it is not doing much processing. The indoor RPi logs readings to the mySQL database. Also runs the web site and other processes e.g. Weather Underground upload. Connected via ethernet to household LAN. This is an RPi 3B+ as it is doing much more work.

1-wire. Built for it.

Similar reasons here. I already had the 1-wire sensors, wind vane and Sheepwalk interface for the RPi so it was a no-brainer. Plus I wanted to program in Java and use a database on the indoor RPi. I started with sqlite but have now switched to mySQL as I have multiple clients accessing the db and sqlite will not handle it.

I suppose I'm lucky that my RPi-based weather station is close enough to the house to connect to the WiFi ?

The Duet uses TMC2660's but I don't know how much they cost to buy. There maybe cheaper ones by TMC that do 256x.

Could you use a stepper driver with a 256x microstepping mode? That would give you another 16:1 to use.

I think that's due to insufficient part-cooling. Also when the layers are that small they dont set solid before the next one causing the deformation. If you are using Slic3r look at the cooling options. You can make it slow down on small/short layers.

Duet say the cooling should be from the rear of the board but none of the components on my board get more than slightly warm to the touch.

My board cooling fan is an 80mm PC type fan and is always on. it's so quiet I have to look at it to check it is running. It's one of These

Yes - lithium grease. You only need the tiniest amount.

That's the way I do it to get the z carriage level. I have extra adjusters on the corners of the heated bed for fine adjustment of the bed itself.

Further to adding the RPi3 to run the cameras I have designed and printed an enclosure for the Pi camera I have. It is designed to fit into the base I was already using for the webcam. The camera is one I bought on ebay a while back and comes with a removeable lens in a 12mm mounting. The ribbon cable exits at the side to avoid the mounting so the camera is rotated 90 degrees. I have corrected for this by setting custom sizes and a rotation in the software

I've used the tracking number to redirect them to my address - I fancy some new ones

Will the 2 wheels be able to keep the XY frame constrained in the Y-plane. I wouldn't rely on the leadscrews to constrain the bed.

Are the wheels just on one side of the v-slot. Mine are on both (3-wheeled) so stop it moving in either X or Y. I wouldn't rely on the screws to constrain the movement, just move it up & down.

Will the XY frame be constrained in the X-Y plane purely by the wheels in the 4 corners? If so you may get binding issues with the screws unless the XY frame is free to float on them. I had issues with my D-Bot when I had wheels in all 4 corners and 3 screws. I eventually removed the wheels at the front as the rear wheels were providing sufficient constraint in the X-Y plane. The screws were then purely moving the bed up/down and keeping it in the same plane. Maybe I have misunderstood your design.

Got round to fitting the Raspberry Pi3 into the control enclosure. I'm using MotionEye OS to control multiple cameras. There is an excellent tutorial here. It suggests using an RPi Zero which is ok for one PiCam but slows down a lot with a USB camera plugged in aswell. I have a standard PiCam plugged into the Pi3 and a cheap webcam in one of the USB ports. The PiCam will be used to monitor the print bed and the other will have a wider viewpoint. I would like to be able to see the spool to check it is moving. I have fitted a buck converter to the lid to step the incoming 12v down to 5v for the Pi.

I got it from Makers Hut on ebay they have GT2 6mm up to 1524mm. I used a 1350mm for mine.

The same seller does longer lengths - even 1000mm.

This is the one. I bought 3.

Recommend getting single-start screws for resolution. Also stops any back-driving causing bed to sag. Also recommend using 3 screws to give a stable z axis.

Designed and printed a better, more robust enclosure for the mains in/out and SSR. This keeps all the 240V separate from the low voltage electronics. It houses an IEC switched & fused inlet, IEC outlet to the 24V PSU, the DC/AC SSR and the heated bed outlet (Powercon). The only low-voltage is the heated bed control from the Duet, via a 12mm flexible conduit from the Duet Control Box.

Some recent upgrades: 1. I printed some better bed supports with adjustment wheels. It's much easier to get the bed levelled. The design was from Thingiverse. 2. Upgraded my Precision Piezo probe from the PP20 to the latest Orion model. It is much improved in terms of construction and accuracy.

Great research. When I started using PETG I had lots of issues with stringing. This was using a direct extruder too so not a Bowden issue. I found that tuning slicer parameters to minimise retractions got rid of almost all stringing. I found the best infill pattern was concentric as it drastically reduces the number of retractions followed by a move. I stopped using honeycomb when I had my Prusa. It would almost shake itself to bits unless going very slow.