tekkydave

Here is a good tutorial on using a Raspberry Pi and MotionEyeOS to control a webcam and integrate it into the Duet web interface. It describes using a Pi Zero which I tested and it's adequate with a Raspi cam and takes up littlemspace. I plan to use a Pi3 so I can attach multiple cameras. E.g. one watching the bed, one on the spool. Only one will be visible via the Duet but the Pi has its own web interface for monitoring all the attached cameras.

I used these spacers from Ooznest (Pick the 6mm ones) http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-Mechanical-Parts/Fixings-Spacers/Aluminium-Spacer with one of these http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-Mechanical-Parts/Fixings-Spacers/Mini-V-Precision-Shim against the bearing. This gives an overall spacing of 7mm. It's important to place the shim in contact with the bearing. If you place the spacer in contact it will stop the bearing rotating when tightened. If you bought the mini-v-wheels as a kit you will have received a couple of the shims with each wheel. One goes between the two bearings, the other one is spare and can be put with one of the spacers. Don't use washers as a cheap alternative as they are not the correct dimensions and also stop the bearings rotating when tightened. Hope that helps

According to The Duet Wiki the extruder heaters are 5A each. I'm using a 60W heater at 24V which is 2.5A. The bed heater is 18A.

Designed and printed some brackets for the 24v PSU.

It sounds sensible to me to remove as much weight as possible from the moving bits

Done. The wiring's a bit tight inside so I might reprint it slightly longer for more space. Also, I think it needs some screws in the sides as it curently relies on engaging into the slots either side of the PSU. The control on top is a 200 ohm 5w wirewound pot in series with the internal fan. It cuts down the noise a lot, especially as I'm only using a few Amps. It doesnt get warm even with the fan turned right down. I've also made up a mini distribution strip for the 12v supply. The sockets are (L to R) 12v in, enclosure fan, 2x spare outputs, LED feed. Not sure where I will fix it inside the enclosure yet.

Printed a cover for my 24V PSU. The IEC inlet gets a feed of mains power from the main power switch. The 4-pole powercon connector supplies the 24V and 12V feeds back to the Duet enclosure. The buck converter does the 24V to 12V step-down. The sensorless endstops seem to be proving very reliable so far.

I want to set it up to log stalls on the extruder motor as well.

I'm only using it for homing so repeatability not an issue. It would be if I was re-homing mid print. I'm testing it at the moment so may put the microswitches back if it proves unreliable. I've had issues in the past with microswitches failing over time so swings and roundabouts really.

I've been experimenting with sensorless homing for the X and Y axes. The drivers in the Duet (TMC2660) are able to detect motor stalls and these can be used to trigger an endstop signal. Note that this only works on RRF V1.20 or above. In config.g add: M574 X1 Y2 S3 ; X1 = X-axis at xmin, Y2 = Y-axis at ymax, S3 = set endstops to use motor stall M915 X Y S5 R0 ; Configure X Y motor stall detection. S5 = set sensitivity to +5, R0 = no action on stall the M574 replaces the existing one for your X & Y endstops. Depending on your machine and setup you may need a separate M574 for your Z axis, or you may have an M558 instead for a Z-Probe. I updated each of my homing files as follows: homex.g M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes M913 X50 ; drop motor currents to 50% G91 ; use relative positioning G1 Z5 F180 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 X20 F3600 ; move X away from endstop G4 P250 ; Pause for 250mS G1 S1 X-320 F3600 ; move quickly to X endstop and stop there G1 X20 F3600 ; move X away from endstop M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes G90 ; absolute positioning M913 X100 ; reset motor currents to 100% homey.g M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes M913 Y50 ; drop motor currents to 50% G91 ; use relative positioning G1 Z5 F180 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 Y-20 F3600 ; move Y away from endstop G4 P250 ; Pause for 250mS G1 S1 Y320 F3600 ; move quickly to Y endstop and stop there G1 Y-20 F3600 ; move Y away from endstop M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes G90 ; absolute positioning M913 Y100 ; reset motor currents to 100% homeall.g ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ; X and Y Homing ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes M913 X50 Y50 ; drop motor currents to 50% G91 ; use relative positioning G1 Z5 F180 ; lift Z relative to current position G1 X20 Y-20 F3600 ; move X and Y away from endstops G4 P250 ; Pause for 250mS G1 S1 X-320 F3600 ; move quickly to X endstop and stop there G1 X20 F3600 ; move X away from endstop G4 P250 ; Pause for 250mS G1 S1 Y320 F3600 ; move quickly to Y endstop and stop there G1 Y-20 F3600 ; move Y away from endstop M400 ; make sure everything has stopped before we make changes G90 ; absolute positioning M913 X100 Y100 ; reset motor currents to 100% ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ; Z Homing ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ G1 X150 Y140 F6000 ; go to centre of bed G30 ; home Z by probing the bed G1 Z5 F180 ; uncomment this line to lift the nozzle after homing ;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I have disconnected & removed my X & Y endstop micro-switches and I'll see how reliable this proves. Not sure it adds anything apart from reducing the wiring a bit.

Printed the front panel. The slot is wide enough to allow a micro-usb plug to be inserted. Next to print the lid....

I have now printed and fitted an enclosure for the Duet. All the wires have been shortened to the correct lengths and properly crimped or joined. I designed the enclosure to be big enough for the Duet and a Pi3 if required. The sides, rear and top panels and front panel are all separate. This will allow me to customise or enlarge without having to reprint the whole enclosure. All the wires to the x carriage are via the chain which has its enclosing spring-clips fitted. I am in the process of redesigning the Power & SSR enclosure, below the Duet enclosure. I want to fit a Powercon connector to allow the bed heater to be unplugged if required. Also I want to have a conduit linking to the Duet enclosure for the SSR control cable. I also need a cover for the 24V/15A PSU with inlet for the switched mains supply coming from the Power/SSR module. It will also contain a buck converter to generate a 12V supply. Initially I need 12v for the LED strip and the 80mm case fan that will be in the Duet enclosure lid.

Today I installed a white LED strip as per the original D-Bot design. As it is a 12V strip I supplied it from a buck converter. Also visible is the cable drag chain I printed from a design on Thingiverse. I made sure the cut end was well insulated with a piece of heat-shrink. By connecting the -ve side of the LED strip to the -ve pin on FAN2 on the Duet I can use the M106 g-code to control the brightness. This works as the Duet Fan Mosfets switch the load to ground. The buck converter ground is common to the Duet's ground completing the circuit.

Are you printing with a brim? I tend to have a 5 to 8mm brim on everything these days - stops any curling.

I think some changes need a reboot to take effect. Also config.g only gets executed once at boot time. Doesn't explain your issue or why it fixed itself though

See the Prologue and communications section on this page https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer M551 is the gcode you are looking for.

It will be in your config.g somewhere.

Are you talking hotend or bed thermistor? I was having difficulty trying to get an accurate hotend temperature with the old style heater blocks so I got a new style one with the thermistor cartridge. Most of the silicon heater thermistors are the Marlin type 75. In Duet terms this gives: M305 P0 T100000 B3950 C0 R4700 Duet uses the thermistor parameters (beta etc) directly whereas Marlin uses a table which has been pre-generated from the same parameters.

I'll have a closer look at mine next time I have it apart - maybe it does have small bearings in there that I just didnt notice.

I think my Titan is a newer model (purchased Feb 2017) without proper bearings. The hob wheel shafts appear to be just sitting on bushings. I think thats why they tell you not to tighten the top right screw. I never noticed any lubricant on it when I first got it.

I'm pretty sure my Titan doesn't have this issue but I've sent in a request for a replacement anyway - just in case I always put a tiny amount of silicon grease on the front & rear bearings of the extruder hob whenever I have it apart.

When you get a fault sometimes there is more info on the Gcode Console page.

Hover the mouse over the boxes and it explains what to use them for. I have mine in the Printer Settings.

Its 48mm high

Test Benchy. PLA at 215C, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle